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MSA type II body kit installation help needed:


Marty50

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When I received the kit I was surprised that the panels were so thin. I have seen pictures of really cool looking cars with this body kit, so I am sure that there are proper materials and procedures to successfully install this kit.

 

I hope that some of you that have successfully installed this kit would have the patience to share what materials you used and recommendations for installing the kit.

 

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Front bumper/air dam.

I am thinking that I need to rivet some aluminum sheet to the air dam bottom flange and brace it to the radiator support.

 

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Prep for rear bumper.

 

 

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What kind of filler material should be used so after it is painted it will not crack?

 

 

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I expected to see better fit?

 

 

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What is the recommend procedure for making that panel lay flat against the fender and secure it so that it does not warp and crack the paint?

 

 

This section of the panel appears to be slightly long. If it is pulled to the rear of the car it interferes with the front of the door opening. Suggestions??

 

 

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The side skirt panel between the right front door and the fender well is so severely warped that it does not appear that it can be forced against the fender without cracking it. Even if I was able to apply enough pressure to force it against the fender, what type of fastening system should be used to permanently attach it to the fender?

 

 

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The kit was packaged very well and the box was in very good condition when it arrived. The 2 pictures above show some of the defects that we found after we removed the bubble wrap. ??

 

Suggestions and advice will be appreciated.

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Been there done that. My front was not that bad I just bolted it on and pop riveted it to the fender lip. The rear was as bad as yours. I had to grind some areas to get the best fit I could. Still had a lot of large gaps. I soaked fiberglass in resin and packed it in on the under side. It is messy and not fun. I filled the top with body filler. Use the flexible kind or it will crack. The side were not fun either. Had to rework the area where it rolls under the door for clearance. I used double backed tape used for putting trim on new cars. You can get it at auto paint stores. I used small flat head screws and the tape and the body filler to blend in.

 

I am not a body man, but I did get them to work. It just takes time.

 

Heck my car is a driver and not a show piece and at 60 mph on the road it looks OK.

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Oh, didnt notice the last few pics. I would have called MSA, they would have sent a new one and paid for return shipping. THey are really good with that.

 

I have not been able to find contact information for MSA. Can you point me to a web page or phone #?

 

Thanks

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All fiberglass kits have these problems. They all require fitment. This is not something that a first timer can do easily. Most of these kits can be a PITA. Your best option is to find a strong bonding agent. I used a product called MarineTex. This stuff is used to repair fiberglass boats. It is very strong. You may also need to use C-clamps and dry wall screws to hold panels in place while the adheisive is drying. The hole can be filled with body filler. Make sure the shinny finish is scuffed well befor painting.

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Thanks for the advice. I'll get some MarineTex. Did you use the gray or white? Slightly different formulation.

 

Sounds like you have done this. Any advice on blending technique?

 

 

 

All fiberglass kits have these problems. They all require fitment. This is not something that a first timer can do easily. Most of these kits can be a PITA. Your best option is to find a strong bonding agent. I used a product called MarineTex. This stuff is used to repair fiberglass boats. It is very strong. You may also need to use C-clamps and dry wall screws to hold panels in place while the adheisive is drying. The hole can be filled with body filler. Make sure the shinny finish is scuffed well befor painting.
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