will c Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Well I picked of this 1972 240 with a 4 speed. First off I got it for free and second it hasnt been run if five years. So what should I Check? What would be the best manual to get for working on this engine? I know fresh gas is a must but what else? I went to press the throttle and it was stuck so after looking at the linkage I found the shafts were seized in the carbs! after spraying with PB I was able to free things up a little. thanks for any help, will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Chiltons is helpful, you can usually get it locally. If it comes to it they have a "how to rebuild your L series" book. That one and "how to modify your L series" are in the mail for me right now.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 I prefer the Haynes manual for working on a 240Z. If you have a 280 it isn't as helpful, because ALL of the "280 stuff" was lumped into one chapter at the end. Make sure the choke cables work freely, make sure you put in new NGK regular old BPR 6ES-11s, make sure the carbs are topped off with oil (not joking)and change the oil and filter. After that, throw a battery in, see what kinda shape the electricals are in, fill up the tires, get her to roll, and find out what the brake hydraulics are like. Chances are at least 50/50 you'll need new hydraulics, but if its still full of fluid then you may be fine.. I just resurrected a 72 and wound up blocking off the rear brakes (not recommended, and more complex than it sounds, if you MUST you can ask me about this via PM) but got the master and the fronts to work OK simply thru disassembly and refill. The car never really saw the road, but it COULD now. (this car has major rust issues; its a parts car i was debating throwing together for a DD for a coupla months.) Okay, air in the tires, good sparks, you already gave it good gas, and now, the vehicle can be stopped. Your throttle linkage and your choke cables work adequately. The battery hasn't started a fire yet, so lets REALLY give it a chance by mixing battery and fuel! Turn the key and see if she starts. Sometimes you need to get a little starting fluid to spray into the carbs so the engine turns over enough to really prime them with fuel. If it starts on starter fluid but no other way, check for fuel. If it won't start with starter fluid, check the QUALITY of the spark coming out. Should be blue; yellow or white aren't acceptable. Consult manual for further direction on this front. If it starts up, and runs rough, chances are you need to adjust the carbs.. BUT first, buy a set of feeler gauges, pull the valve cover, and set the valve lash. Consult manual for direction. Then, start dickering with the carbs. Yeah, that was alot of info.. but I should have you covered. Resurrecting a Z-car... its whats for dinner!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will c Posted December 5, 2008 Author Share Posted December 5, 2008 So I decided to put air in the tires the front went right up to 30 no prob then I went to the rear and right about 22psi it blew up in my face! It scared the S&*T out of me but aside from my ears ringing for an hour or so I was okay. So what kind of oil should be used in the carbs? I am assuming I fill it up through the black knobs on top? Last night I found a folder of old service records (previous owner was the original) In the top of the pile was the receipt for a complete tune up including vavle adjustment, carb sync, cap, rotor, plugs, points, wires, and oil change. Along with replacing radiator, hoses and thermostat. And according to the service record this was also done about a 1000milxse ago but then it sat. They lady that gave it to me said she had a new motor put in it about 10 years ago. thanks or the help and I will keep you updated! will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blue72 Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 The oil in the carb tops was originally 20 weight, but many people run thinner ATF as well. Different weights of oil will change the speed at which the piston inside rises and falls. You don't need very much oil, but make sure they're filled to the same level on each one. I just fill the cap on the oil bottle and dump that in. Google Hitachi SU carbs if you want to learn more about how they operate. You might not have to worry about the carbs being synched seeing as that was done not too many miles ago, but it might be a good idea to buy a synching tool for the future. I'd check for cracked and rotted hoses all over. Check both of the radiator hoses, heater hoses, fuel lines and vacuum lines just in case. Make sure you've got coolant in the radiator, and it might be a good idea to drain and refill depending on the age of the coolant and radiator. It is doubtful that anyone bothered to drain the carb floats before storage, so there might still be varnish left over from the old gas inside the lines or carburettors. You might search the forums here for discussions on Marvel Mystery Oil and Seafoam products being used to help free up/degum motors that have been abandoned for a while. Oh, and one thing I have seen crop up, including on my '72 which hadn't run in years when I bought it, is the fuel pump. The diaphram in the mechanical pump wears out or cracks after a while and you won't be getting fuel to the carbs. Make sure you've got a good battery with charge and check operation of all the electric items like lights, horn, fan motor and wipers. Check the fuse box in the center console for blown fuses. Another handy book to have around would be the "How to Restore Your Datsun Z Car" Lots of good info on rebuilding/refinishing various peices and parts. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soundmasterg Posted December 5, 2008 Share Posted December 5, 2008 Make sure the engine turns over by hand before you try to do it with the starter. I'd spray some oil in the spark plug holes and let it sit for a little while, then turn it over by hand and make sure you can do a complete revolution. Other than that and what everyone else said, you should be covered. My '72 sat for 20 years and ran and drove when it was parked. I put some oil in the cylinders, let it sit while I adjusted the valves, and did a complete tune up, then turned the engine over by hand with no problems. Then I put a battery in, drained the gas and put new gas in, sprayed starter fluid in the carbs, and started cranking. It took a coupl eminutes and belched out some really black exhaust, but it fired up and ran ok. I had to overhaul the carbs, which were VERY carboned up and dirty, and I had to replace the fuse block, the alternator, the starter, the clutch master, the clutch slave, the brake master and all the calipers, I swapped to disc brakes in the rear, and it runs and drives quite well. It leaks oil from the front and rear main and the pan gasket pretty badly, but those will be replaced soon when I upgrade to a 5 speed T5. So you get an idea of the type of things that might need to be done to yours, though since it wasn't sitting as long as mine, you may get away easier. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted December 6, 2008 Share Posted December 6, 2008 Hey mods... This thread has turned into a decent example of what to do to a new to me Z that has been sitting for a number of years. It *might* behoove to move it to the S30 forum and make it a sticky??? Of course, if it is deemed too "pedestrian" to be worthy of sticky status here on tech-savvy HybridZ I can dig. To the rest of the HybridZ public: keep the tips and experiences coming! This is the sort of thread that helps SOOO MANY people, but isn't always easy to find. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will c Posted December 7, 2008 Author Share Posted December 7, 2008 well with all your advice and expertise she is RUNNING! and pretty good to! The exhaust is all rusted out but it runs good. I ended up having to replace all rubber fuel lines including those at the tank, and the heater hoses. I took it around the block a few times but it needs registration. The brakes feel good but Im gonna bleed and flush the system b4 I drive it any further. thanks for all the help and great ideas on things to do before firing it up. will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
silverarrow27 Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 This is what I just needed even though I won't even mess with the mechanicals until January. Good information though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will c Posted December 9, 2008 Author Share Posted December 9, 2008 Well After flushing the entire brake system and changing all fluids I took it for a ride. Man even without a 415" stroker motor like im used to in one of these cars its still a blast to drive! I need to get a new Collector/ Y pipe is it best to get one fron a junk yard or have it custom made? thanks, will Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zuperair Posted December 9, 2008 Share Posted December 9, 2008 I'd say junk yard for sure, if you can find one. Is the 240 collector the same as the 280??? If so, I've got one I'd just give you for shipping costs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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