OK I'M P!$$&D...

[Guest KraZ4spd]

I have tried everything to get the rear wheel bearing lock nut off and I've decided to use the sawzall. I'm going to cut the flange off and then use a grinder to get at the nut. I dont need the rear axel shaft because I'm going with the CV conversion that Ross was selling a while back.

I've tried breaker bar, standing on tire with impact wrench, and I've had enough after trying for 1.5 hrs. yesterday.

Anybody have any advice?

[Guest Anonymous]

Grind off the small ridge that has the part hammered into the flat spot of the stub, then heat, more heat, big vise long breaker bar. I have found that a breaker bar while the strut housing is still on the car with the e-break applied and the wheel on the ground is effective. They can be a PIA. Good luck!

[johnc]

Use a die grinder to remove the peened over flats. Then soak the threads with Kroil, Liquid Wrench, or some other penetrant. Crank up your air regulator and start hammering away with the impact wrench. Heat also helps.

[gramercyjam]

Just dealt with the same problem this weekend.

 

What I did was: with the rear end jacked up and jack stands under the body, wheels removed - bolt the flat end of a 6 ft long, 1" diameter steel digging bar or simlar (its like a long pry bar. They are pretty common down here in South Texas due to the rocky soil) between the axel and a wheel spacer. Let the other end of the bar rest on the ground so the axel can't turn.

 

Went down to autozone and got a 24" long 3/4 in. breaker bar. If you break it, they will take it back if you have the receipt.

 

Put the breaker bar on the axel nut, use a hydraulic jack (like the one you use to jack up your car) to push up on the handle breaker bar. I guarantee the nut will come loose.

 

John B

[Pop N Wood]

What you are saying will probably do the job, just be careful because chances are the jack will lift the car off the jack stands before the nut breaks free. Just make sure this doesn't cause the car to bounce off the jack stands. I once put a jack stand through a gas tank doing something similar.

 

Another option would be to do just what you are saying, but instead of using a jack to lift, put a long extension on the breaker bar and stand on that bad boy. At the same time tap on the nut/socket while you are applying torque. The vibration is most helpful to start things moving.

[Guest KraZ4spd]

Here's the biggst catch.. I dropped the whole rear end out of the car at once.

[Pop N Wood]

Not a big deal (I think). Strap the bad boy to a tree or fence post or clamp it in a good vice. Worst case put it back into the car. The whole goal is to get sufficient LEVERAGE. This translates to LONG cheater bars. If you can somehow immobilize the axel shaft by wedging in a breaker bar like gramercyjam said, then get a long enough extension on the nut socket (like slipping a 6 foot piece of pipe over the socket handle), SOMETHING will give. If you can position the breaker bar and the socket handle so they are only 30 degrees or so apart, you can squeeze them together like the handles on a pair of scissors.

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

Originally posted by Nemeziz:

Here's the biggst catch.. I dropped the whole rear end out of the car at once.

Nemeziz, if you have it all removed from your car and don't have tools to allow you to remove the 'peened' portion of the nut then you may want to take it to a local garage with a big impact....you have to remove that peened portion first (highly recommended anyhow).

 

FWIW, I supply the 280ZXT stub nuts for the reinstall which are a pinched style that requires no peening and is thus a relatively easy re and re fastener.

 

Good luck!

[Guest KraZ4spd]

I have already ground off the pinched part of the nut and it still won't budge. The only reason that I'm trying to get the #%^( thing off is to replace the stub axels I got from You for the CV conversion. That's why I'm thinking SAWZALL!!!

I don't need the stubs any more .