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Preparing for the Magnacharged LQ4 install - what am I missing?


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Okay, here's what's going on. This weekend I'll be pulling the entire drivetrain out of my Widebody project. The GM at my dealership has given me permission to use the shop for this weekend only, as long as the car isn't stuck in a stall during business hours. I can roll it out, that's no big deal. Installing the new drivetrain will be fun, as I need to do it as quickly as possible (on another weekend that he authorizes). I've installed an old-school sbc, but not the new generation yet, so I'm trying to make an accurate checklist so I can have all the parts ready to at least install it all in one weekend...it doesn't have to be running, but it would be nice.

 

Drivetrain will be a magnacharged LQ4, T56, and R230 rear end.

 

LQ4:

 

-I will use the factory PCM and wiring harness...shouldn't be that hard, right? The engine will be a turnkey. For the most part, it'll be staying stock, but I may throw in a blower cam for starters. I thought about L92 heads, but I don't know if they'll work with the magnacharger (which is an Mp122, btw). I guess I'll find out how durable the stock bottom end is...I may install ARP rod bolts, but that would be all.

 

-Anyways, for the fuel system I'm going to weld a couple of AN fittings on the factory tank. I'll run a 1/2" feed and 3/8" return SS braided line. Aeromotive A1000 fuel pump and pressure regulator. I plan to use this fitting to connect the fuel lines to the factory rail.

 

-I'll be installing a Griffin radiator, and I have an electric fan off a Jeep, and another off a Lincoln LS, so I should be able to figure something out.

 

-Of course I'll be ordering the JCI mounts...and I won't be running a/c or p/s (at first). If I have to relocate the alternator, it shouldn't be that hard. I'll need to order an F-body oil pan, pickup, dipstick tube, etc. I believe I'll be running the LS7 clutch and flywheel.

 

-I also have a throttle cable ready to go. Autometer phantom gauges will be monitoring everything.

 

T56:

 

-I'm debating between a stock T56 or the D&D unit: http://www.ddperformance.com/T-56%20Transmissions.htm . I need to do some more research on the torque limits of the stock t56, but I'm leaning towards the D&D. Tilton clutch m/c, Russel SS braided line and adapter will be ordered.

 

R230: I'm pretty sure I'm ready to throw that one in.

 

So, if you're still reading this post, do you see anything else I need to add to the list? Again, I need to try to get everything installed in one weekend, so that's going to be the biggest thing.

 

-Can L92 heads be used with the maggie?

 

-Will the stock tank be able to work well enough with the Aeromotive pump to support my setup (guessing at least 600rwhp)? I plan on running side exhaust, so if I can get away with the stock fuel tank, I figured I'd take it.

 

-I'll most likely throw in a blower cam - would springs be necessary with this? I haven't done much research on the new generation valvetrain, but I thought they already come with some pretty stiff springs...I've heard of a lot of people doing cam swaps, but they mention nothing about springs - I don't know if it's just a given, or if it's not necessary unless I'm planning on really winding this motor out (which I'm not). Sorry for the long post, I just need to try to get everything sorted out right now

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You're planning to install all that in one weekend?

I'll say good luck to that as that is a ton of work assuming everything goes exactly as planned.

Valvesprings are a given for any cam swap on the LS based motors as the stock are barely enough for the stock cam.

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From what I've heard in the past, you may want to sump the stock tank. I hear that its got little to no baffling. And could run dry on ya if the fuel level drop below a certain point. A surge tank might not be a bad idea as well. But that stuff wouldn't be necessary to get the car running. What about radiator hoses? Hoses for the heater core? throttle cable? going to run it open headers for a while? got your drive shaft already made? Are you going to make the R230 mount or buy the MM one? I think that you're going to have this done in one weekend, its a HUGE amount of work. But if you do... I will bow down and call you the engine swapping master. ;)

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I have the mounts and cv adapters ready to go for the R230...shouldn't be that big of a problem. I know nothing goes as planned, but I think I have everything covered with the rear end. The tranny I can't imagine being that difficult. I'll probably need to "massage" the tunnel, and mount it up. The engine...well, I'm not too familiar with the newer generation of chevy motors, so that may take some time.

 

I was trying to avoid taking the engine to a machine shop, which is why I asked about the valve springs. I can replace the valve springs myself, I'm sure it's no big deal, but I believe there are a few other measurements that need to be taken that I'm not too familiar with, which is why I would take it to a shop. The last machine shop I took my old school sbc to, he explained the different measurements he needed to perform in order to insure there wouldn't be any conflict with the new cam/spring/lifter/pushrod combo. I can't remember any more details than that.

 

The stock EFI datsun tanks are supposed to be well-baffled for an EFI setup - I'm running one on my '72 240zt with the fuel pressure at 45psi give or take a few, and I've ran it close to empty before with no fluctuation in fuel pressure while cornering (I have a gauge on the A-pillar). My biggest concern with the fuel tank is if I'll have any fuel starvation issues with as much power as I'm planning on making (especially since it will be with forced induction). I don't know if the stock tank will hinder me.

 

I plan on having custom long-tubes fabricated for the exhaust, but the stock logs will work until then.

 

Radiator hoses shouldn't be that big of a deal - I'll sort it out when I get the radiator and engine in place.

 

I won't have a driveshaft ready until the rest of the drivetrain is in place...then I figured I would have it trailered to a driveshaft shop. If I can get everything else mounted and roll it out of the shop, I should stay out of trouble.

 

I'm still searching on this, but I'm always reading about other people swapping over to the F-body or corvette pulleys...is there a different offset? I figure I'm going to have to relocate the alternator (based on others' readings) but I can fabricate a bracket for that or something. I'm assuming I'll need to stick with the 6.0 pulleys so everything will line up with the supercharger. Then again, I think that supercharger will also fit the 5.3, so it may be alright. Like I said, I'm still searching on this.

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