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9 Inch Ford rear end conversion


Two40MuscleZ

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Guest Anonymous

Hey Van,

 

I did a little looking in my favorites in Internet Explorer, and remembered Chris Alstons page had some 'how to' including an excellent one on installing a rollbar (generic tips, unless your running a chevelle or whatever it was he shows being worked on). Anyway, this page has how to install a new rear suspension, it may give you some idea's.

http://www.cachassisworks.com/How%20To/htss1.htm

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

Thanks for reposting that, I hadn't been on that site in quite a while (although the photo of Mel tuning the carb is worth the visit icon_wink.gif ). I guess from the pictures the 9" and 4 link in there hooks rather well.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

It's related, but not a 9" question.

I might be able to get my hands on a 10 or 12 bolt (not sure yet, haven't seen the car) posi rear end basically for free. I want his engine, but he said he'd just as well give me the whole car. The only thing's of any worth that he claims to have r the motor, tranny, wheels and rear end. Well, I'll sell the tranny (auto) and wheels, but the motor and rear end could be useful.

 

All I was wondering is, for the price (almost free) is it worth it to put in the posi?

I don't want to have to worry about the rear end going out on me whenever I punch it and I have no clue how much a custom posi install would be, but will it be too drastic? With the way I drive, I can tell you now I'll be going through either tranny's or rear ends and getting a good tranny seems to be much easier and autos are always a last resort. I like the IRS, but for the over-all purpose of this car, I could really care less. I have a daily driver and I'd rather have a reliable car since I would travel about 70 miles everytime I wanted to race my z. It'd suck being an hours drive from home with no rear end (I know what it's like, my friend broke the yoke on his chevelle about 55 miles from home a few weeks ago and his g/fs mom had to tow us in her saturn. I don't know what's worse, breaking your muscle car or having it be towed by a 4-banger? Also, It'd be kinda cool to have a solid rear in there cause the car might just be able to hook well enough to get front end lift.... icon_rolleyes.gif So, price of a solid rear transplant, any ideas?

Thanks guys.

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Guest Anonymous

Probably in the upscale neighborhood of 1.5 to 2.5 thousand depending on the materials, rear end you choose and if its modd'ed. If you use a 12 bolt, it'll need to have C-clip eliminators (like Ford axles ends) if you don't want to worry about it. If you don't do the mod, the axles can slide out, and can you say probable body damage? After the mod, it can take quite a bit, the big blocks as you know ran them.

 

It ain't cheap, but once sussed, you won't have to worry about it to much. You do lose a the independent rear, thats important to some, others not so much.

 

It is a major mod though, one of our members runs a cut down 12bolt that looks rad as hell in there with the tubbed wide tires.

 

Well thats an estimate on a bit of research I've been doing on the subject. If you pay someone to do it, it'll probably run about 2500 + to have a chassis shop 'back half w/4 link' the car. Obviously the more you can do yourself, the cheaper it will get.

 

Regards,

 

Lone

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Guest Anonymous

I am just finishing up my 1970 240z with a built mopar 383 , ford 9" and a 4 link rear suspension. The rear is 36" housing end to housing end and 41" flange to flange and was purchased from a local yard for $90. I had the 31 spline axles resplined locally for $120 and the housing professionally narrowed by a local certified racecar chassis builder friend who has a jig FOR ABOUT $100. The posi was used for $100. I centered the pinion with the centerline of the car. I am using 3/4" x3/4" heim ends with 14" 1" diameter bars of equal length. My rear frame is 2x3 .120 wall tubing. The front crossmember is welded right about centered on the seat belt bolt holes on each side of the door sills. The frame rails are 20" apart they go straight up from the crossmember for 7" then back at an angle where they are 6" above the center of the rearend housing measured from the bottom of the rail to the housing. I then bend down 60 degrees to meet the rails coming from the rear of the car that are parallel to the ground. I am running 12 wide rims with mickey thompson 29x15.5 tires and everything fits. I am still using the drum brakes however I will be switching to discs in the future. the rear end housing itself has 3/16" fourlink plates welded to the housing and adjustable shock mounts for my adjustable rear coilovers. I have been building this with my 17 year old son and he is 6 feet tall he is able to fit ok but the seat is right against the front uprights.

 

Hope this info helps!

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Guest Anonymous

I'll try to get my son to take pictures of the car as it is now and I'll try to dig up some picts of earlier and get them scanned. I'm am home with a back injury right now so not much is being done on the car as of late. ( That is why I am spending so much time in the net) In the meantime, The person who had gotten me excited about this swap was Ron Barkley. I had seen his web site and had written him about some of the dimensions of his car. He has some great picts of his car on his web site. I hope to get my son's car up to Wichita to let him see what he inspired. icon_cool.gif

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