can the 88 300Z r200 lsd cv axles be used?

[stony]

these are from the 1988 turbo with the lsd r-200 or are they too long? can they be modded.... they look pretty stout.

[240Z Turbo]

is that the viscous unit or the clutch type lsd? The 88 300zxt SS model, all white w/white rims, had the Vicous LSD and that is what I use in my car w/cv axles.

[stony]

it is the clutch type no special edition.... it has cv axles i was wondering if these axles can be adapted with the popular adapters everyone is using or are they too long.

[240Z Turbo]

Greg Kring has a shop in Dallas, TX that will shorten and respline for about $100 per shaft. I think if you can search through axle books you can find an alternative shaft. You can have custom axles that are bulletproof made for less than the ford swap. Search your options 1st. At the very least do the normal CV swap 1st and see if it will survive.

[Doug71zt]

Stony - I'm using 300z turbo CV shafts in my 240ZT with a R200 clutch LSD without shortening the shafts. What I did was disassemble the outer CV joint and turn the spider around(it is offset). This moves the outer joint in and makes the shaft shorter. My adapters were made by machining the stock flange off of the stub axle adapters and pressing a 3/8 inch thick flange ring onto the stock adapter. The flange was drilled and machined to fit the CV pattern, then welded to the stock adapter inside and out. Final process was to machine the weld down and true the face where the CV mounts. The trick to not having to shorten the shafts is to cut off the end of the CV shaft, leaving only 1/8 inch beyond the snap ring groove, and getting 280Z stub shaft nuts(friction lock instead of stake type) and cutting off the ends of the stub shafts which stick out of the nuts. Leave one thread outside the nut and locktite and torque the stub shaft. You should use the late style stub shafts with the HP you are making(280Z) they have bigger splines. I have run this on my l28et which runs high 12s to low 13s for 3 years with 245/50/16 Nitto DR's with no problems. I'm leaving the line at 4500 and hooking up good (1.85-2.00 60'). I don't run a rear anti-sway bar at the strip - it was causing big wheel hop and run about +1 camber to get the contact patch flat when it squats. I made 4130 rear control arms similar to yours and just adjust the rod ends before I go to the strip. Sorry about the length of the post - just thought I'd throw in my .02

 

Cheers - Doug

[stony]

Ok great that was the info i was looking for i think it was posted somewhere else but icouldnt find it.... If something breaks in teh cv axle what will it bee? the axle itself or the cv it self?

 

next question... the brakes from the same car, front and rear disc's are they adaptable? if they are then i just found a new winter project ;> look like the IRS gets to stay for a while... at least till next season.

[Doug71zt]

Judging by what the front-drive boys blow up - I would have to say the shaft would go first. I blew a u-joint shaft in half in my old Z. Broke at the bottom of the outer u-joint yoke. Tough on brake lines that was. As for brakes - if you are staying 4 bolt rims - check out Ross C. or SCCA (mike) both have lots of brake options. I am running Z32 TT calipers on Willwood rotors at both ends - lots of work - but low cost and the performance is great. They are not too good on a 3600Lb car be awesome on a 2500 Lb car.

 

Cheers - Doug