jaguar rear

[Chaparral2f]

I have found a good deal on a complete jag rear end (diff, brakes, axels, springs) from an xj6. I would like to put it under my z31 but the track on the jag is 59 inches, and the 300zx is 55 inch. Do I have to narrow the jag, or can I just handle the difference in width by flaring the rear fenders? I don't know much about suspension, so I need all the help I can get.

[Mike C]

The jag rear axle suffers from the same malady as a 'vette. It uses the half shaft as a locating link. This can causes all sorts of evil things to happen when and if a half shaft breaks. They were all the rage in street rods at one time, but nobody really uses them much anymore. The gear ratios suck unless you want to go to Bonneville. SOmething like 2.86. You cannot get a limited slip either except for the Dana 44 center section that was found in some mid 80's XJS. IMO you should spend money/time elsewhere as your 300ZX setup is better than the 1950's design of the Jag rear end.

[Guest Anonymous]

WHY ! I doubt that the jag rear end is much stronger than the 300 Zx and the mounting placement would be a pita expense on a unibody chassis

[CruxGNZ]

I'm not saying that you should use it, but man, those Jag rear ends sure do look pretty cool all chromed up under a hot rod!

 

!M!

[blueovalz]

Don't they also have inboard brakes? If so, I don't think there is enough room around the differential for them anyway.

[Mike C]

They do have inboard brakes and they are a first class PITA! Both to change pads and for parts. And you only THINK car parts are expensive until you work on a jag...

[Chaparral2f]

I see that no one has strong opinions about the Jag suspension . I really appreciate the feedback. The Jag does have Inboard brakes, that is one of the main attractions. I like the idea of less unsprung weight, and the fact that the brakes act directly on the chasis instead of the suspension. I still haven't made up my so called mind, but you all have given me a lot more to consider. Thanx

[Guest Luigi]

Um....not to piss anyone off, but as a (don't laugh) british car tech for 10 years, I've a few things to add about the Jag rearend.

First the ratios: 3.54 is about the most common I see. it is possible to get other gears. they are fairly costly $400.-700. but you can get them used from Terry's Jag for $200-300. although a 3.54 is a pretty good all around gear I think.

next the PITA to work on: Once the cage is removed there is no problem servicing the brakes. The e-brake is a little mechanical caliper that mounts on the top of the hyd. caliper. This is a crappy little dude. but to be fair Jag calls it a parking brake and not an emergency brake. Bail on that and put one on the pinion. The disc are held on by the half shafts. 4 bolt per side. 2 caliper bolts and the disc falls off. Plus it's a rear brake. How often do you expect to service it? Jags that race had a cooling problem scoops and such were used. Once you get it out the cage plenty 'o flow.

weird problems with the half-shaft being the upper link: Never seen anything like that. Bill Terry (Terry's Jag parts) races an E-type in vintage. I'll ask him.They are tricky to align. But jeppers, I can set camber and toe. thats pretty cool eh?

Almost all of 'em out the E-type are equiped with a locker style diff. This is a good thing. Most of the sedans are not.

We just put one under a 1964 GTO. I'll take pictures. There are 2 things that suck: they weigh a ton (the diff) the radius arm that locates the lower arm ass. fore and aft needs some careful thought. Jag did it wrong (for packaging) so they cheated and mounted them in BIG rubber bushings. Plus the whole cage is mounted in rubber. So the different arcs the a described by the different arms are conflicting. Easy fix: move the pivot to the same centerline as the inner pivot.

Sorry for the long winded reply. I was working on the Goat last night on this very problem (the pivot. we got it right but our crossmemeber is flexing) so it's fresh on my mind. If you need help with Jag don't call me. I'm joking you can ring me at work, my dime 800-251-8186 ext. 6248

luigi

[Guest Luigi]

Oh while I was raving I forgot. The E-type arms are narrower (is that a word?) I'll measure if you want. Or you can make your own arms or cut your arms. I't ain't to tricky.

luigi

[Mike C]

I had a buddy looking at building a Cobra kit and the E type was the diff of choice, but they were outlandish at something in the neighborhood of $2500 complete. While the more common/pedestrian XJ6 setup can be had for $500.

[Z-TARD]

My friend just picked up a posi rear end out of an 82 XJ-6 at Pick a Part for $180.00. I briefly thought of using one in my Z, but it weighs almost as much as my car does....

[Z-TARD]

Ever considered using the independant rear from a '91 or later T-Bird? I'm pretty sure that it uses a standard ford 8.8 differential, so finding posi or new gear ratios would be fairly easy. Its also bolted into its own seperate frame, or cage, much like the jag rear end. It might not be too difficult (relatively speaking) to fab mounting points on the underside of the Z to attach it to.

Or you could just use the diff by itself without the rest of the t-bird suspension. This is also the same diff and suspension used in the new SVT Cobras, so it should be able to handle some decent HP levels. Anyway, just my $0.02 worth.