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L28ET 78 ECU and harness..


TommyZ

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I am about to swap an L28ET into my 280z.... I've done the swap before using a haltech fuel computer... Now on a

budget I want to use the ecu and harness in my 78 280z along with the coolent temp sensor cold start and air flow meter

using turbo injectors and fuel pump... Has any one done this before ..I dont want a monster I just want it to run @ 6-8 psi for

a few months then get a fuel computer later on..by the way I am running an L28ET from an 83 and I am going to change

the dizzy and shaft to run the 78 dizzy.....

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  • 2 weeks later...

hi, just wanted to understand your intent, so your complete L28ET will be swapped into a NA 78 280Z & you'd use stock 78 NA ECU, wiring harness, & dizzy so some of the turbo engine's sensors will not be connected to the ECU...is that the intended program?

 

I would like to add turbo components to my NA 78 L28E (do a turbo conversion to my N42 block & N47 head) but if possible would like to run the stock NA wiring harness, ECU & dizzy...so what I want to do is very similar to what you want to do

 

if you could keep me posted as to what you find out & how you make out, it would be appreciated...I will do the same...my email is david.drake@sympatico.ca

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I did that on 4 different Z's and it works great.

 

Use the 78 injectors.

 

buy a bell engineering FMU (225.00) and set the fuel pressure to 60 psi at 7.5 psi of boost (stock boost)

 

pull the 78 distributor apart and use RTV to fill up the mechanical advance slots. Let dry over night. set the timing to 26 degrees at idle. use the vacuum advance as normal.

 

you may find the engine runs better with the FMU spring tighten up a little bit ( 7 or 8 teeth) and the throttle position sensor in the off-idle position. play with those setting to see if the car runs better..

 

I have run up to 14 psi of boost with this setup and have run over 108 mph in the 1/4 mile.

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I dont think that is a very good idea at all, esp using the NA injectors with a ton of fuel pressure, its a bandaid fix at best.

 

 

FMU's with stock NA injectors is a very common way of adding more fuel during boost. Works well to about 10 psi of boost. There is a lot of FMU builds in "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. I forget, but he says 110psi is about he max pressure that should be used.

 

No doubt a new efi system would be a better way to go. But, a fmu will work fine for low boost and a low budget situation.

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These are the things that you do to tweak the stock EFI system; this methodology was worked out from 1975 until about 1995-2000 when market technology became cheap enough for us mere mortals to start buying and installing aftermarket EMSs on our turbo cars, and the turbo Z world really spooled up...

 

 

Its things like this (the fact that the only way to upgrade is through "bandaids") that people say "You can't really upgrade the stock system, just carb it" and that was the ONLY solution for a 280Z/X for many years. Seriously; until about 98-99, if you got a 280Z or ZX and it wasn't in super great mechanical shape, ditching the EFI and throwing some SUs on was step A-1.

 

Regardless of whether or not its "the right" way to build it, it WILL work. Throw a potentiometer into the CTS circuit for an on-the-fly enrichment option! Advance the AFM flap a notch or two (or retard it, who cares?) Find a Cressida AFM and swap the Datsun AFM guts in while you are at it! This is modifying in hardware. It just takes grade 8 "lugnuts" (or, from a different point of view, the ability to cope when things break down)

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just to make sure we are clear, don't come running up here to west palm and thrash me when something goes wrong (say, your mixture leans out unexpectedly and you put a hole in your piston) because this IS an awkward and "temporary" way to set something up. If I were trying to do something like this I would be :

 

A-1: STUDYING EVERY PAGE OF THE EFI BIBLE UNTIL YOU KNOW IT BY PAGE NUMBER.

 

A-2 Find a way to make sure the mixture is a bit rich

 

B through E: Find four more ways to make sure the mixture always runs a bit rich; these old computers cannot react quickly, so when one pair of parameters for some reason makes the ECU want to lean the mix out, you NEED to be sure at least one other parameter is countering that. REALLY, the only way to do this sort of thing right is to know the progam algorithm behind the ECU.

 

and then

 

F: Get it to run right.

 

This is a touchy job; be careful and don't get the idea that "the guys on the internet said they used to do it all the time." What I said was, WHEN EFI was retained and tweaked without departing from stock, this is how it was done. I never even messed around with any of this stuff, but when I first got my 280 in Y2K I did some searching and found a few of these tricks. By the time I was at a point where I might have tried to dinker with any of them, I had decided it would be unwise for me, in my situation with my tools.

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Again thanks for all the info ..I just bought back my old set up and I will be running that.. F3 haltech,Eletromotive ignition, Bosh turbo Fuel pump,1/2 fuel lines,topend performance fuel rail, 550cc injectors, t3/t04 ,external waste gate,I dynoed 292hp / 331tq @ 12 psi with that set up and later went to 18-20 psi but never got back to the dyno.

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