islanddozer Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 only $15. I use a clear plastic filter that you can get at walmart for $5 so I can watch the colour of the fuel and to make sure it is getting the fuel it needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrariferg Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 I only paid about $8 for a filter. Islanddozer, are you using the clear filter on an FI setup? I was told not to use one because they can't handle the high PSI. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m4xwellmurd3r Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 well, I have a clear filter BEHIND the pump, to catch any tank crap before it gets sucked into the pump. it works great, till the filter gets so full that the engine stumbles again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 Ok a little update. Things I checked.. - I replaced the filter, no difference. - Put in a can of fuel injector cleaner, no difference - Checked all the spark plugs gaps and cleaned them even though they looked pretty nice. Didnt help at all. - Cleaned the afm, tps, and water temp sensors (one between 5/6 on the head) The tps had some green corrosion but it didnt make much difference. - Cleaned the points on the distributor, no difference. - Air filters good. - Didnt find any vacume leaks, I will check more later. - Wastegate isnt frozen, It moves freely. Problems.. - What I thought was the pop off valve is actually a back fire out the intake. Im going to upload a video where I you can here it. - Cylinder 3 is dead, I pulled the sparkplug wires and you could hear the engine slow down till you hit 3, no change at all. It is getting spark so Ill be checking the fuel injector. - Engine still stumbles and depending on how fast Im going will die. If Im going fast enough the car moving will bring the rpms back up till the engine regains power. - I got on a long stretch of road and gave it full throttle, it downshifts and goes up to 4000 and will hit a wall. Acceleration virtually vanishes and you have to let off so it will shift up and then you can accelerate again (drops back to the 3000 range). My ideas.. - Fuel starvation up top. - Timing - Bad injector - Bad AFM? - ??? My plan.. - Spark looks somewhat weak so Im going to look at a new coil and distributor cap. - Pull the fuel rail, clean injectors maybe go get them tested? - Try to find someone with a timing light so I can check timing. - Get a fuel pressure guage to see if Im getting enough fuel. EDIT- Heres the video, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MMA_nK-Ouy4 At the end you can here the pop. It is coming from the very front of the car, at the filter so I assume its a backfire. Also if you listen and watch the throttle, you can see it actually begins to die if you throttle it. It will bog for a second then rev up. Also included a bit showing the afm and throttle. When I pull the spark plug wires you can faintly hear the engine bogging or not doing anything (in number 3's case). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrariferg Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 I'm no expert but I'm thinking timing, injectors, fuel pump, or a combo of the 3. Check the injector and connector on 3 for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 Sweet, just went out and checked the 3rd injectors plug and it just poped off with a push of my finger. I looked at the connector and its full of rust. Hopefully I can get a replacement or try to clean this one out, the plastic is broken. I dont know why I didnt check it before. Maybe since its the injectors thats hiding under a bunch of tubes and the fuel rail. Thanks Ferrariferg! Also, I hardly ever see the oil temp move. It seems to stay right at the left sometimes a few mm to the right. It has a oil cooler and it is cold outside, should I block the cooler with a piece of cardboard or something? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 Well I pulled the whole injector harness, all of them are just about shot. They are all rusted/corroded. Im sure this would have some affect on them firing correctly. Most of the plastic is broken, and some of the clips are gone. What do you guys reccomend? Ive seen injector clips with a few inches of wire for sale here are they available elsewhere? In the mean time, how do you clean these things? The holes are really small. --- Cleaned as much as I could and got it all hooked back up. Car started really quick, idles smoother and where it should be (not 1100rpm) Engine still hesitates (as in the video) when you open up the throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 tried a timing light? the backfire is from wrong timing. there ia also a crank position sensor that can be adjusted. it is on drivers side at crank pulley. by all means check that distributor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttsbc280z Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 first thing that should have been done is a compression test. get back to us with some numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted February 9, 2009 Author Share Posted February 9, 2009 I will. Im gonna buy one tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 Alright, just got done with the compression test. All the cylinders are within 5-10 psi. Lowest being about 110ish, highest being 120ish. The rest are spread out inbetween, most at 115. Haynes says 100 is minimum so Im not too bad. Im thinking a valve adjustment and a little zmax/engine restore additive may give me a little more. I am getting a set of new injector clips/plugs along with one for the water temp sensor. Those might help alittle. Also one thing I noticed, when I leave for school in the morning its really cold and the car wont cut out like it does during the day when its warmer. Running at about half throttle and under 3500 its fine. Something to note I guess. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrariferg Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Glad i could help. I'll take the tail lights as payment. lol. JK. Hopefully the new connectors will help. I would definitely check the timing though. That would be the only thing I can think of that would cause it to backfire. If that doesn't work then have the injectors flow tested and clean all your fuel lines. Hope you can get it going strong. I havn't even been in a turbo'd car of any kind yet but I'm addicted to boost. I guess my friend had a turbo LeBaron that I rode in a lot but I don't count it. The turbo is the size of a doughnut and the car needs it or its amazingly slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 Yeah timings next, Im going to wait till I have an extra hand. WOLDSON answer your phone!!! I did borrow a timing light and was going to change it but for some reason theirs a pulley bolted directly on top of the CAS. I believe its to the A/C which is out of commision (no belt) so I need to find out how to remove the thing. What a dumb place to put it. As for timing if it is off which way would it be? Backfire out the intake means early, correct? Yet lack of power would mean its to late. I cant go both ways... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejracer Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 My suggestion is to do the cheap stuff first. -compression test (your's sounds good). -Swap ignition leads to see if the problem follows the leads. -look at your spark plugs, contrast how the firing cylinders look compared to the non-firing, inspect insulators, swap plugs between cylinders to see if the problem follows the plugs. -Get the AFM contacts cleaned up, then sealed! noticed the cover was removed. -clean electrical connections. A mini screwdriver works wonders for this. Use a good preservative. I like using deoxit D5 and Deoxit G5. Make sure you get the PCM contacts. on my turbo car all the engine bay connectors were all crudded up, each one seemed to make a difference, but it was slight. The PCM connectors however made a big difference. -Check your battery leads, don't underestimate this step. Ensure the leads are free from corrosion, and the ground lead on the chassis is in good order. -Get a timing light and time it. Also check for spark consistency on the coil lead. If it skips, track it down each of the leads and see if there is a common cylinder, or if it affects all. Too much timing can cause detonation. On my 72 N/A car, not enough timing causes intake backfires. I would just get it right so you can eliminate the variables. -Clean fuel injectors. - if you go this route do not waste your time by getting injector cleaner. Go to the paint store and buy a gallon of Tolulene and / or Xylene. pour it straight into your gas tank in equal parts of gasoline, tolulene and Xylene. Tolulene is the active ingredient in fuel injector cleaner. In the concentrations mentioned, I don't reccommend leaving it in there a long time. You'll be fine over a couple of days. This made the second biggest difference on mine. I still had a pop on accel, but had great power. I diagnosed this as injector spray pattern, and ended up replacing all injectors. I put in refurbished Beck Arnley injectors from RockAuto.com rock auto discount code: 1395493818346 Valid until march 22nd 2009. The new injectors made a big difference. 4. Check your fuel pressure. Good luck with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
islanddozer Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 your compression #'s look good so there should be no need for valve adjustment. Still thinking timing. Sounds like too far retarded. Idle should increase when advancing and slower when in retard. If the a/c compressor is not working, get rid of it. The first thing that went on my car. Save some lbs and allow more room for working on things. 1 long bolt with nut on top and 2 going straight up on bottom. Did you try to adjust that tps ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted February 10, 2009 Author Share Posted February 10, 2009 Im gonna pull the ac compressor off tomorrow, then I can get to the CAS. Rejracer, thanks for the tips. Btw, all cylinders are firing, but the spark looks weak on some of the wires when I pull it off of the distributor. Would this be the coil or the cap? Im trying to fit in time with school so bear with me. If I can get the ac off and the timing checked Ill go through the electrical connections. Islanddozer, Ill adjust the TPS and see if it makes a difference. Thanks for all the help. If its fun to drive when it doesnt have much power it sure will be fun running properly! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ttsbc280z Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 check the plug wires. could be something as simple as that. I got a dizzy layin around for that thing to... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RDusel Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Keep in mind that an extreme lean condition will also cause a "frontfire"(backfire through the intake) as well as the timing. Given that the car hits a wall at high RPMS I would suspect fuel starvation is causing the backfire. CAS on the crank is pretty accurate (unless someone played around with it) and doesn't tend to creep with wear like a dizzy CAS will. I guess that is one advantage to the 81 system. And the advance is done via the ECU so there is no vacuum advance to worry about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rejracer Posted February 10, 2009 Share Posted February 10, 2009 Challenger, When you pull wires from the cap you are testing the entire circuit. So it could be the cap, plug wires or Plugs. Doubt it would be the rotor or the coil. To test, get a test lead connected to the neg battery terminal and compare to that lead, not the plug wire. If the wires have higher resistance it will reduce the current flow and thus the weaker spark. Testing to the known good ground will eliminate that variable in the test. For grins, just pull the cap and rotor, and clean the contacts with a pocket knife. It's free, and easy to do. You also have a higher chance of getting shocked with higher resistance leads. My turbo car was poping and hesitating. Cleaning all the electrical connectors seemed to resolve the hesitation, but it would still backfire through the intake, and sometimes bad!. Cleaning the fuel system helped, quite a bit, but it was not spot on. When I replaced the injectors that was it. I then found out how bad the clutch really is. It works great for yardcar service. By the way, I bought my turbo car for 500.00. You got ripped off (i won't mention that it needed a 400 in parts to get it running good, and has a bad clutch) (nor will I put in a shameless plug that I will be parting out a turbo doner later this year) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted February 11, 2009 Author Share Posted February 11, 2009 Well I already cleaned the cap and rotor. Didnt make much of a difference. And I tried to get it for $500 but he wouldnt take it. Also Im starting to think more that its loosing fuel. The tank is about empty right now and as I was coming back from school it started to actually hit a wall around 3000ish instead of the usual 4000. Im thinking it wasnt getting enough fuel with the tank full and when the tank got low its even worse. I think that explains the lack of power and it not reving properly along with the backfire (back fired at 3000 as I came home) but not the stumbling it was having. Im thinking the stumble has to do with electronics/spark. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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