grumpyvette Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 how many guys are planing a first time engine rebuild?, that might need guidance or questions answered, assistance? ETC? anyone in south florida area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madden87 Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 I will be building an engine in a few months. My friend has is helping me, but he is the type that is set in his ways. He is always right so it would be nice to hear a different view. I want an engine that will put me in the low to mid 11's on the motor, but still capable of handling NOS. I currently run 12.3 with a stock bottom end (flat top 4 relief pistons) and dart 200cc iron eagle heads. I have an extra 4 bolt main block to start the project with. I want to start picking up parts over the next month or so. What should I keep my eyes out for? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 At that power range and with nitrous in the future ID suggest thinking 4340 steel FORGED components, (RODS WITH 7/16" ARP BOLTS) and forged pistons as a basic rotating assembly something like this with the forged piston option at a MINIMUM http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=277_278&products_id=673 better http://www.adperformance.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=277_278&products_id=975 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madden87 Posted February 8, 2009 Share Posted February 8, 2009 I noticed that those rotating assemblys are for a stroker engine. I wanted to stay with a 355. I am already running out of gear before the end of the track because I have 23" tires and a cam that only goes to 6200rpm. I am replacing the tires with 26.2", but with nitrous I would like to be able to go a little higher than a 383 wants to. Am I correct in this reasoning? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grumpyvette Posted February 8, 2009 Author Share Posted February 8, 2009 the same company lists the shorter stroke 350-355 versions (rotating assemblies)but if it was my car ID select a 383 and change the gear or increase the tires dia,as required, its a bit counter productive to match the engine to the gearing vs match the gearing to the engine, if it means adding rpms and reducing the power curve to do so, which is EXACTLY what going for a 350 vs a 383 will do, UNLESS your racing a class based on displacement to weight ratios, where the 350 might be a slightly better choice, but its almost a (GIVEN) that a 383 will produce about 35-45 more ft lbs of tq thru most of the rpm range the 383 weigts the same as a 355 sbc, and having that extra 35-40 plus ft lbs of torques is easily enought advantage to make a noticable differance in any race provided your suspension and tires can effectively use the power(and a (Z) should easily do that) as its light enought Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madden87 Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 I understand that torque is good, but I was under the impression that the z car is light enough that the torque factor is not as critical in an engine build as it would be if it was going into a 3500 car. I have been building my car to spin at about 6800-7200 rpm. I made this choice based on what I have read and seen on this forum. I don't see a lot of 383 stroker motors. I don't question the reason why people build them, but for my set up I will stick with a 355. Thanks for the info Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rytherwr Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 madden87...even though it looks like you've already made up your mind, my recommendation is to reconsider. Grumpy is absolutely correct...you are by far better off building the 383 vs the 355 and matching gears/tires to the engine's torque, hp, and rpm curves and type of transmission you have. You won't have to work the motor anywhere near as hard as you would with the 355 to get the same results. There actually are a lot of 383's on this site and if you talk to those guys, I believe they would agree. My two cents. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZZZeee Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 I have a fairly beefy 350 SBC bored +.060 (360, I think) and for most people it's about right. For others it's too much. It's not enough for me so I'm building a strong 400 SBC. It just depends on how much TQ/HP you want. To each his own. FWIW, this current setup will run high 12's all day. I expect to get into the mid-low 10's with the 400 and other updates. A strong 355 matched with the right transmissoin setup, torque conv., diff. ratio, tires etc. can easily get you into the 11's but it's easier and more streetable with more CID. A 383 can be made a little more street friendly ET for ET than a 355. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.