lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted February 9, 2009 Share Posted February 9, 2009 Well I am happy to say that this weekend I was able get a couple of things put together instead of always taking things apart. First I hooked up the throttle cable using the Lokar 1000TP and modifying the Datsun gas pedal. Had to tweek it to the right and drill the ball out for the clevis to fit. Worked good. Secondly I installed the Tilton clutch master to the stock Firebird slave and it works good also except the petal presure is quite high. Seems too high but I don't know as I haven't driven a Firebird but shifting this 6 speed might get a little tough in traffic. I have read most of the posts on this site and most people say to use th e 7/8" piston instead of the 3/4" that JTR reccomends and I believe one person said to use a 1" piston Wildwood I believe. Can anyone tell if I did something wrong or is this the stiffness I should expect?. Haven't started it yet so don't know if it is releasing properly. Thanks, Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted February 11, 2009 Share Posted February 11, 2009 I have the Tilton 7/8" master and the metal t5 slave on my T56, granted I only got to drive it onto a trailer, off a trailer down my driveway a couple of times and back up on jack stands before the LT1 decided to develop a knock but the clutch feel was fine. I drove the 95 Trans AM it came out of and my son has a 95 Formula and they all felt about the same pressure wise. Hopefully I will be running again by summer and will let you know wih a real road test. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 Thanks Greg. I spoke to Tilton today things Here's what they said. In essence the larger the bore the harder the petal pressure. So to soften the stiffness you would need to reduce the bore size but that may cause not enough fluid to be available to completely release the clutch. JTR recommends the 3/4" while almost everyone on HybridZ says to use the 7/8" and forget JTR. I can see why JTR recommends what they do but I have read that some complain of a release problem. Doesn't completely release. The other option is to lengthen the clutch arm, more leverage, by extending it at the petal or by raising the pivot point which doesn't look feasible on my car at least. They also say that the needed size should not be larger than the Slave's bore size which for a stock Camaro I believe is 1". I could go up one making my petal harder. Also they said to check the ratio between the distance of the clevis to pivot point divided into the distance of the petal pad to the pivot point. Should be 5.5 or greater for easier petal pressure. For now I think I will stick with the 7/8". I am afraid the 3/4 might not work and I don't have the car up and running to test them out. They are a $100 apiece too. Thanks Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted February 12, 2009 Share Posted February 12, 2009 I would keep the 7/8 and wait until you got it running. Did you re-tap the rod shaft and mate it to the Datsun pedal adjustment? Mine feels fine and I was able to adjust the pedal to exactly where I wanted it. I don't remember the bore of the metal T5 slave but quite a few have gone this route but mostly because they didn't want a plastic slave so close to the exhaust and wanted the advantage of having a bleeder. I think I paid $45 for the pre 93 Camaro slave at AutoZone Using AN fittings to replace the GM quick-connect was another story though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted February 12, 2009 Author Share Posted February 12, 2009 I exchanged the shaft in the Tilton for the shaft out of the datsun, Same size so it was a bolt up. I kept the adjustment length the same because the stroke is the same, 1 1/8" so there should be no need to adjust. I have the metal slave you spoke about sitting on my work bench ($60). Never opened but since I was able to get the OEM slave blead out with no problem I'll probably just return it to AutoZone unless you know of an advantage to using it. I'll look at the exhaust issue. Here's a tip for you. Those roll pins used to hold the GM connector can be bought at a industrial hardware store. The one locally I go to is called McFadden Dale. Couldn't believe my eye as I was stolling down the isle and look over an saw boxes of them, every size you could imagine. I think they have several locations. Google them Larry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 Hey, thanks for that source, I spent many hours trying to find them, I looked in about 4 speciality hardware shops, went to 3 GM dealers and begged with no luck, tried a few transmission shops and spent hours searching on the web. Hopefully I will never need those pins again but you never know. Yeah sourcing autoparts is a lot easier on the west coast than in New England. I grew up in CA and built a lot of cars, there were speed shops on almost every corner, people trading or selling stuff in the valley Green Sheet, junk yards up the gazoo, Van Nuys cruise nights etc. in general there are a lot more people into working on their cars than here in the New England rust belt. Hell the closest dragstrip is over 2 hours away from me in NH and there isn't one in MA The closest road track is even further away. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted February 13, 2009 Author Share Posted February 13, 2009 Come home!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 i had a tilton in my old lt1 t56 and it feels pretty good. not too hard but slightly stiffer than stock z. believe it or not, i used an air fitting and grinded it down to fit the slave cylinder and grinded a line accross the side like the oem clutch hose for the lock pin and it worked perfect with no leaks. too bad i dont have anymore pics of it. it would save alot from using an oem hose, cutting the head piece off and welding it to a aftermarket hose to make it work. the air fitting is soo much easier and is only 3/4 bucks from a local autparts store. the oem hose is kinda pricey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piston Posted February 13, 2009 Share Posted February 13, 2009 by the way, the roll pins can be found at a local napa autoparts store. i know cause i work there and we got it, and thats also how i found my air fitting. sounds cheapo but it works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted February 14, 2009 Author Share Posted February 14, 2009 Looks like the mystery is solved. napa Auto Parts of McFaddenDale hardware for roll pins if anyone needs to know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gvincent Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 Come home!!!! When I am ready to retire I would love to move back to the Central coast somewhere, Anywhere between Atascadero and Monterey I like Cambria. But I suppose house prices there has gone through the roof. I remember building VW dune buggies and VW sand rails and running on Pismo Beach back in the late 60's early 70's Enviromentalist have probably put a stop to that long time ago like they did here on the Cape Cod dunes. Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graphicjunkie Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 So with an LT1 going to a T56, would this be the right part? http://www.jegs.com/i/Tilton/454/75-875U/10002/-1 It says that it has a 1.1" stroke. That sounds too short to me. No? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted February 16, 2009 Author Share Posted February 16, 2009 It's the one I used. Seems to work but haven't got the engine running yet. Saved space so you don't have to relocate your window washer bottle. 1.1 inch is what hte datsun master has but with a 5/8 piston so 7/8" should work. You'll need the -3 adapters to connect it up to the stock slave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
graphicjunkie Posted February 16, 2009 Share Posted February 16, 2009 scanned back through this whole thread...didn't see anything about the adapters. What are those? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lgoodson@pacbell.net Posted February 18, 2009 Author Share Posted February 18, 2009 Check this link post #4. I list all the parts there that I used http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=142546 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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