BLKMGK Posted August 29, 2001 Share Posted August 29, 2001 Okay, I've installed my refurbished and JB Welded slave. I don't think it's going to hold and will be ordering the parts to use th estock GM hose tonight. However that's not currently my problem (sigh). Upon installing the slave I've got a VERY stiff pedal and the clutch isn't disengaging properly. This has got to be a bleed problem but I didn't have these problems last time darn it! My install was as follows - install line at both ends, slave hanging free. Open bleeder at master, loop hose into fluid well, pump pedal. Close bleeder. Open line at bottom at slave until fluid came out, close line. By hand press the VERY stiff slave 5 or 6 times slowly full stroke. Bolt slave to the transmission. Pedal is stiff but I'm pretty sure that it's on the clutch arm fine. When I cranked up the car (on jackstands) with the pedal down and in gear the wheels turned! Argh! It was fine before - what have I missed? While I was at it I had to redo a line end too (sigh). It was leaking badly but hadn't before! The pedal seemed fine before the slave blew - WTF?! Pretty sure all internal parts are installed correctly - I was careful. Help? If it wasn't bled of air it would be soft right? That's the way it was before I bled it - very soft.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted August 29, 2001 Share Posted August 29, 2001 Are you sure the slave is attached to the release collar on the clutch properly? That's all I can think of... Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 29, 2001 Author Share Posted August 29, 2001 Well, I had to compress the sucker to get it in there. I suppose it's possible that it's not on the lever maybe? I will check this tomorrow, I got pretty frustrated tonight and gave up. Working on this alone is a PITA - have no way to know when all bubbles are out of the silly line bleeding it this way! I'll make sure th elever is on the clutch too - can't imagine it would've slipped off for no reason but maybe? Also - while doing this the fitting I had JB Welded into the slave moved a bit. It didn't leak or anything but it's not as solid as I'd like. Had the previous fitting shot out while I was in traffic I'd have had to drive home sans clutch and might have even rear-ended someone if I'd been at a light (shiver). As it was I was lucky I had just turned the motor off otherwise I'd have taken a trip into my engine hoist in the garage! So, PO'ed anyway I pulled up JEGs and have put in an order for the following parts: 1 part #023-FCM1100 -3 TFE straight hose end 1 part # 799-661751 Russell -3 to -4 flare adapter, this is the "magic part". 1 part #799-610010 -4 Russell hose end. Note that this isn't for the TFE hose. The GM stuff appears to be "normal" braided line. All together this was a little over $20. Next day air drove it up a bit on my order though I want to drive this thing darn it! Lastly, I could've ordered, and would've preferred, 1 part #361-63011724 but it was out of stock. That $20 part is a -3 to -3 Earl's brake hose with a 90 degree on one end. I would've used that from the master to the union and dumped the -3 straight end. NOT cheap but when dealing with things like fuel and brake lines I honestly prefer a premade line (ahem). Summit doesn't appear to carry those. I've used them in the past for running a high pressure fuel line to an isolator for a fuel pressure gauge. It's good stuff! Perhaps later, I think my current -3 line is now okay after having redone a leaking fitting. So, I'll let everyone know how these parts work out and if I have any trouble with the GM -4 hose or not - don't order yet. Rather than cutting, tapping, and praying I think using the GM OEM fitting might be best. I'll sure be happy when the bugs are all worked out of this puppy (sigh) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 29, 2001 Share Posted August 29, 2001 Sounds like you'll be cruising in no time! Hang in there. I hope to see it at Mike's reception! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 29, 2001 Share Posted August 29, 2001 As mentioned, definitely check that pushrod is seated in the cup on the clutch fork. Mine was real weird the first time through, super stiff and didn't seem right, I pulled it out and the rod was pushing on the clutch fork but was also rubbing on the bellhousing (not in the cup on the fork). So it was binding somewhat. Let us know how that works out for you, might be worth it for insurance although mine seems solid, I used a pipe tap into quite a bit of meat, but if you use to large of a bit and get less threads it could cause a problem as you no doubt know. Let us know. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 29, 2001 Share Posted August 29, 2001 I saw something about the stock GM hose having a restrictor inside it to provide for a easier engagement of the clutch, but what it did for performance drivers was give them problems shifting, as there was still pressure in the line. Solution was to use a small drill bit to drill out the restrictor (it's near one of the end fittings), and then problem was solved! I'll try and find the article. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 30, 2001 Author Share Posted August 30, 2001 Lone hit it square on the head. I pulled the unit, looked it over, eveything looked fine Frustrated I began putting it back in... just as I did so I deced to slip the little added on casting piece back and examine the cup. It was tough to see in there but the silly thing dropped out of the clutch cup and was pointed down at the edge of the flywheel resting on the clutch lever! DOH! Slipped it up carefully and bolted it all together - ta da, fixed. Thank you Lone! I thought it was stiff enough to stick straight out when I put it in there (cough) but it wasn't (sigh). As for the restrictor - that's TRUE! I've seen some sites claim it might be LS1 only but I can confirm it's not. The hose that I've got out of a 94+ LT1 T56 HAS the restrictor. I intentionally cut it so that I could see if it was there and I see it plainly. I will cut the hose below that point, way below, when I hookup the -3 line to it. Anyway, took the car out for an extended spin tonight. Even did some highway driving! 6th gear is REAL low No speedo' onboard since I've not hooked it up (ahem) but it was moving. A few things to tighten and tune but clunks are gone, exhaust is loud, needs a tune BAD! Will work on that soon but for now it's running fine. WooHoo! Thanks for all th ehelp guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 30, 2001 Share Posted August 30, 2001 Glad to help, as I'll be hitting up everyone for so much info you'll hate me once I start the project.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owen Posted August 30, 2001 Share Posted August 30, 2001 Congrats! I'm gonna have to check my slave one day... Owen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted August 31, 2001 Share Posted August 31, 2001 Cool, glad to hear that was it. Sounds like some tuning and a few miles and you'll be a happy man with that car. Congrats. Regards, Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted August 31, 2001 Author Share Posted August 31, 2001 Hrm, went to do the -3# to -4 today. Seems the GM hose is NOT -4! Neither does it appear to be -3. i'm going to try and visit a hydraulic shop today and have a fitting made lock stock and barrel. I'm betting that the fitting I've got from the slave isn't "standard" but it's worth a shot. If I do this I'll have the whole hose made and I will post the cost if it can be done as I'm betting others might be interested Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 1, 2001 Author Share Posted September 1, 2001 I THINK I've got this licked!!! My issue was that I couldn't find a crimp ring and somehting to crimp a fitting onto this tiny line. The hydraulic shop had had fittings for small inside diameter but their outside diameter was too big. Soo... I woke up this morning with an idea. I've got a DISH system here and not all that long ago had to replace an end. Yup, it's about th esame size crimp ring as the clutch slave line! I hit RatShack this morning and grabed two sets of crimp rings, F-56 for RG-6 fits best It was a PITA getting the ring to slide over the stainless "hairs" and even recutting the end didn't help. I ended up wrapping a round of strapping tape on it and then pressing each little wire under the crimp with my nail. I then slid two crimp rings on and screwed in the -4 fitting. I didn't use the red outer part for obvious reasons. For this ring you're supposed to use the smaller of the two crimps on my hex crimp tool but as tight a fit as this was I decided to use the bigger one. Sure enough it crimped it right down nicely! The upper fo the two rings crimped best but I think between the two of them I'll have a leak proof strog seal. I will pressure test this tomorrow since tonight I'm driving the car and would prefer to leave the clutch alone for now. I don't trust what's on there now but swapping would be awhile an dif it leaks even longer. I've got valve cover leaks to fix and I need to work on some other small stuff so this is on hold till tomorrow. I will report back ASAP on this and I've taken pics too in case this works out. Cross your fingers please! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted September 9, 2001 Share Posted September 9, 2001 I went with a hydraulic throwout bearing like the NASCAR boys have. Screw the slave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted September 9, 2001 Author Share Posted September 9, 2001 So far so good - the fitting is holding. I adjusted the rod out a bit too far though. Clutch releases pretty high and at full travel something in the bellhousing bitches at me (ahem). That will be today's project! Pedal is a little heavy but I think that's mostly my being used to the RX7 and having a weaker leg now that I'm not driving the Mustang with the 10 ton clutch Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg SmileZ Posted November 4, 2002 Share Posted November 4, 2002 Just wondering....when you depress the clutch pedal when does the clutch disengage (how far from the floor)? I installed my slave cylinder (stock T-56) and Tilton 7/8" master cylinder tonight, and would like to compare. Thanks, Greg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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