Hate to ask but should I get a R200 now and then a R200LSD l

[80LS1T]

First of all I have a 1980 280ZX with T-Tops.

 

I am putting in a 93 LT1 and T56 and I have a R180 rearend. I can get a R200 with 3.90 gears for about $150.00. I just replaced the whole suspension including upgraded sway bars. Now after reading the JTR manual, I understood that I should use the rear sway bar unless I have a LSD. Should I just put in the R200 and put a LSD R200 later when I can afford it or should I just save my money and just not beat the hell out of it?

 

Also is the R200 and LSD R200 a straight bolt in? Or do I need special half shafts?

 

Thanks!

[Guest Anonymous]

Are you sure you do not have the R200 diff in the ZX? Check this website out which has an excellant side by side comparison of the R 180 / R200 web page . It may take a long time to find a LSD 200. If you have the 180 you can exchange it for a R200 and get the proper cv joints ready for the LSD (You should be able to find a non LSD R 200 cheaper) or Keep the R180 and search for a good deal at your leisure.

[80LS1T]

Yes I have the R180 with 3.545 gears in it. I have the automatic 1980 280ZX. So yeah I need to upgrade to a R200 or LSD R200.

 

So what do you guys think? Save money and not beat on it for a while and then buy the LSD R200.

 

OR

 

buy the R200 now and take out the sway bar? Then save up for the LSD R200.

 

Thanks!!!!

[Guest Anonymous]

Save your money and search for better deals and info.

[Oltmann]

I'm swapping an LT1 into my 71 and I'm going with a 3.9 R200 with std. half shafts. The main concern for durability is u-joints, the diff itself should be ok unless you like to do long pegleg burnouts.

 

Since you have a ZX it should be easier to swap to the cv-joint setup, look into that if you still have concerns. The LSD is the next step after that.

[Guest De Schmaydee]

....80lt1,

.....i think you should get a r200 (no lsd) and put a quaife lsd in it......s

[80LS1T]

Yeah I would LOVE to put a Quaife differential in but those are so pricey!!!!!!

 

So I can't just bolt in a R200 without CV joints?

 

Thanks,

 

Guy

[Guest Anonymous]

Honestly unless you're running a ton of power out of that LT1 the 180 would probably hold up. It'll wear faster, but unless you do something really harsh with it I bet you could keep it working indefinitely. Worst case, short of totally grenading the R180 and being stranded, if it's going to go it'll probably gradually do so and you'll know, I'd save the money for now and replace it when it really needs it. Now if you're doing it for the gear ratio that's another story entirely.

 

Only reason I've got an R200 in my 240 is that the rear cover on my R180 cracked from my overtightening the drain plug on it. Ended up being much cheaper to just throw a whole used R200 in as a replacement than to buy a new rear cover plate on the 180, course I got a 4.11 R200 to install into it now but hey, that's an upgrade not a replacement.

[Guest 240hybrid]

Im not saying a R180 cant take that power if you dont rag on it, buy I have read about people taking the teeth off their R180's with the a LT1 motor. If your gonna run the standard R200, motorsport auto has heavy-duty u-joints for 32.95 a piece I believe, if your worried about their durability. I'd save for the lsd($400-$500) for better traction. Problem is finding one...I finally got mine after a long and dedicated search.

[jeromio]

There is no question that CV joints are stronger than UJoints in this application (Z Car half shafts). There may have been discussion about whether the added robustness of the CVs are needed or not for a street driven car.

But to my knowledge there's been no argument for Ujoints over CVs.

 

Whether an LSD is required is a matter for discussion. There's not as much need for an LSD in an IRS application as there is in a straight axle. IMO, you really only see the benefit on wet roads or in hard transition turns. And those LSDs are crazy expensive. The used clutch R200s are approaching the price of a Quaife.

 

I think the real issue is the gearing. With the current 3.54, do you like the off the line and highway balance - are the revs in the right range? If so, going to a 3.9 may not be so good. Especially with the T56. Your 1st gear may become an unusable stump pulling granny.

 

For my car, I'm after a 3.54 R200. I'm even considering the R230 - primariy for the lower numerical gear sets.

 

(Granted, I have yet to drive it )

[Pop N Wood]

I wouldn't be too concerned about the U joints either. This topic has gone around several times. There is enough uncertainty about the CV's being stronger than the U joints that it has led to several "discussions".

 

I second the advice about the R180 above. Run it until it starts to go or until you find a killer deal on the R200 of your choice.

 

Good luck on the R200 LSD. The option is popular enough that most sellers know how much what they have is worth. Also be careful in that many times used ones need rebuilding. A number of guys install R230's, but that brings it's own set of headaches. Another option is the Phantom Grip as a budget LSD.

 

After reading these posts for some time, it looks like the Quaiffe is probably one of the better options, even at the price.

 

But don't believe me, spend some time searching the archives.