h4ckfu Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Hey everyone, I was searching for info on this but didn't find anything- if there is a post already I apologize. I have a spare 307 and 350 turbo tranny and I really like the 280z.. Is this swap possible? Which parts are needed? Know anyone in SoCal who'd be willing to do it? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 The external dimensions of a 307 are the same as any 1st gen sbc, so it's the same as swapping in a 327, 350, etc. All the jtr stuff works fine, and any info you find in the forum regarding 350's apply to your 307. Spend a good bit of time searching and reading in the gen 1 forum, and you can do it yourself. jt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJBrian Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Where in socal are you located? Like JT1 said its the same as putting in a 350 sbc its been done thousands of times. Its surprizingly simple. If you got the motor and trans your half way there. You will need mounts, driveshaft, radiator and misc plumbing, wiring and small parts. What year to 280z? The only thing you have to worry about in cali is having to smog it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Straight6Z Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Is it a real 307 or the ever present SBC hodgepodge motors? OEM 307's were only rated at 200hp at their peak. I guess it might would be worth it with headers and a decent carb. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 a 307 is better than a 305 or a 283. A little cam, block hugger headers, better intake and carb will make a good runner. 260hp/300 ftlbs of torque would be an easy number to hit with a cam in the 210 to 215 degree range (at 0.050"). This is about the same power you can get out of your current L28 with a stock turbo with 10 psi of boost and intercooler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jack46 Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 a 307 is better than a 305 or a 283. A little cam, block hugger headers, better intake and carb will make a good runner. 260hp/300 ftlbs of torque would be an easy number to hit with a cam in the 210 to 215 degree range (at 0.050"). This is about the same power you can get out of your current L28 with a stock turbo with 10 psi of boost and intercooler. I mostly agree as long as you build it mild it will be a good performer (~210 cam) I think you can easilly go too large on the cam with a 307. But IF you have to rebuild the 307 move to a 350 simply a cost thing. A mild 350 will out run a great 307, but a mild 307 is a good choice if already built and owned. Some day when all the bugs are worked out of your setup you can always put in a 350. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dr_hunt Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Cam selection should be based off of more parameters than just cubic inch size. Compression, heads, intake, exhaust, carb, car, gears, trans, weight, desired rpm ratio, etc. The 307 has the great 3.25 stroke. If your lucky and it has a large journal crank then you could use it later to build a 327 later on. Otherwise you'll need to find a 327 block or get special bearings to use the 350 block. They work well in the light z's. Of course more is better and you get more from cubic inches, it is all in what you want and how you want to drive it. I'm settling for a mild 10:1 360 cubic inch chevy with mild hyd roller, 228 duration at .050 and .620 lift with a little boost for good measure. See, it's all about what you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted February 20, 2009 Share Posted February 20, 2009 Cam selection should be based off of more parameters than just cubic inch size. Compression, heads, intake, exhaust, carb, car, gears, trans, weight, desired rpm ratio, etc. The 307 has the great 3.25 stroke. If your lucky and it has a large journal crank then you could use it later to build a 327 later on. Otherwise you'll need to find a 327 block or get special bearings to use the 350 block. They work well in the light z's. Of course more is better and you get more from cubic inches, it is all in what you want and how you want to drive it. I'm settling for a mild 10:1 360 cubic inch chevy with mild hyd roller, 228 duration at .050 and .620 lift with a little boost for good measure. See, it's all about what you want. I'm assuming the 307 engine is stock. So he shouldn't put much cam in it. 210 to 215 degrees at 0.050" is about the max for a low cr 307 with stock heads and valve train. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bLaCkONbLaCk Posted February 21, 2009 Share Posted February 21, 2009 i personally wouldnt put a 307 in it they dont make that much power even built ive seen it. it might work but i personally wouldnt do it if you have the turbo 350 tranny already i would try selling the 307 because there is this place in alabama you can buy a 350 dirt cheap im talking like 800 dollars cheap fuel injected with wiring harness and computer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ninja240z Posted February 22, 2009 Share Posted February 22, 2009 This engine stock for stock will still perform better than a stock L28. Its all about seat of the pants tire smoking torque. Add a 600 cfm edelbrock carb with a performer intake,set of headers and a power shot NOS and laugh at the skeptics. I found this video with a 307 in a truck almost double the weight of a 280Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4ckfu Posted February 23, 2009 Author Share Posted February 23, 2009 Thank You so much for all your replies! I'm going to go ahead with this project. . Unfortunately I'm not very mechanically inclined and I'm still learning- so it's probably not worth it to try anything on my own I'm currently looking for a 280Z, preferably one without an engine/trans, in good enough condition for the swap- as most my $ will be going to mechanics for labor .. CJ- I'm in Hawthorne, CA. . Question is, should I find a mechanic who specializes in "muscle" cars or one who specializes in Z's lol.. I've gotten two "no can do's" so far- so the search continues Thank You again for your advice- I will study what's on here and see if I can work up the confidence to try. At least it will be a good excuse to buy all sorts of neat tools lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CJBrian Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 The jeep club I'm in is based out of the south bay area. And some of the guys live in Hawthorne. Anyways I was told there is a Z shop in the south bay area but I dont know the name or location. Sorry I am planning on doing all my own work except paint so I dont know of any places except Motorsport Auto in Orange and Beta Motorsports in Brea area. It might be worth your time and 25 bucks to buy the JTR manual and read it to see if it is something you think you can do yourself or with a friends help. Just so you know the only year 280z that is smog exempt in cali is the 1975. The later model 74 260z's are almost identical to the 280z's. Good luck and let me know if you need any help cuz I'm doing the same thing you are. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pyro Posted February 23, 2009 Share Posted February 23, 2009 most likely will be cheaper to buy a Z that already has a v-conversion done and is running. paying a shop to do an engine swap will be very expensive. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
h4ckfu Posted February 26, 2009 Author Share Posted February 26, 2009 The jeep club I'm in is based out of the south bay area. And some of the guys live in Hawthorne. Anyways I was told there is a Z shop in the south bay area but I dont know the name or location. Sorry I am planning on doing all my own work except paint so I dont know of any places except Motorsport Auto in Orange and Beta Motorsports in Brea area. It might be worth your time and 25 bucks to buy the JTR manual and read it to see if it is something you think you can do yourself or with a friends help. Just so you know the only year 280z that is smog exempt in cali is the 1975. The later model 74 260z's are almost identical to the 280z's. Good luck and let me know if you need any help cuz I'm doing the same thing you are. Brian Thanks again! I'll probably be throwing some questions your way lol.. The shop was probably "Z World" in Manhattan Beach, but they closed down last year. Frankie (the mechanic) did great work, I remember from when I had my 91 TT (that's just a memory now also, heh).. will keep looking around for a smog exempt 260/280.. I'd hate for this engine to go to waste Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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