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Why the bad rep on the CA18?


AkumaNoZeta

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The other things you need to remember when picking your engine is $$$ and experience. This is your first build right? So i remember my first build and because of my lack of experience and $$$ i couldn't complete the project. Not trying to put you down just trying to keep you....practical. There nothing wrong with trying something new but for a first project you might not want to reinvent the wheel. Maybe just go the RB25det or throw in a V8. Both have good power and are easy to do. Just my 2 cents.

 

Andy

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I just got a reliable job (been doing odd jobs here and there for people so I would have a job for a while but it soon went away, ironically with that option the harder I worked the less money I got) so now I'm thinking about buying this 2+2 S130 that has a L28E, and 5 speed as a parts car. I figure $1500 and I get an engine, 5 speed tranny, R200 (I have a shortnose with 4.08 gear I got for free already but I want something a little more bolt-in and I rather have the lower gear ratio)and CV shafts.

 

I think I would also use the S130 as a second car so I can do the chassis work I want to do. After I'm happy with the chassis I can drive the S30 around again and prepare the L28E to be swapped in because I don't know how long the L28 already in my S30 will last. It's nice having a reliable paycheck finally. After I got my 260Z running I was very happy with the character of the car so instead of making a fast car I rather have something inspired by the Z432 so I was thinking eventually a 2JZ-GE with ITBs. They're cheap and common.

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  • 3 months later...

Yea, I have a buddy who tinkers around with s12s. His words on the CA20's bottom end... "the rods are so weak they bend of their own free will at anything more than about 200hp, and not very far after that, its the block itself that goes." The CA18DET bottom end is MUCH stronger than the CA20Es, or the CA18ETs. My advice is stay away from both of those. For more information on that setup, Check out www.club-s12.org

 

 

*ninja edit* That same guy has 3(!) FJ20 engines, and I'm sure he could be persuaded to part with one if your interested.

 

Got this off of wikipeida:

There was never a factory-produced twin-cam CA 2.0L motor, nor a turbo version. However the blocks are the similar, and it is possible to fit the DOHC CA18DE/T twincam head to the SOHC CA20 block. However the DOHC/SOHC manifolds are different and the timing pulley/belts are not compatible. Despite this, CA20DET turbos have been built. The cheaper alternative to a CA20DET is a newer SR20DET, which will cost you a lot less in the long run, considering it is a newer engine. Parts for the SR20 are cheaper and more readily available.

This is no easy task, however. The rods of the normally aspirated CA20 series of motors are not up to the task, and many tuners use modified Mitsubishi 4G63 con-rods in this application. With a larger bore than the CA18, custom, flat topped and forged pistons are a must if boost is to be reliable. The CA20 also did not include the crank girdle support which vastly increased the harmonic resistance of the CA18. But the crank girdle from a CA18DET block will fit the CA20 main caps. The CA20 also did not include the under piston oil squirters of the CA18, but like the crank girdle, oil squirters from a CA18DET block can be fitted to the CA20 block.

Tomei and JUN of Japan produced 2 litre stoker kits for the CA18. If you search around the internet you are able to find these parts but they will not come without an expensive price tag. There is also a company called Norris Designs that produces a CA20 stroker kit as well as a CA20 engine.

Edited by 72s30
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