KasbeKZ Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 back ground: i just changed the clutch to a new exedy clutch. new pressure plate, disk, TOB, and pilot bushing. everything looked the same as the parts that i took off. i also put a used fidanza flywheel on. no problems with it. pressure plate and flywheel are properly torqued, and the pilot bushing is pushed in to exactly where the old one was (not too far in the crank). symptoms: as soon as i got everything put back together, i pushed the clutch in, and got nothing. nothing at all. i bled it, got very little response, lots of air, and the air never stopped. so, i said "the master is bad" (because i had already replaced the slave when i got the car, so it's not too old). so i got a new master from napa. put it on, adjusted the clutch out to hopefully make sure that the TOB was getting pushed far enough. the old master looked pretty bad. lots of sludge and stuff anyway, back to the symptoms. the master change made the pedel instantly feel better. after a pump or two, the clutch felt normal. so after bleeding (start at bottom, then top, back to bottom, back to top, then bottom again), the clutch still goes strait to the floor on the first pump. after 2 or 3, it feels fairly normal. watching it underneath, the fork is getting pushed back a fair amount. about 1/4-1/2 inch away from the back of the hole that it's in. so i look and look for problems. i check that the TOB is not on backwards. it's not. it's fine. i make sure the fork is touching in all the right places. looks fine as far as i can see. the slave is not leaking. then, i pushed on the fork with my hand. i find that i can push it about 1/4-1/2 inch back, by hand, without seeing ANY movement from the TOB. then, the slave cylinder extends because it's under pressure, meets the fork, and takes pressure to be pushed back. ideas: in summary, the clutch takes a pump to get feeling good. after being let to sit for 3 seconds, it goes back to the floor upon the first pump. there is no more air in the line. so, it's possible that the slave is bad. i expect first thing tomorrow i will be running out to buy a slave, and maybe a new line. other than that, i can push the clutch fork back almost a half inch with my hand before it even moves the TOB. this can possibly explain why it takes a pump to get the clutch pressurized enough to push the fork back that far. BUT! after a few pumps, the peddle does feel exactly how it should, and always has. the fork gets pushed back to the same spot that it always has (going by visual memory), and the clutch is seemingly dis-engaged. tomorrow, i will be checking to see if it is disengaged enough to allow slip. i'll test by starting the engine and pushing the clutch in and seeing if i can make the sound of the spinning front shaft go away. please throw some ideas at me. it's strange. the fact that i can push the fork by hand is strange. but the fact that after a pump, i can get it to feel normal is strange. i don't see what i could have put back together wrong. i even tested it while the tranny was on the floor to make sure everything was moving right. it's such a simple mechanism! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper Posted February 27, 2009 Share Posted February 27, 2009 Is there a return spring on the clutch fork/slave.... and is it too strong? " then, the slave cylinder extends because it's under pressure," If your foot is off the clutch...there should not be any pressure. Maybe an internal spring in the slave.? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KasbeKZ Posted February 27, 2009 Author Share Posted February 27, 2009 that's something i hadn't thought of. there are no springs that i know of on that side. but extending while there is no pressure on the peddle may be a problem. i'll check that out. thanks for the advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehannum Posted February 28, 2009 Share Posted February 28, 2009 I had an issue quite like that with my Z32, and it turned out to be the rubber line to the slave. It was ballooning under pressure, and took 3 maybe 4 pumps to get the clutch working after. I replaced it with a braided steel line, and it's been fine ever since (though my 4th gear synchro is now worse for the wear). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtbiker245 Posted March 2, 2009 Share Posted March 2, 2009 also, keep in mind on z32 clutches, there is 2 spots to bleed the air out of the lines and if you dont use both, you wont get all the air out. 1 of the spots is the slave cylinder. The other spot is under the hood of the car on the passenger side inner fender. Its a metal line that comes up to a metal block of sorts that has a bleed valve on it. NOTE: I have only ever seen this bleed port on TWIN TURBO Z's. Alot of guys take this bleed point line out to clean up the engine bay, but if yours is still there, you will want to bleed it, that will probably be your problem.... hope that helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KasbeKZ Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 i have a clutch line on the way. i hope that's it! as for the two ports, yes i'm very aware of both of them. i'm under the impression that they are bother required because if the top one wasn't there, then there would be more opportunity for air to get trapped in the bottom of the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jehannum Posted March 4, 2009 Share Posted March 4, 2009 i have a clutch line on the way. i hope that's it! as for the two ports, yes i'm very aware of both of them. i'm under the impression that they are bother required because if the top one wasn't there, then there would be more opportunity for air to get trapped in the bottom of the line. When you bleed out the bottom, is it all foamy? That was my symptom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tattoo Deuce Posted March 31, 2009 Share Posted March 31, 2009 (edited) hate to keep beating a dead horse, but I have a problem. This is my first z, and I am trying to educat myself. The tranny has been converted to 5 speed from a 4. The clutch engages at about an inch or two from the floor, with no more adjustment to the master cylinder.......The slave rod is way out of the cylinder in order to touch the fork.....I need more clutch, but there is no more adjustment. I cant find anything unless you already know z cars....I dont know tranny or engine numbers......I am having a hard time here. Any help? Are the components matched wrong or something? There is also a lot of clunking in the shifting.......SOrry mods, this is for a 300zx, mine is a 78 280, can this post be moved? Edited March 31, 2009 by Tattoo Deuce wrong thread placement Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.