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Pressure washing engine / prepping engine for paint fiasco


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Well, my block is rebuilt and I had everything mocked up and looking good so I decided that it was time for a coat of fresh engine enamel before I drop the engine back in. I taped everything up and plugged all of the necessary holes and went to town with a nylon brush, industrial grade degreaser, and the pressure washer. Looks fantastic now!

My engine had been sitting outside on a stand for awhile before I got it so a lot of the bolt holes had accumulated some dirt/dust and I wanted to make sure my threads were clean. Nothing the pressure washer couldn't take care of, right?

Now, for some reason I forgot to screw my oil pressure sending unit in, and before I realized it I had directly sprayed it with the pressure washer and a shot of degreaser as I was going over all of my other threaded holes...

DOH! Sometimes you think you're an idiot, but at other times you just know you are... now is definitely one of those times! :nono:

After I realized what I had done I screed the sending unit in to keep any more water from making it in and finished scrubbing my block.

 

So, what's the best was of taking care of this?

Drop my pan and run oil through the sending unit hole to flush everything out?

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Just my opinion but I would blow air followed by degreaser followed by air followed by 5W30 oil under some pressure... maybe alternate oil with small amounts of air. then change your oil. Should be fine, I would think. In fact, this is probably overkill.

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Who rebuilt the block?? If you had it done at a machine shop, I would call them up and ask them what to do.

 

I would NOT trust everything to WD40 in this instance. To tell the truth, I use WD40 for little more than a glorified cleaning solvent anymore. PB Blaster is good, but Sea Foam Deep Creep is the BEST penetrating lube spray I have found yet. Its pricey, but WELL worth it, especially if you keep a $20 can of WD 40 around to use in bulk and then apply the $7 can of Deep Creep sparingly.

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The block was rebuilt by the PO. Well, I got it in a rebuilt state from the PO. Not sure if he did the work himself or not, but he knew his stuff so I'm not worried there.

 

I spent the day finishing everything after paint. It came out very well and it's ready to go back in the car after I figure out what to do about this.

 

I was planning on starting out with a liberal application of WD-40 and then running a quart of oil through it and out my drain plug. Any other suggestions?

I know I'll be changing my oil very shortly after I fire her up and set my rings, so I know it will get flushed out that way, but I still want to do something else before that.

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DOH! Sometimes you think you're an idiot, but at other times you just know you are... now is definitely one of those times! :nono:

 

 

So was this one the think or know times? Could you clarify that for us?

 

And I don't see what the problem is, just take everything apart, use a hair dryer and dry everything off.......

 

 

 

 

There's the sarcasm coming out again.

 

Chuck

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I'm sure you're worried since this is your brand new rebuilt motor, but really, this wont be the first time water has been in the oil of a L motor.... I've popped more than my fair share of headgaskets. I agree with ckolander, take the pan off dry it out with a hairdryer.

I wouldn't use wd-40, I'm hesitant to put anything in my motor but oil.

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I don't see this as a big deal. Remove quill shaft. Cut handle off long Chinese screwdriver. Chuck up in drill motor. Switch to reverse. Insert molested driver into oil pump. Spin until shop floor is covered in oil :wink:

 

Just say'n... if your concerned, pump it out.

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