bodaciousllama Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 Right now I'm away at school but I found this Z on my home craigslist and asked my dad to go take a look at it. He took these pictures: It hasn't been driven in 4 years, so I want to know the basics that I'd need to get done in order to get it going again. I'm going home for spring break in 3 weeks, and I'd really like to get the car running by the end of that week so I can drive it back up here (~250 miles) So far, I figure new tires, brakes, belts and hoses, carb rebuild, wheel bearings, clutch. Dad also thinks that the suspension needs work. I figure if I can get a list of what I need and get it all shipped home before that week, I can get stuff done relatively quick Also, taking into account the cost of getting it running again, what would be a fair price to offer? My dad is thinking 2200 but neither of us really know the cost of getting this thing back up again. Thanks guys. -Ravi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 All I have to say is you dont pay even $2000 for a Z that hasnt run in 4 years. It looks clean regarding rust but still, thats alot for a inoperable car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rturbo 930 Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 All I have to say is you dont pay even $2000 for a Z that hasnt run in 4 years. It looks clean regarding rust in the back but still, thats alot for a inoperable car.Unless it has no rust whatsoever. I didn't see any. Car looks complete and original as well. With some work, I bet that paint would look pretty nice too. While I would generally agree with Challenger, that looks like a GREAT base to start with, IMO. I wouldn't have much issue with paying $2000 for that car, but lets see what others have to say. Oh, and I would put suspension ahead of clutch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodaciousllama Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 EDIT: Anyone know what kind of wheels these are? Dad couldn't find any rust, it's a CA car so I wouldn't expect it to be TOO much of a problem. I don't know how flexible he is on the price, but if I can get a compound cost of getting this car going again, I'm sure he'll be open to negotiation. EDIT: so far for suspension, as per http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=114631, I've got the following cart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 My '78 280z was purchased in SoCal 5 years ago for $1600. It was in good, running condition (minus the AC) with no rust. The suspension also needed an overhaul, but overall the car was way cleaner than the pictures you posted. I think 2200 is a bit too much for a car that's been sitting for years, especially since you're going to need to dump money to fix a bunch of stuff. Edit: It also looks like the door panels were redone, and done nicely, which is a plus. Places to check for rust; Floorboards, wheelwells, battery tray, front lip of hood, spare tire recess, fuel tank, framerails, under the cowl panel, radiator supports. Maybe its a trick of photography but the drivers side tail light looks a little burnt... those are difficult to get your hands on at a decent price. If it really even matters to you, those side stripe rubber "ding guards" have dried out and shrunk, you'll be able to tell when you look at them in person. But I'd be more worried about the weatherstripping in the car. Anything rubber in a california/southwest US car is usually dryrotted by now since its been exposed to the sun. Many of my plastic parts, and pieces of rubber weatherstrip, even my STEERING wheel, would crumble to dust when touched. I'm not discouraging you from getting the car, looks like a great project candidate, just giving you ideas on stuff to complain about so you can lower the price. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skib Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 I payed 1800 for my 73' with little rust, exhaust and a 5 speed and used it as a DD from the day i got it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodaciousllama Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 I realize that there are plenty of cars around, its just that this one is right in my backyard, and if I can justify the cost of getting the car running again to the owner, he may let it go at a much lower price. Apparently this guy is a science teacher at the high school I went to, so I have no reason to believe he's a stubborn SOB. Plus, this way I have the opportunity to get my hands dirty and learn something, rather than buying a car that just works (although I doubt that's the case with these cars we love) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 If that is the original paint that 'might' be a good car, but I still think over 1500 for a non running Z is alot, of course I'm not used to West Coast prices. There is a big rust spot on the hatch and looks like a little on the roof. Did he get pictures of the spare tire well or battery tray? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodaciousllama Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 If that is the original paint that 'might' be a good car, but I still think over 1500 for a non running Z is alot, of course I'm not used to West Coast prices. There is a big rust spot on the hatch and looks like a little on the roof. Did he get pictures of the spare tire well or battery tray? No, I'll ask him to go take a look at it later this week once I've figured out how much more I'm going to have to invest in it. I'm not entirely sure that it IS rust on the hatch, it might just be a leaf or some sort of debris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skib Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 anything over 1500 for a non-op is alot, unless its got some sweet rare/spendy parts on it or something. regardless of what kind of car its a non-op car thats been sitting for 4 years it looks like a good shape Z but hes asking far to much IMO Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 No, I'll ask him to go take a look at it later this week once I've figured out how much more I'm going to have to invest in it. I'm not entirely sure that it IS rust on the hatch, it might just be a leaf or some sort of debris Yeah those are good places to judge the overall condition of the car most times, but always check the frame rails. My battery tray and hatch had rust but the frame rails are solid on my car, and like skib said, it was good because it came with alot of parts. That's rust, sorry buddy [Notice the black streak underneath the spot, and that's the most common place that hatches rust, in the bottom corner] Whatever Z you get you're going to have to deal with rust to some extent, it just depends on how much you are willing to spend initially to not worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bodaciousllama Posted March 3, 2009 Author Share Posted March 3, 2009 That's rust, sorry buddy [Notice the black streak underneath the spot, and that's the most common place that hatches rust, in the bottom corner] say it aint so haha well, I guess rust repair will be another skill to add to my repertoire. If only I could afford Betamotorsports' CF hatch... Back to the original intent of the thread, however. What should be replaced in order to bring a non-op back to life? Assuming, of course, that the car ran perfectly before being shut down. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FlatBlack Posted March 3, 2009 Share Posted March 3, 2009 About the hatch - Parts cars are plentiful and I'm sure you can get a hold of a better hatch for cheap if that one is really bad. [my car came with another hatch] About the motor - There's no telling without messing around with the car, and that's assuming the car actually did run 'perfectly' [good compression, carbs are good, etc] before it was parked. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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