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rturbo 930

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Everything posted by rturbo 930

  1. So what was wrong with the 280Z shell that you decided to use a 240Z shell that had been in an accident + needed a bunch of stuff bought for it? It didn't look that bad.
  2. +1 on the Z Car Garage kit, by all accounts I've read, they did the work so that you don't have to. It's extremely expensive, but if you value the ability to literally just bolt something onto your stock car and have it work with no hassle, then maybe it's worth the money. You think about the amount of time you might spend online researching the issues another kit might have, and then the money spent to resolve them, and suddenly the price tag doesn't seem so bad. I certainly have my eye on the kit. I believe they come with extremely thorough instructions as well.
  3. Not if it's been changed. Wouldn't be the first time someone swapped a VIN. I'd like a photo of the hatch area as well.
  4. Looks like it has the piece on the back under the tail lights that 77/78 280Zs had, so I'm thinking it's probably a late 280Z. I doubt anyone would put one on if it didn't already have it.
  5. There's no reason you can't just drive it around as is. That said, you're in Montana which is dry to start with, and the car is garaged, so it's not getting rained on, etc. I'm assuming your garage is dry. I doubt it'll rust to any significant degree even if left bare. Get some basic black spray paint from Home Depot and put a coat on. Should be fine.
  6. The roof piece doesn't look too worrying to me. Looks like someone put lots of bondo over the whole car, and that piece started lifting as a result of the surface rust you see there. You'll need to treat the surface rust, but it doesn't look serious at all - at least from what we can see. I would remove the bondo and make certain there's no unseen issues. As for your fender, I would continue to remove the bondo there, and see what exactly is going on there. The welds make me think it's someone's attempt at making a straight piece of sheet into a curved piece by cutting pie cuts and welding them up. It also appears to be the inner part of the fender, not the outer part, which appears to have been cut off, and left as is. I'm thinking the fender lips were either rusted, or cut off for fender flares which were later removed. I think the easiest way of fixing this, assuming I'm right, is to purchase an inner wheel well, and partial outer quarter, and weld those in. You should also check out the other side since, whether it's as a result or rust or old fender flares, both sides probably have work done to them. I'd start by looking at the inner wheel well, no sense removing paint if you don't need to.
  7. Aluminum block M52 isn't that common here in the US.
  8. Welcome! Looks like the project has the hard stuff out of the way (rust and body work).
  9. I don't see the point of this. If you want a Z, get a Z, if you want a Fiat 124, get a Fiat 124. You have two completely different body styles, one old, one new, at best, this is going to look like a cobbled together franken-car. I generally find that new parts stick out like a sore thumb on old cars, and vice versa. You'd be better off getting an MX5 RF, and doing something custom with that than trying to make a Z part fit, or just getting a regular MX5 and doing a custom hard top. You could take molds from a Z and make a fiberglass hardtop based off of that if you wanted, but cutting up a Z and trying to put the steel roof section on the roadster is a bad idea, and will result in one less Z available.
  10. This is the guy who painted it, and I found two comments on two posts from him saying it's BMW Monte Carlo blue. Unfortunately, I can't really find any good photos of Monte Carlo blue that look similar to the Z color, but I'll have to take his word for it, since he'd be the guy to know. So I guess I was wrong after all and it's not the very similar Aston Martin color.
  11. I put quite a bit of effort to finding out what it was a while back, and I found some cached FB comment by them that mentioned that color. Couldn't find the FB post, but, looking at Aston Martins painted in that color and comparing it to the Z they did, I'm 90% sure that's the color. Edit: Somehow I was able to get to the FB post this time, looks like it was used on a 510. I still think this is the color they used on the 240Z as well, although it'd be a little weird to use the same one on two projects. https://www.facebook.com/142042485827055/posts/heres-a-nice-update-from-our-painter-cios-restoring-the-dream-on-the-1968-datsun/1126004774097483/ I don't think it's 115. It looks a bit light for that, and the hue doesn't seem quite right. Of course, trying to determine color based on comparison of online photos is hard due to editing, lighting, etc. Looking at these two photos though (and many others), I'm reasonably convinced it's the same color. It looks very similar to me.
  12. No, it's not that, it's the one in my post above.
  13. Early or late? Early ones will have 240 style rails.
  14. 240 or 280? If it's a 240, I'd put em in like factory with spot welds since they have a flange on them. The 280 rails he sells I don't believe have a flange, and I wouldn't want to weld them directly to the floor pan due to the lack of surface area the rail contacts the floor with.
  15. Since you have a tube, and not the U shaped rails from the factory, I think I would drill a bunch of holes in the floor pan and spotweld to the topside of the rail, and also stitch them on the side on the bottom side of the floor. Use a weld thru primer on the top of the rail and bottom of the floor so you don't end up with rust in that joint, since if water gets in, it's unlikely to get out. What you could also do, is cut the floor in half longways, and bend the edges 90 degrees to make your flange, and spot/stitch weld as needed. That way you don't end up with the possibility of moisture gathering between the floor and rail.
  16. Not just you. I think it's the forum software, since classiczcars has the same problem. Must've been an update or something.
  17. Why not just weld on a piece of steel like everyone else does? Keep it simple.
  18. They mount on the top of the rear shock towers. You should see a couple threaded holes on the plate on top.
  19. No, that frame rail is absolutely not too far gone to repair, and those of us on the east coast would consider that to be pretty minor rust. The car is probably overpriced though unless it's otherwise mint condition. Based on your location I'd be surprised if the car has really serious rust issues hiding beneath the paint, though there may be more rust than you can immediately see.
  20. Yeah I've noticed that too, so it's not you. Also here, and also on classiczcars, the new posts feed only shows in expanded form, and not condensed, must have been some sort of update.
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