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rturbo 930

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Everything posted by rturbo 930

  1. I'll echo what grannyknot said. As for the indent in the middle, I would leave it, and just smooth it out. It'll add a bit of visual interest to the otherwise smooth rear end, I find a totally plain/smoothed out rear end on these cars doesn't look great, too much space with not enough going on. Also not really keen on the idea of smoothing that bit out by just welding in more metal - seems like an opportunity for a moisture trap to create rust to me.
  2. "Mark site read" in top right, next to "Unread content".
  3. It doesn't look like the sides of the roof structure are bent, just the front upper windshield frame. I'm not sure how the structure goes together, but you could possibly remove that piece by cutting spotwelds, and welding in a new one. DCW Classic on instagram is going to be taking on a much more severely damaged car, so if you have instagram you may want to follow them, as they are going to be documenting the restoration. If I'm right, and the roof structure can be repaired in that way, then the rest of the repair should be pretty similar to a typical roof reskin. Also, for the
  4. I think it's the punctuation in the thread title.
  5. I see no benefit to this swap. The engine is in the very front of those cars, since the front axles come out of the transmission like a transaxle. The stock motor is low in the chassis and short in length, and likely lighter than the RB. The RB is long, heavy, and has more weight higher up. It's going to make the car worse, and you're going to put a lot of effort and expense into ruining your car. I also doubt it'd even fit within the confines of the stock body work.
  6. Nice work! I like the direction you took on this one.
  7. Why are you looking to do this? You'll need to change/add a number of brackets, and the result will be a 240Z with the wrong dash, and I would guess it's the less aesthetically desirable dash as well. My suggestion is to find the correct dash.
  8. Check out classiczcars.com, there are discussions over there on suitable replacement materials for the factory sound deadening, and the site is generally geared more toward stock restorations than this site, which is geared to modifications. I think you'll find yourself very much at home there with your goals for the car.
  9. You may be out of luck, as I can't think of a single flare that only flares the body by an inch, or less. If you're only looking for 1/2" - 1", I think you're looking at something custom. Pulling the fenders may be your best bet if you only need just a little bit more room.
  10. That's probably the one complaint I have about the Jenvey ITBs - they just don't look right. I've wondered if stripping them of their coating and giving them a more appropriate finish would help, but I guess this is another way of addressing that lol.
  11. Looking good! Hard to go wrong with blue on a Z. What's the color from?
  12. My car (not Z) sits about 4" off the ground, I wouldn't want to go any lower than that. Additionally, these cars are meant to be driven, lowering them such that they can barely be driven is just stupid. They're sports cars, not show cars.
  13. Impressive as always. Good to see your car is up and running again too, as last I recall you had some kind of failure that took it off the road.
  14. I have a motor with an N47 with liners removed, and was ported/polished that the previous owner built. I've done some research on the matter, and my understanding is that removing the liners is a bad idea. I believe the reason is that the ports end up too big, and the air velocity ends up too slow, which hurts flow, although you really research that for yourself further for the details. My understanding is that a head with exhaust liners can be ported and polished for some decent gains while keeping the liners in place, and for a more serious build, you'll want to use a head that never had th
  15. Like title says. Tried to report a spam post but I get this error. I'm also noticing that SeattleJester is no longer a mod, so looks like we might need some new mods too to take care of the occasional spam.
  16. In that case, I recommend you sign up on https://www.classiczcars.com/ as HybridZ is dedicated to modifying Z cars. Looks like a very nice car and I'm glad you're keeping it original. I don't think undercoating it would devalue it, especially since it serves to preserve the car.
  17. So what was wrong with the 280Z shell that you decided to use a 240Z shell that had been in an accident + needed a bunch of stuff bought for it? It didn't look that bad.
  18. +1 on the Z Car Garage kit, by all accounts I've read, they did the work so that you don't have to. It's extremely expensive, but if you value the ability to literally just bolt something onto your stock car and have it work with no hassle, then maybe it's worth the money. You think about the amount of time you might spend online researching the issues another kit might have, and then the money spent to resolve them, and suddenly the price tag doesn't seem so bad. I certainly have my eye on the kit. I believe they come with extremely thorough instructions as well.
  19. Looks like it has the piece on the back under the tail lights that 77/78 280Zs had, so I'm thinking it's probably a late 280Z. I doubt anyone would put one on if it didn't already have it.
  20. There's no reason you can't just drive it around as is. That said, you're in Montana which is dry to start with, and the car is garaged, so it's not getting rained on, etc. I'm assuming your garage is dry. I doubt it'll rust to any significant degree even if left bare. Get some basic black spray paint from Home Depot and put a coat on. Should be fine.
  21. The roof piece doesn't look too worrying to me. Looks like someone put lots of bondo over the whole car, and that piece started lifting as a result of the surface rust you see there. You'll need to treat the surface rust, but it doesn't look serious at all - at least from what we can see. I would remove the bondo and make certain there's no unseen issues. As for your fender, I would continue to remove the bondo there, and see what exactly is going on there. The welds make me think it's someone's attempt at making a straight piece of sheet into a curved piece by cutting pie cuts and
  22. Aluminum block M52 isn't that common here in the US.
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