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rturbo 930

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Everything posted by rturbo 930

  1. Z Car Garage makes a great bolt in solution that appears to be able to handle plenty of power, much more than what you're planning. Expensive, but totally bolt in. The super 8.8 setup basically requires that you change your entire rear end, and if you're putting big brakes, 5 lug, etc. in the rear, then you kind of have to do the front now too. Lots of scope creep, vs simply dropping in the ZCG axles and being done.
  2. I'm assuming that head was for an NA build, doesn't removing the liners ruin the flow of the head? I have an N47 with liners removed, I was under the assumption it was junk based on research, and was planning to replace it with the N42 I have... eventually.
  3. They're offering it in three types, A, B, and C. From what I can gather from the PDF, A comes bare, B and C come with a choice of valve guides and valve seats. http://www.pams-japan.com/30cafe/project.php
  4. Yeah I've been following that. Pretty impressive project, it's basically the ultimate N42 head. And it'll only cost you about $5500 to $6800 depending which of the three types you go for. Unrealistic for most of us unfortunately, but for those looking for big power, might be worth it.
  5. Doesn't look that bad. Why not clean it up and reuse it?
  6. Alright, like title says I'm looking to see if anyone has a copy of this video from years ago, pre-2010. It was a video of a Z doing a quarter mile run, it was a burnt orange color, had ZG flares, and bronze or dark gray 6 or 7 spoke modern wheels. I think it was recorded in Japan. It ran something like a low 10, was powered by, IIRC, an L28 stroker turbo that was clearly making a lot of power, and what I assume was a sequential, but maybe it was a dog box, I'm not sure. It was hosted on google videos so I suspect it's gone from the internet unless someone saved it. Long shot, but maybe someone has it.
  7. That's better, looks like you've got a solid starting point.
  8. Welcome! Can't see your images, I think you need to change the format. I have no idea what .heic is.
  9. Is the engine builder Datsun Spirit? He's a capable engine builder by all appearances, but some time ago I noticed that the estimated power figures that he lists on his site with his different engine builds went from being crank HP to wheel HP. As crank HP figures, they were impressive, but feasible, but as WHP numbers, I think they're outlandish, and I question his ability to follow through. 350whp would be about 400hp+ at the crank which is what the all out drag race motors they build in Japan make.
  10. 2015 Mustang rear brakes that are probably 13" and Toyota brakes up front I don't think is going to be a good combo given that the front brakes do most of the braking. So I'd upgrade those to something more appropriate. Nothing really sticks out to me as a major problem except maybe sway bars, I would probably just upgrade as needed. Sounds like you've already done a ton of upgrades already if you've got a Ford 8.8 diff and a turbo LS. Since it's just a street car I don't know how quickly you'll find the limit of the components you have, and I don't know your driving style, if you're just hammering it on straights, or trying to push it in corners. Another thing that just occurred to me, which I don't see any mention of, is the structure of your car. Do you have subframe connectors or any other chassis strengthening? If not, I would do subframe connectors at a minimum.
  11. Who is the builder? Datsun Spirit? 300whp is a ton of power for an L stroker, and 350whp is all out race build territory, unless you get one of the DOHC heads that member Derek has been working on. What is the intended use for the car? If you want a street car to cruise around in, I'd go with the turbo option, since you can have a pretty tame and streetable 300whp turbo engine. Probably a lot cheaper too compared to getting that kind of power out of an NA stroker.
  12. No, you can pull the engine complete with transmission. Helps if you have a load leveler.
  13. Based on what I've read, removing the liners ruins the port flow because the port is too big.
  14. There's an article about the KN20 head on Road and Track, nice to see this thing get some recognition. https://www.roadandtrack.com/car-culture/a37360407/datsunworks-kn20-head-brings-dohc-to-the-240z/
  15. Yes, I don't think they look good. A good H4 headlight is plenty bright and looks appropriate.
  16. https://www.instagram.com/p/CR-vb6TrSjL/ https://www.zcarblog.com/2021/07/30/performance/datsunworks-twin-cam-power-for-your-l-series-engine.html 350hp/248ft lb at the wheels. Pretty damned impressive.
  17. I have no direct experience with them, but I know they've got a >500hp turbo L running them, along with at least one LS swap.
  18. Agreed. And I really don't understand the secretiveness for anything outside of a competitive environment, which this is not. You would think he would at least tell Derek, the manufacturer of the head, what the numbers are.
  19. IMO the rear end is the least of your concerns here, that amount of torque is going to destroy your chassis if you don't reinforce it thoroughly. Honestly, I think that engine is totally inappropriate for a Z to begin with. It weights, what, 1200lbs? A 280Z weighs only about 2600lbs. I can't imagine it drives well.
  20. I thought that ZCG car had the OS Giken head, did they build another motor?
  21. Looks nice enough, except for the flares, which looks like cheap ebay flares. I don't know if you want to flare the car, but that would be a pretty big negative for me, especially if the fenders have been cut. The front grill looks a little silly too. Looks like someone found a nice example, and then did a couple cheap and poorly executed mods. Photos don't show any close ups of the usual rust spots though, or details of any areas that were modified, so kind of hard to get a good idea of its real condition. I also don't know how much work has actually been done to it, is it a mostly original car with a few mods, or has it had a paint job and an interior too? If the latter, I'd look at it really hard based on the quality of the more obvious work done.
  22. You are aware that the front clip you bought isn't going to be identical to the one that came off the car right? What year is the front clip from? A later 280Z front clip will have even more differences than an early one. Why did the car need a front clip versus simply repairing the one that was there? Primary difference will be the radiator support. I don't know what your end goal for the car is, but if you ever sell that radiator support is gonna be a red flag for a good number of buyers. And what alignment issues are you having? Without specifics there's not much we can do to help.
  23. I'll echo what grannyknot said. As for the indent in the middle, I would leave it, and just smooth it out. It'll add a bit of visual interest to the otherwise smooth rear end, I find a totally plain/smoothed out rear end on these cars doesn't look great, too much space with not enough going on. Also not really keen on the idea of smoothing that bit out by just welding in more metal - seems like an opportunity for a moisture trap to create rust to me.
  24. "Mark site read" in top right, next to "Unread content".
  25. It doesn't look like the sides of the roof structure are bent, just the front upper windshield frame. I'm not sure how the structure goes together, but you could possibly remove that piece by cutting spotwelds, and welding in a new one. DCW Classic on instagram is going to be taking on a much more severely damaged car, so if you have instagram you may want to follow them, as they are going to be documenting the restoration. If I'm right, and the roof structure can be repaired in that way, then the rest of the repair should be pretty similar to a typical roof reskin. Also, for the record, the correct way to remove a sunroof is by replacing the skin, as has been documented a few times here and on classiczcars.com, not by cutting the pillars and welding a new roof on. The pillars have multiple layers of metal in them, and if you just cut and paste, you wont be able to reweld the inner layers, and the structure will be compromised. As far as I'm aware, if you do cut at the pillars, you want to cut in sort of a Z shape the same way you would if you were to section a truck frame, so that there isn't just a single weld joint in a flat plane. But I don't think you'll have to do that if the damage is what it appears to be in the photos.
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