Help me bite the bullet

[Valmont]

I've got a car earmarked tax return waiting to get spent. However, I'm dry firing every time i visit DIYautotune to buy the stuff.

Even though I've been reading about this stuff for months, I'm just not sure I'm buying what I need.

I'm putting up a list of what i got, and what I'm about to buy. Please pick it apart so I can order stuff today, because if I don't spend this money, it will disappear to buy windows treatments and to eat out every day for a month.

 

 

I have an f54 block with a p79 head sitting on my garage floor, and an n42 block/n42 head sitting in the car.

I plan on having my manifold shaved/modified (w48 and an n47)

 

I've already ordered 1986-93 7MGTE TOYOTA SUPRA TURBO FUEL INJECTORS REMAND. (449 cc)

 

I have a donor p4 laptop, with a busted screen (sony vaio pcg-921l), no serial, usb only)

i ordered a 7 inch touchscreen Lilliput 7" EBY701-NP/C/T VGA Touch screen +free ship, and a slot load USB Slim External Slot Load DVD / CD-RW COMBO

I plan to build a carputer while I'm at it.

 

I've also ordered NISSAN 280ZX 81 82 83 L28E FULL GASKET SET NFSL28L, and I believe the pistons are stock diameter flat topped.

 

My shopping cart over at DIYautotune looks like this:

 

MegaSquirt-II EMS System - SMD PCB3.57 - Assembled Unit $405.00

MegaSquirt Relay Board - Assembled Unit $88.00

12' MegaSquirt Wiring Harness (MS1 / MS2 Ready) $65.00

Innovate LC-1 Digital Wideband Controller with Sensor $199.00

MegaSquirt Stimulator v2.2 - Assembled Unit

 

I also am looking at pallnet rails over at freewebs.com/pallnet.

 

Here's my list of questions...

1. is diy the right place to buy?

2. my plan is for spark as well. any recommendations on what to purchase? (I'm thinking coil on plug, but want suggestions on an easy set up)

3. I'm trying to purchase high dollar stuff (anything over $50 that i couldn't pick up any old time) - what am I missing?

4. Anybody recommend microsquirt? why or why not?

5. any suggestion on a pallnet rail? i think i need this: -6 14MM L28 FUEL RAIL

6. I am on the fence about whether or not to turbo, so i'd like to hear opinions on that based on close to 300 whp, and based on my desire for reliability. (I know it's expensive, but I'm trying to do everything right the first time) Any opinons on using MS with turbo, or with turbo types/sizes on the L6 appreaciated. I think I want to drive daily on 12-15 pounds, but have the ability to dial it higher.

7. Should i buy this stuff? what did i forget?

 

I have all replies being forwarded to my phone, so expect a quick response from me. Like I said, I'm trying to purchase today.

 

Thanks in advance

Val

 

(more infor on my engine here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=141240)

[Brad-ManQ45]

Not in order:

 

DIY is GREAT! Good support and well built product - can't go wrong.

 

You didn't specify what car you were putting this in - if it is already an FI car, then you probably don't need the relay stuff.

 

The Pallnet fuel rail you will need with the Supra injectors is the 11mm, not the 14mm (14mm is for domestic injectors which are usually high impedance).

 

The Supra injectors are low impedance, and I would recommend getting the P&H boards from racingmini_mtl on the MSExtra forum - I already have four of them (two projects).

 

If you want 300 HP, then you will HAVE to go turbo, and the T04E 50 trim with a T3 turbine section will be fine for you.

[slown280z]

As stated above, if your car is already fuel injected, then I don't recommend the relay board either.

In fact, MS only uses about 3 relays, I wouldn't recommend it at all to be honest (except maybe a sandrail?)...

 

Also, DIY sells pre-tested equipment, unless you're planning on going where no one on this board has gone before, I'd nix the Stimulator too (especially if you can read electrical diagrams and have good wiring skills).

[Valmont]

....(especially if you can read electrical diagrams and have good wiring skills).

Well, technically i work with electronics for a living, but on a scale of 1-5 my soldering skill level is at a two. However, i will go without the stimulator then. As for the car, i'll be putting this on a 77 FI Z, with (I think) an 81 ZX engine.

 

You didn't specify what car you were putting this in - if it is already an FI car, then you probably don't need the relay stuff.

I was going for the relays, because i am kind of assuming ripping out all current wiring, and replacing everything. Is this a bad idea? I mean, i was going to make new wiring for the headlights, and the carputer is being designed with controlling everything in mind.

 

The Supra injectors are low impedance, and I would recommend getting the P&H boards from racingmini_mtl on the MSExtra forum - I already have four of them (two projects).

 

Can you give me the cliff notes on these? or a link to the thread (I'll go looking anyway, but thank if you do)

 

From what I can tell though, at the least I'm buying the right unit from the right people, so at least i can safely purchase that, and leave wiring decisions, etc. for later. The install is months down the road, and I'm trying to get high dollar stuff (>$50-100) out of the way while i have the change to do it.

 

Thanks guys

Val

[letitsnow]

You can remove the stock fuel injection harness complete in about an hour without changing any of the other wiring in the car. Having the carputer do things like lights and heat will end up being a big mess, things like that arn't exactly plug and play, you would probably have to design and build your own hardware interface AND write a program to control it.

 

The relay board could make things a little easier if you're bad a wiring, but for nearly $90 I'd(and am actually about to) buy a smallish fuse block and a few relays. If you do decide to go with the relay board DO NOT buy the harness you have listed, it's meant for installs without the relay board, buy the one with a connector on each end.

 

The MS PWM for low impedance injectors has been know to create a lot of electrical noise which can make the car run poorly, that is why he is suggesting the add on board. You could also order some 25W 7.5-10ohm resistors from digikey.com or mouser.com for $2.50-$3.50 each.

 

I think the stim is a good thing to have just in case you make a dumb move and the car stops working(it happens to all of us), you can eliminate the MS as a culprit real quick. The kit is easy to solder together too.

[slown280z]

What's nice about 280z's is that the EFI harness is completely seperate of the main harness.

 

Another sweet part about it is that removing it still leaves the power sources and connectors for an EFI relay, and the fuel pump (which you will need a relay for, as stock they turn on with +12v applied, and MS handles the FP relay by grounding it).

 

MSing these cars is total cake.

[WizardBlack]

Definitely look at the EDIS-6. I have a '77 with Megasquirt and EDIS. I redid the entire engine bay harness, but left the harness for turn signals and whatnot alone. Most cars keep it separated to some degree. About the worst you will have to do is remove some jacketing and re-loom the wires. Good idea to check the condition of wires, anyways.

 

If you use the relay box (I do), then you need this one:

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/megasquirti-relay-cable-p-47.html

It's a plug and play between the relay box and the ECU. The relay box just has screw down terminals to go out to the engine.

 

I used low impedance (EVO VIII 560 cc) injectors with the MS PWM settings and don't seem to have any trouble, but a lot of variables come into play outside the typical stuff that can hurt you. While you are stripping out the engine wires, make sure you put in proper fuses instead of fusible links and get some solid grounds and battery connections.

[Valmont]

i think I'm planning on rewiring the whol car entirely? Has anybody else out there done this, with daily driving in mind?

Also, thanks to everyone for the advice so far. I'm writing down at least one thing from every post on a 'remember to do this' list in my garage.

Any MS'rs from the Jacksonville area?

Val

[WizardBlack]

i think I'm planning on rewiring the whol car entirely? Has anybody else out there done this, with daily driving in mind?

Also, thanks to everyone for the advice so far. I'm writing down at least one thing from every post on a 'remember to do this' list in my garage.

Any MS'rs from the Jacksonville area?

Val

 

Yes, I have essentially done it. I have gone through the entire harness, pulled it apart, identified everything, removed what I didn't need and replaced that which was left that was questionable. The S30 isn't a very complicated system. My chassis ('77) had a harness running to the rear for taillights, fuel pump, fuel level, etc. and one to the front for lights, signals, fan, etc.

I definitely recommend changing over to fuses versus the fusible links and beefing up your grounding system as a good (read: reliable) platform for engine management.

I don't daily drive my car, but I have done likewise in the past. It won't be that bad for the chassis and it will certainly run fine once you have it set. Make sure you get a manual (Chilton, Haynes) on the car, but if you are familiar with wiring much, it will make sense pretty quick.

[Valmont]

I am thinking I might buy a fusion control centre, and I am also looking into the arduino (sp?) board, to look at automating as much as possible, and replacingeverything but the metal (and a little bit of that too).

As far as I can tell, the only things that must have phsical user input is the turn signals, and the intense brake light.

However, my intention is to have everything else be computer controlled, HVAC, windows, lighting and all.

Oh, and I've bought every book on the Z I could find through regular bookstores, and i think it should be all i need, but I'm also scouring used bookstoes, and ebay for other stuff.

Thanks

Val