proxlamus© Posted March 26, 2009 Share Posted March 26, 2009 Im about to weld on new frame rails and some minor rust repair on some body panels. I would like to do the engine bay, underbelly and wheel wells with Por-15 and a top coat. Think I can get away with a quart or two? or should I bite the bullet and buy a gallon? thanks guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8INtheZ Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Might as well get a whole gallon. There is all kinds of stuff you will find to use it on Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Do a search on Zero Rust before you buy the POR-15... The one thing about POR I don't like, other than the more than occasional problem of topcoating, is that it is so hard it cracks, which will let moisture in. Zero rust is less expensive, soesn't crack and is easy to reapply and topcoat. There have been a number of converts from POR to ZR that I have corresponded with that made enough good arguments for me to decide on the ZR route - and money was not a concern at all.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zgeezer Posted March 28, 2009 Share Posted March 28, 2009 Do a search on Zero Rust before you buy the POR-15... The one thing about POR I don't like, other than the more than occasional problem of topcoating, is that it is so hard it cracks, which will let moisture in. Zero rust is less expensive, soesn't crack and is easy to reapply and topcoat. There have been a number of converts from POR to ZR that I have corresponded with that made enough good arguments for me to decide on the ZR route - and money was not a concern at all.... Ten years ago, I sandblasted my s30 well past bare metal. Two quarts of POR (Silver) applied with a 2 and 1 inch brushes covered my entire tub. Both sides. It covers well. POR and fiberglas screen repaired all my small rust holes.... none larger than quarter. It sat in the open for one year before I applied the tie coat. In the sun, it is photoactive and turned an ugly yellow/green dry heaves sort of color. After five years [yep, I know ALL about the "while we're here, let's do this or that" syndrome. Three years ago, I painted the entire tub with a quality two stage paint. Some of that paint in different locations has delaminated down to the POR Tie Coat. After much review and discussions with real paint professionals, the delamination from the POR tie coat of the finish paint and primer [which didn't show up for the first year] is the result of very sloppy preparation and surface cleaning on my part. This week, I refit my engine and massaged the tunnel for transmission and shift rod clearance with a 5# single jack. I got "real ignorunt" in reshaping the tunnel with that BFH. The paint, undercoat & primer all separated. The basic POR is still there with no indication of cracking or chipping. There is no rust anywhere on the tub. POR is not inexpensive and it is not the easiest coating to work with. It does brush on easily and covers quite well. I'm sure there are other products that will do the job.... at least in the short haul. In my experience, if I were to do this over again, I would explore newer tech, but in the end I think I would do it with POR. g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kiwi303 Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 I know offroad 4x4 club members who coat with POR15... many's the rock that has chipped or broken without creaking the POR, and on cracked diff cases the only craks in the POR are along the edge of the broken metal where the metal itself serparated... it's damn tough stuff! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted March 29, 2009 Share Posted March 29, 2009 POR works amazingly on solid metal that has a coating of rust. If it's not rusty, POR has a tough time sticking. I can't comment on the other stuff but I agree, get a gallon and then if you have any left, put it in a mason jar and keep it in the fridge. It will last a long time. Put some saran wrap between the lid and jar or you may never get the lid off again. ...oh and wear GLOVES. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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