The love of JDM Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 I had no problems getting the rear hatch off my 280zx 81' but Im having great trouble getting the hatch lid to come out from my 240z 72'. I removed the gas strut and with a friend held it while I removed the 4 12mm bolts from the hinge to body. Its un bolted but cant seem to figure out how to get it free. We tried moving the hatch up and down from side to side and even pulling the hinges while pulling back on the hatch lid its self. Any tips or pointers would greatly help out as Im needing to remove everything from the body for prep and paint. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vegasnative Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 I just did this this weekend . i found that you had to remove the hatch from the hinges to get anought of an angel to remove the hinges from their pocket Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 Don't remove the hinges - unless you have too for some reason. They are in a rubber boot that can not be replaced, plus it makes putting the hatch lid back in the proper place a real pain. Just remove the hatch from the hinge... FWIW, Carl B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The love of JDM Posted April 19, 2009 Author Share Posted April 19, 2009 I tried that but I suppose Ill need a larger phillips head driver and it was stuck pretty good. PB blaster coming soon! Thanx fellows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 If you do much work with older cars - with older nuts/bolts/screws... I would highly recommend that you take a few minutes, and spend a little money on Aero Kroil. It is without question the most amazing penetrating oil I've ever found. When it comes to frozen/rusted fasteners - it will free items that PB etc can't begin to touch. You have to order it on-line, can't buy it anywhere else that I've found. It's really an industrial product... Come in a aerosol spray, or in liquid form. I use the aerosol most of the time ie Aero Kroil. See: http://KanoLabs.com Not cheap, but worth every penny. I always order two or three cans at a time to save shipping per can - but that will last the average guy a year or two if your working most weekends on old cars. FWIW, Carl B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theghosttanker Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 If you are gonna work on old cars, besides a good penetrating oil, you need an impact screwdriver set. They'll get your stuck screws OUT. You don't need an expensive one, just a harbor freight set will do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The love of JDM Posted April 19, 2009 Author Share Posted April 19, 2009 If you do much work with older cars - with older nuts/bolts/screws... I would highly recommend that you take a few minutes, and spend a little money on Aero Kroil. It is without question the most amazing penetrating oil I've ever found. When it comes to frozen/rusted fasteners - it will free items that PB etc can't begin to touch. You have to order it on-line, can't buy it anywhere else that I've found. It's really an industrial product... Come in a aerosol spray, or in liquid form. I use the aerosol most of the time ie Aero Kroil. See: http://KanoLabs.com Not cheap, but worth every penny. I always order two or three cans at a time to save shipping per can - but that will last the average guy a year or two if your working most weekends on old cars. FWIW, Carl B. I actually have a small can of that! I used it on the cowl screws and it worked just fine, must have slipped my mind hah Thanx Sir. If you are gonna work on old cars, besides a good penetrating oil, you need an impact screwdriver set. They'll get your stuck screws OUT. You don't need an expensive one, just a harbor freight set will do. I'll def. look into that. I have a credit account with Snap-on, might be overkill but my driver comes by every day and all previous tools come from there. Thank you for that advice tho Sir! Will check out Harbor Freight as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carl Beck Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 I'll def. look into that. I have a credit account with Snap-on, might be overkill but my driver comes by every day and all previous tools come from there. Thank you for that advice tho Sir! Will check out Harbor Freight as well. Oh yea gad.... if you have Snap-On tools by all means stick with them. A Harbor Freight impact driver would just be so out of place I do have to admit - I have a 65th Anniversary Snap-On box {top, bottom and side}, with a more or less complete basic set of hand tools. It's a long story, but I do love the Snap-On tools. Many years ago - because of an insurance replacement when a local mechanic had his complete set stolen out of the Dealership he was working at - followed by his decision to get into another field altogether - I was able to pick up a brand new box and tools invoiced at over $18K... for $4K CASH the day he was moving out of State.... I'd have to get the exact brand/part number - but I also have to say that the drill bits from Harbor Freight - that are Cobalt Treated Titanium bits- - - are simply the BEST bits I've found in years!! The number of times used and the total steel they have drilled though - is about four times what I got from my Snap-On bit set! It's been a long time since I bought them - but as I recall the Snap-On set was over $250.00... The Harbor Freight set I bought last year was more complete and cost about $28.00!! They are so good the last time I was in Harbor Freight I bought another set just to have as a spare!! hummm... maybe that Harbor Freight impact driver wouldn't look so out of place.... FWIW, Carl B. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The love of JDM Posted April 20, 2009 Author Share Posted April 20, 2009 I used to buy all the normal brand tools but they kept breaking on subframes/complete breakdown of a chassis being used daily to work on numerous cars, got fed up one day and said from now on Snap-on but also because I was able to get a solid credit line with the main account and the truck account. I spent a few days marking off what I needed. To be honest, theres tools I still havent even used yet. But either way, there are some tools that I just cant wait for IE one late night I needed a pully puller to pull off a rb25 crank and a few universal tools so I went over to the local parts store and they worked but have doubts as to how long under daily use. Anyhow, kinda went off topic with the tools but thats sweet those bits still hold there weight in work, I have 1 set of same type that Ive had for 10 years, but slowly 1x1 they break at the tips (no biggie replacing bits tho) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theghosttanker Posted April 21, 2009 Share Posted April 21, 2009 Well I used to work as a mechanic and had some Snap-On tools; the garage I worked at was just a block away from a Snap-On distributor warehouse so I could just go over and get a tool i needed. I had few Snap-On tools and then my whole tool set got stolen just as I was starting college. My insurance covered the theft but there was a big deductible, so I ended up buying a whole new complete Craftsman set, which i still have 20 years later. For a serious home mechanic, i think they are the best value out there. I have had to replace a few broken tools, and their screwdrivers suck, but I have always gotten great service from Sears and hassle-free replacement on a 20-y-o tool is sure a good deal. And in the Craftsman catalogue they list "high polish" wrenches which are more expensive than the base wrenches but which are still a lot cheaper than Snap-on and every bit as good.But I only use my impact driver a few times a year, and it's from Harbor freight. Snap-On tools can sure be pretty but the prices on them are just outrageous and the quality difference doesn't justify it in my mind. I pick my tool quality according to how often I will need the tool. I used my impact driver about five times doing a complete down-to-the-shell stripping of my 240, and it worked every time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The love of JDM Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 Prices for Snap-On are expensive thats for sure. It add's up REAL FAST but to me it just seemed worth it. I notice a huge difference in the gearing's and feel. I havent had 1 Snap-On tool break yet but if it does I know I'll see my truck driver every day around 5pm and just get another and dont have to drive anywhere to get them replaced. I use my 18v cordless Snap-On pretty much every day which prob. takes a tremendous load off the manual tools, pretty werid to use it tho, been used to hand tools for the last 16 years and when I pick up the Impact I suppose it feels like a 8 track to a mp3 player to an old school mechanic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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