softopz Posted April 19, 2009 Share Posted April 19, 2009 well I do have a signal but its really weak and stops showing after 3 -5 cranks. I got ms2 3.0 board I was using the oboard coil driver and now I switched to EDIS. So when I had done the dizzy with coil driver The megamanual said to remove c12 and c30, so I did. Now Iam EDIS still using HALL/optical input but I removed one jumper from IGBTOUT to IGBT I believe anywho Should I put back c12 and c30? Because right now Iam getting a really weak tach signal (rpm)which = no fuel with no rpm.I feel like IM going backwards cause atleast with the old ignition system I had a tach signal but I never got it to successfully idle on its own. p.s. does anyone know the tests to do on EDIS parts? (just in case) module, sensor and coil pack ? I did buy from ebay and the coil pack plug had only 3 wires. Which I find really wierd. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 20, 2009 Share Posted April 20, 2009 Did you read the stickies? I am not sure what you are saying at times. Could you stick some punctuation in there? Stick the plugs on the wires and lay them on the valve cover to see if you have spark. Where are you determining that you have no tach signal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted April 21, 2009 Author Share Posted April 21, 2009 Ya I read the stickies. The stickies dont have information on troubleshooting. I put the wires on the plugs and no spark. Also Im seeing in megatune RPM is the tach signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rolling Parts Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 "p.s. does anyone know the tests to do on EDIS parts? (just in case) module, sensor and coil pack ?" Sure. 1)Pull the plugs and lay them on the valve cover (reconnect the plug wires to them) 2)Confirm that you have +12V at the coil pack and the module. 3)Confirm that the module is grounded 4)Disconnect the VR and wire in a VR simulator ( http://www.heggs.co.uk/vrssim/wav/index.htm ) 5) Play the simulated 36-1 signal and it SHOULD spark. EDIT: The coil pack can be swapped with a normal coil if there is no spark. You can test the leads one at a time to see if the whole coil pack is bad or if just one pair is not producing. If you start seeing sparks when you use a normal coil, then the coil pack was bad. If you don't see any sparks after using a normal coil, then the module is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 22, 2009 Share Posted April 22, 2009 You say you're getting RPM in megatune? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 "p.s. does anyone know the tests to do on EDIS parts? (just in case) module, sensor and coil pack ?" Sure. 1)Pull the plugs and lay them on the valve cover (reconnect the plug wires to them) 2)Confirm that you have +12V at the coil pack and the module. 3)Confirm that the module is grounded 4)Disconnect the VR and wire in a VR simulator ( http://www.heggs.co.uk/vrssim/wav/index.htm ) 5) Play the simulated 36-1 signal and it SHOULD spark. EDIT: The coil pack can be swapped with a normal coil if there is no spark. You can test the leads one at a time to see if the whole coil pack is bad or if just one pair is not producing. If you start seeing sparks when you use a normal coil, then the coil pack was bad. If you don't see any sparks after using a normal coil, then the module is bad. Thanks allot wizard Ill try that later today. Yes Im getting a RPM signal in megatune goes to 161 and faints out. Its the first time I read about this VR stimulator neat stuff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 UPDATE: -confirmed +12 v at coil and module -module is grounded -checked wiring of pin 24 and 36 from ms to module there is continuity with multimeter set on resistance. -checked PIP and SAW to module also continuity Both sets of wires above are shielded through pin 7 now where does the other ends of shielding go ? I have them just ending on there own I wired the stimulator no spark.... I did set my sound settings to 3d sterio and playing on both sides. So I should see spark right or atleast 1150RPM in megatune? So I guess I could have bad module or MS issue correct? either settings or jumpers? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rolling Parts Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 No spark on ANY plug with the simulator playing means that the ignition module is bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 hmm could be My brother has a v6 94 mustang know where they stash the ignition module? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 Update its under the air cleaner. So I took my brothers module which is a working one I know this cause I just started the mustang. Still nothing SO its not the module looks like im crapshooting. I know my wiring is good , module is good. Its gotta be MS right? like I said in my original post Im going backwards I feel. Before EDIS with the dizzy I never got it to run but I had spark and fuel. SOMEONE PLEASE HELP ME it sucks seeing others post for first time and get the car running a week later, dont get me wrong Im happy for them but I been trying to get this car to run for sooooo long ! When I had the original ecu from 280zxt I got it to run and drive but it was so problematic I rebuilt the motor ! and Now Its been a year with MS with no luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rolling Parts Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 If there is no spark, it's NOT the MS. As far as wiring, don't rely on wire colors! My VR sensor has a blue and a grey wire and the VR input on the module harness also had a blue and a grey wire. You'd think that Ford would have the + and - to the sensor color coded? NOPE! I wasted days untill I figured out that blue connected to grey and grey to blue to get the polarity right between the VR sensor and the module. DOH! "the coil pack plug had only 3 wires" I just re-read your first post. the coil pack SHOULD have 4 wires (one +12 and then three control wires, 1 per coil pair). Bad choice of words or is it really missing one wire? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 A lot of times I have been up against a wall on my projects and some times I just back up a step to get them running and come back to the problem at a later date. Maybe back up and get the car running with the zxt dizzy for spark? Is there anyone local to you that is running EDIS? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 No one here wants to even touch ms especially tuner shops and just regular tuners. I was willing to pay just to finish up the car. Maybe I rushed the EDIS but I tried everything with that setup and still nothing. I am starting to believe I bought a bad MS2 unit from ebay. As far as wiring, don't rely on wire colors! My VR sensor has a blue and a grey wire and the VR input on the module harness also had a blue and a grey wire. You'd think that Ford would have the + and - to the sensor color coded? NOPE! I wasted days untill I figured out that blue connected to grey and grey to blue to get the polarity right between the VR sensor and the module. DOH! "the coil pack plug had only 3 wires" I just re-read your first post. the coil pack SHOULD have 4 wires (one +12 and then three control wires, 1 per coil pair). Bad choice of words or is it really missing one wire? Yah the coil wire plug HAD 3 wires my post topic before this dealt with this issue. I went and got the right plug for it, this was me trying to say the guy sold me some wierd ass plug. FORD is retarted because that plug did come from a EDIS 6 cause it has 4 pin holes but only 3 wires (and no body removed the 4th pin because the rubber seal had no hole in IT!>?!>!! that was wierd. And yes I switched around the VR wires nothing still. Moving on I will try to do the same test but with a normal coil and it should spark right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Noddle Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 can you post a picture of your coil, I know of 2 types of coils, that have different wiring. Nigel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 The shielding should be grounded at ONE END ONLY. I think the stickies have it somewhere, or the diyautotune forums does. I can peek in mine to confirm if you would like. I have a fully running EDIS-6 with MS2. Look at my project photos to compare your coil, etc. I have a square 4-wire plug on my coil. It's for a non-ford coilpack, however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted April 24, 2009 Author Share Posted April 24, 2009 UPDATE: I got a good tach signal and a SPARK @!! so the module is good and the coil is good ! What was it ? bad plugs on the module end really corroded inside I put some electric digrease and filed them with a tiny pin. I put the injector plugs on I hear the injectors going off but fuel only in cyl 1 and 2 I may have my injector drivers wrong how did you guys wire them ? Iam only using 2 pins off db37 each going to 3 injectors I believe. And what settings did you leave for injector staging? Wizardblack - my coil is the ford edis coil pack and my shielding is on one end only as well. Rolling Parts - I remember you doing a similair setup as mine. Bone stock l28et stock injectors and a narrow band. Did you get your car running or tuned? It would help looking at another msq. Now I have so much stuff to do I feel this is only the begining. I still have many issues to deal with. In the previous setup after the motor rebuild I really tried too many times to start it. So my oil is really fouled with gas and its really THIN viscosity. I dont think Iam getting a good seal anymore at the rings especially since so much gas was sprayed before. I hope I didnt reuin anything :S Here is a short list of things that needto be addressed: - drain oil, put oil in and flush and repeat. Then change filter. I think Iam going to go with some thick stuff - get new spark plugs especially since they are really fouled and what not doesnt help (any recommendations? stock gap is good? I cant imagine how inside the cylinders look I wish I can tear it up and check BUT I JUST REBUILT - get a new batterey this one is not taking anymore charge - check injector wiring and settings - get my timing locked down set the wheel 6 teeth after missing tooth right? (the engine on 1 TDC) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Rolling Parts Posted April 24, 2009 Share Posted April 24, 2009 Yay! Good work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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