MazterDizazter Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 Hey all, I'm in the middle of trying to swap an L28ET in my 240Z. I've gotten way too deep and spent way too much money on this dinosaur motor and I'm considering just getting an RB26DETT and selling my L-series parts. I need to know what added expenses come with the swap. So let's start with the engine: $3500 shipped for R32 RB26 from J-Hot Imports in NJ. I already have an AZC aluminum radiator and Treadstone FMIC, and a Z32 transmission, custom driveshaft, and shifter. I have an aeromotive FPR and I plan on buying a fuel cell and aeromotive fuel pump and filter with -10 braided hoses with A/N fittings. That leaves, by my calculations, the wiring, custom mounting solution, clutch, and bellhousing adapter (do I need a different oil pan?). I'd probably also want to replace the HG and head studs. Anyhow, waiting for people who have done the swap to chime in. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRZ man Posted April 23, 2009 Share Posted April 23, 2009 The first thing I would do is think about how much power do you want and then go from there, if you want 3-400hp, I would stay with the l28et, there are other swaps too, like vh45 or vq35. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazterDizazter Posted April 23, 2009 Author Share Posted April 23, 2009 Let's say eventual goal is 600whp, achievable either with the L28ET or the RB26DETT. Kinda hell-bent on the straight-six layout. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z24O Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 first thing i would do with an import RB26 would be to strip it down and check the internals,if alls good give it a hone,linish the crank,new set of rings and bearings,new oil pump,pressure test the head,check valve seats,throw in a set of valve stem seals,check the valve springs carefully for tension,install a new set of retainers,new set of gaskets and you are good to go the rb26 is a very expensive handgrenade and i have lost count of import ones that have met with premature demise after just being installed as is ....particularly spun bearings or dropped valves i'd budget on a minimum of $10,000 ,including ECU & tune,loom,fuel system,wastegate,600hp turbo/s,pipework,exaust,engine freshen up,clutch,tailshaft,injectors,custom sump/pickup however the above may not guarantee a reliable 600hp,for this you may need forged pistons and rods,large snout crank/mod,N1 oil pump,HD valve springs,aftermarket cams hope you've got deep pockets Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WizardBlack Posted April 25, 2009 Share Posted April 25, 2009 First thing >I< would do is read all the stickies! If the L is too expensive and you are already partway through the swap, abandoning ship and jumping to an RB is going to be way more money. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazterDizazter Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share Posted May 4, 2009 I'll have to check my numbers but it doesn't sound like more than twice what I'll have to spend to get the L28ET rebuilt and tuned to ~300whp. Plus I can sell the block, AZC oil pan, Pallnet fuel rail, non-egr intake manifold, 240SX TB/adapter, and any other bits I have to make up the cost. I'll repost again with more solid numbers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeoster Posted May 4, 2009 Share Posted May 4, 2009 Consider an RB25, its considerally cheaper. Big HP is still possible and Im beginning to notice more and more aftermarket support for it because of its recent popularity. Im nearing the completion of my RB25 280z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Here are my expenses so far: Engine: $2000 RB26 tranny: $300 300zx tranny: $300 Custom oilpan: $750 Fuel cell, inline pump, braided fuel lines and fittings: $1200 Intercooler: $100 W/P, Clutch slave, misc junk: $300 So far $4950, and maybe another $1000 or so to go. I was considering a l28et before this, but I could easily rack up the same amount into a l28et The rb26 will do 350hp out of the box Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fentin_fury Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 I don't tell ANYONE what it cost - some how my wife may find out! q Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwarlick Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 Don't forget recirculating BOV's if you are going with factory ECU. I just recently put my car into a swap shop and they are doing all the things I don't have time or the skills to do. Here is a rough outline. AEM Standalone, Wideband, Boost controller, Sensors, and AEM Gauge - I think about $1,800 parts Gauges - $800 Fuel Lines Filter, Regulator and After Market Fuel Rail Rewiring I/C Piping Intake Piping Downpipe Fabrication Oil pan and pickup modification Replaced oil pump water pump and timing belt With N1s Now mind you I drove the car into them with the RB26 mounted and running. Before I took it to them I had done my own half assed version of I/C and Intake piping and halfway patched the exhust and the car was running. I remembered thinking at the time that the guys in hybridz were wrong and that this is a cheap swap. Oh boy was I wrong. All together the stuff I listed above is costing me over $11k. I know that sounds like a lot but I have been monitoring their progress closely and at their shop rate of $75/hr I know this is a more than fair price. The stuff I listed is a monumental amount of work and in my opinion if you are not a good fabricator and a good at general mechanical and electrical do not attempt this swap on your own. If you have the money or the skills (and free time) then go for it. Here is a link to the shop's page on my swap. http://www.toyspeedracing.com/id178.html BTW if anyone on this board mentions any of this to my wife I will stab you in the heart with an ice pick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BirdmanZ Posted May 5, 2009 Share Posted May 5, 2009 I spent close to $10K on mine and that was with me doing everything. I did the wiring, made a complete exhaust, made an intercooler and charge pipes, and made the transmission mount. That also included the cost of having the crank collar fixed (R32 engine) and the Power FC that I bought. Brandon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jakeoster Posted May 6, 2009 Share Posted May 6, 2009 Well if your gonna go the ol' trusted Mckinney route: Mount kit: $525 Downpipe: $500 Exhaust piping & muffler: $550 Wiring Harness: $400 provided the importer didn't hack it up Dont forget shipping on everything including the RB, it can get up there. You will run into a lot of little stuff that will nickle and dime ya. It is most likely gonna surpass your six grand prediction, even if everything goes perfectly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted May 7, 2009 Share Posted May 7, 2009 Mckinney chargers $400 for wiring? What do they do exactly? For that kind of price Id be expecting a brand new engine wiring harness. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MazterDizazter Posted November 6, 2009 Author Share Posted November 6, 2009 $400 is the going rate for Toyota wiring harness conversions, too. I chose not to pay it and had an "experienced friend" do it for me; turned out looking like a rat's nest and half my warning lights were on for no apparent reason. Some things are just worth the cost. Yeah, $10-11k sounds about right, and very much worth it considering the power and speed you get from that RB. I think I'm going to put this idea on the backburner for a while as I just found out that 3SGTE swaps for my MR2 have become much more affordable recently; it used to be $10k for a gen2 swap (200hp/200lb/ft), now it's around 6-7k for a gen3 swap (241hp/224lb/ft), and that includes the modifications to bring it to around 300whp. Considering my MR2 needs an engine and my Z doesn't necessarily need one right now (just refreshed the ol' L26 and rebuilt the Webers), I think I'll wait a while, sell off the L28ET stuff, and put it in the piggy bank for later, when hopefully, hopefully RB swaps will become more affordable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wax Posted November 6, 2009 Share Posted November 6, 2009 If you use a rb25 or an rb30 block your sump hassles will be alot less Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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