Blong'sZ Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 Not too sure if anyone can help me. I am getting very close to finishing this project. I haven't been here for a while since work and all but ran into this issue. Well, its an lt1 going into a 240z with a 6 speed manual trans (t56). Anyways, I got a new clutch pressure plate, flywheel just light resurfaced, and disc. I went to put these new part on the motor and the flywheel was easy since there is a hole for a dowel alignment mark. Disc went on facing right direction as I doubled tripled checked that. Next is the pressure plate, I looked for alignment marks all over the place, none. All the holes line up no matter how its turned. Well, bolted it on, torque to 20lbs + 30* turn, all is well pressure plate on solid as finger come upward. Mated trans to engine and attached slave to release fork, aligned fork within groove of release bearing. Started the engine and tried to shift but it won't shift. If I get the rear wheels off of the ground and shift it goes into gear without even pushing on the clutch. I mean I can just pop them in all the gears except reverse. Additionally, when in 1st and I rev the engine the rear wheel doesn't seem to spin as fast as it should, kinda like the clutch isn't full engaging. Anyways, I took it apart again to see if there is something I did wrong. Put it all back together and now my starter will not turn. I replaced the started samething. I turned crank with ranch and engine turns but seems a little hard to turn. Now I am clueless as to what could be my problem. I am gonna pull the transmission again to see if there is any binding causing too much stress for the starter motor. So since you got the background here is the question. Whats going on trans shift into all gears good, no grinding with wheels off the ground and not using clutch at all, but doesn't shift into gears at all with wheels on the ground both using clutch pedal and not? A. Transmission no good B. Clutch not engaging or disengaging C. Write what you think Should the pressure plate have alignment marks? If so where? Your help is appreciated, I can post pics but don't know how. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 Not too sure if anyone can help me. I am getting very close to finishing this project. I haven't been here for a while since work and all but ran into this issue. Well, its an lt1 going into a 240z with a 6 speed manual trans (t56). Anyways, I got a new clutch pressure plate, flywheel just light resurfaced, and disc. I went to put these new part on the motor and the flywheel was easy since there is a hole for a dowel alignment mark. Disc went on facing right direction as I doubled tripled checked that. Next is the pressure plate, I looked for alignment marks all over the place, none. All the holes line up no matter how its turned. Well, bolted it on, torque to 20lbs + 30* turn, all is well pressure plate on solid as finger come upward. Mated trans to engine and attached slave to release fork, aligned fork within groove of release bearing. Started the engine and tried to shift but it won't shift. If I get the rear wheels off of the ground and shift it goes into gear without even pushing on the clutch. I mean I can just pop them in all the gears except reverse. Additionally, when in 1st and I rev the engine the rear wheel doesn't seem to spin as fast as it should, kinda like the clutch isn't full engaging. Anyways, I took it apart again to see if there is something I did wrong. Put it all back together and now my starter will not turn. I replaced the started samething. I turned crank with ranch and engine turns but seems a little hard to turn. Now I am clueless as to what could be my problem. I am gonna pull the transmission again to see if there is any binding causing too much stress for the starter motor. So since you got the background here is the question. Whats going on trans shift into all gears good, no grinding with wheels off the ground and not using clutch at all, but doesn't shift into gears at all with wheels on the ground both using clutch pedal and not? A. Transmission no good B. Clutch not engaging or disengaging C. Write what you think Should the pressure plate have alignment marks? If so where? Your help is appreciated, I can post pics but don't know how. Don't believe the missing balance marks are the issue. Is the engine a 2 piece rear seal or 1 piece rear seal. I believe it should be a 1 piece rear mail seal. What are the specifics on the flywheel, clutch disc and pressure plate. There should be a pilot bearing pressed into the crankshaft. The T56 was used for the 93-97 LT1 engines. The flywheel, clutch disk and pressure plate need to be for this setup. I have the same and will use a Fidanza flywheel, Centerforce clutch disk and pressure plate. For this combination there needs to be special GM part number bolts for the pressure plate. The clutch is a PULL TYPE clutch versus a PUSH type clutch. If you have something different please spell out the differences. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jay260z Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 For the reverse problem thers a lock-out solenoid that screwes into the side of the trans on the drivers side just below where the shifter bolts down. You can take it out and grind off the the ram or you can make a plug. heres a pic of the solenoid http://www.darklair.com/images/T56/T56_rear.jpeg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blong'sZ Posted May 1, 2009 Author Share Posted May 1, 2009 Well, here's some more information regarding the trans. I am trying to identify it but can't at the time. Could it be that it's out of and ls engine, here is the numbers. Hope someone can help id this here. case# = 13-86-065-902 green dog tag = 12558016 f0573 13-86-016 d19040 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbc3 Posted May 1, 2009 Share Posted May 1, 2009 http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/ChevyTransmissions/gmt56.cfm 94-97 T56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff Posted May 2, 2009 Share Posted May 2, 2009 It sounds like your clutch isn't fully disengaging to me. Reverse is the worst if this is the case. The first thing to try is to bleed or cycle the clutch slave cylinder. There are no bleed screws on the LT1/T56 clutch master and slave assembly. Make sure the clutch master is slightly over full and that the bladder is in place. The black rubber thing that sticks down into the resevoir. Get under the car and pull the slave cylinder. You need to run the slave through several full cycles by letting the rod fully extend and then compressing it slowly but fully. It took several attempts before mine finally quit acting up but it did work eventually. I'm not sure if that is what is going on with your car but I did have similar experiences just not quite as severe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blong'sZ Posted May 2, 2009 Author Share Posted May 2, 2009 Yes, I figured maybe it was my hydrolics but I bleed it several times. I am using a universal tilton 7/8 mated to a t5 slave. I has a bleeder valve both on the master and slave. I went through several bottles of fluid thinking maybe I didn't bleed it well enough. I think its got no air in there, since fluid is clear and I even went as far as getting some long clear lines running it all back to the reservoir so I could cycle it many times without have to worry about running dry. The slave I tested and it is good, snapped my plastic rod strap that came with it when i tested out of trans. Also, I even went as far as sacraficing some socket to adjust the distance from the fork by grinding the sockets less than the spacer sandwiched in between the slave and the bellhousing. I guess I was trying to achieve some adjustability with an nonadjustable system. Well, it comming back out since the second time we put it back we ran into a problem with the starter not being able to even turn the engine. I'm gonna see if it has anything to do with binding caused from the install by starting the engine without trans. If starts then I will be extra carful putting trans in this time. I hope this never ending problem stops, so ready to quit this project. How do we post pics??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blong'sZ Posted June 5, 2009 Author Share Posted June 5, 2009 Well, I just wanted to update everyone of my issue and so it will help someone else maybe if they run into this same problem. Anyways, I am using a universal tilton master 7/8 with a t5 slave (plastic). Had engagement or disengagement issues, turned out to be 2 things. First, was my pilot bearing wasn't in flush with mounting surface causing the spline to be constantly spinning therefore making it harder to shift. Second and probably the problem is, I did not have enough travel on the clutch to fully disengage it. I ended up cutting the stopper under the clutch pedal which gave it another 1.5" or so of travel and that fixed the problem. I am wondering if anyone ran into this where they had to cut that stopper out and what they did to bring the disengagement point up higher? The thread on my rod is bearly on the littel clip the attaches to the underside of ur clutch pedal. I am probably going to make my push rod into the master longer to bring it up higher but then I am running into the problem of I only could come up so high with the pedal before I hit the stoper. I am already really high up, maybe just .25" more. Anyways, thanks for reading. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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