jay260z

Maybe ill see you and the car out there next year sometime.

just attach the hose from the master cylinder down to the slave cylinder but dont install the slave cylinder to the transmission yet. Fill the master cylinder with the correct dot fluid then slowly press the rod on the slave cylinder all the way until it bottoms out and slowly let it extend all the way back out, repeat until you have no bubbles. You may let it sit a few to allow any trapped air to rise, once its bled it will self bleed from there

have you taken your car to Famoso before with the Turbo setup?

looks good in there the drivers side exhaust was a tight fit on my car too to get it around the clutch slave cylinder

i have one for sell if your intrested.

Those 210's work really well, with all that is done for making lots of HP why not run a Solid Roller over the flat tappet?

64cc

64cc

Im curious of what intake runner size you have on your heads, and the lunati part number for your cam? I've got a very similar built motor in my 260z and i will say it really get up and goes and i can't even use its full potential because of some clutch issues i have, having a th350 being built right now actually My motor is a 383 11.3:1 AFR195 237/242@.050 .605/613 lunati solid roller QFT750 and RPM air gap, but may switch to a Victor Jr.

How is the build quality of these radiators? I have to upgrade my cooling system for the new motor in my car and looking at my options.

Does your new 350 have Vortec heads on it, I cant tell from the picture? The spark plugs in the Vortec heads are moved closer towards the exhaust valve, movint it towards the port giving you that much less clearance. Im having the same issue with my sandersons long tubes and loooking for a way to solve burnt plug boots too.

Well the motor runs but the weather aroud here isnt working for my favor in getting this put into the car. Ive been able to fire it up on an engine stand, idles nicely around 850-900 rpm with about 14 in. of vacuum and hase nice crisp throttle responce.

I have been looking into books to buy and learn from but just havent bought any yet. That engine you just described is basicly the exact setup I want to build but money says otherwise and thats why I have this simple build going on. Thanks for the info

I have thought these things out before actually picking out the parts to make up any of the engines combo's that have went thrugh my mind. This engine I chose to keep it more along the lines of a nice performance steet motor over a tame race engine. Once the fun wears off or get a wild hair to want more power or try somethign unique this motor will perform well enough.

The sanderson headers work with the JTR mounts

I will agree the collectors are not the best design but the flanges that they use are very thick and dont flex helping them seal. What transmission are you going to be using in your setup?

I have a performer RPM air gap, 650 holley streep HP, 1 5/8 long tube headers dual 2 1/2 exhaust, Mallory digital ign, 3:90 differential ratio, all of the fuel system needs to support it all, and the list just goes on. I have plans on posting results of how it performs both on the steet and the track. If the power output isnt enough I may go to a larger cam or a 750 carb ive got laying around but I dont want to go to large and only have a small gain at the track but loose street mannors. Whats a Hydraulic Roller cam you may suggest in the future to get the most out of the setup I have now? Thanks for the info you have posted.

I have a set of Vortec heads that im putting onto my 355 sbc with a new Hydraulic roller camshaft and wanted to konw what kind of power it should make. The Engine 4 bolt block bored .030 Manley 5.7 I beam rods SRP flat tops with valve reliefs ARP bolts Lunati VOODOO 60111 installed on a 106 ILC as speced by lunati (219/227@.050 .515 .530) New Lifters OEM type(Vortec Block) The Vortec Heads have 2.02/1.60 Screw in studs with guide plates Machined valve guide Machined spring seats to fit required springs Mild port job (i dont have any flow numbers) Should i degree the cam other than what the cam card specs to help out any? I dont have a set hp number that I am reaching for just a healthy morotr for the ol Z to cruise around in and play with at the strip on the weekends

Look up Sandersons Headers, I have a set of the 1 5/8 on my can and they fit really well

Mine fit about the same but i didnt dimple the header for the steering shaft but im going to take it off and do it anyways, it rubs from time to time.

i doubt they will clear the steering shaft

Just in case the stock LT1 dosnt have enough power for you look up Llyod Elliott at Elliott's port works. His LT1 stuff runs very well and has excellent street manners.

The cluthc master cylinder may work but its easier to just buy a universal 7/8 wilwood or tilton for around $50-$75 and it bolts directly to the firewall, you just need to make a push rod and your done

The stock master cylinder dose not displace enough fluid to completely disengage the clutch, thats why you have to use the larger diameter master cylinder. I have a 3/4" on my car and i used the factory push rod and clevis, it even mounted onto the stock bolt locations. I was wrong about the size of line i used, i said that i used a -4AN but i am actualy using a -3AN and it works just fine. The part number for the fitting that attaces to the slave cylinder in order to use a -3AN is a russel P/N 640281.

I have the LT1 t56 in my car with a universal master cylinder on the fire wall, its either a 3/4 or 7/8 i can check tommarow for all of the P/N and details. I used a -3AN hose and a russel fitting to attach the stock slave cylinder to the master cylinder. Here is how you bleed the slave cylnder for an LT1. With the hose attached to the master cylinder and slave cylinder fill the master cylinder with fluid but leave the cap loose Get under the car and unbolt the slave cylinder if its still bolted to the bell housing but leave the hose attached By hand press the rod into the slave cylinder all the way and hold it for a few seconds, do this 10-15 time or untill no more air bubbels come up to the master cylinder. If needed after you have depressed the rod a few times let it sit for a few min for the air to work its way up the system but you should fell it get hader the more you press the rod in.