Guest Anonymous Posted June 28, 2000 Share Posted June 28, 2000 Hey, I was wondering if anyone has put Air conditioning in their V8Z? I am puting in a 1996 LT1 350 and am wanting A/C. The car is a 1973 240Z. I have all the stock A/C components from that car and all the A/C components from a 1983 280ZX. Do I need to buy a GM compressor. Can I use all the existing A/C components and hook it up to the SBC by fabricating a bracket? Any help is appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Fast Frog Posted June 28, 2000 Share Posted June 28, 2000 Yes!! My retired mechanic friend did in his 77 ZV8. He's the one that got me into putting a V8 in my 76Z. His name is Nick (970)-434-7458 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted June 28, 2000 Share Posted June 28, 2000 I replaced the old heater system, and put in a Vintage Air system in my '72 240Z. It has AC, heat, and defrost. Hey Swat, where in Atlanta are you from? I live in Lilburn, and JuJu lives in Hiram. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 28, 2000 Share Posted June 28, 2000 I put AC in my 73. I have an old 327, but the only difference that might make is the compressor and brackets (simple to make). Here's the specs on my system: Sanden 508 compressor with custom brackets Vintage Air P/N 03250-VUC Horizontal Super Flow condenser, 12"tall x 23.9"wide x .83" thick (supposedly 40% more cooling capacity that an similarly sized run-of-the-mill condensor without the micro tube dual pass setup) This fits in the recess of the radiator support that surrounds the radiato opening. Vintage Air R134a hose/drier kit ARA under dash evaporator & box from bought from Courtesy Nissan. This is the same box the Z's came with when they had dealer installed air (I had an old one to compare it to), but it came with a R134 evaporator and expansion valve and a thermostat. I have a GT Mustang cooling fan to help pull through the condensor I also sealed the radiator to the core support and the condensor to it as well. All air entering the condensor must go through the radiator core, and all air pulled through the radiator core must enter through the condensor. The most important part of this setup is the Ford 1985 Full Size LTD blower fan and motor I cobbled into the 240Z fan box. I also sealed the connection between the fan box and the evaporator box well since it is a suck through evaporator setup. This fan pulls about three times as much air as the 240Z fan, by my sloppy experiments. I don't know how well it works since I haven't driven the car yet (paint jail right now - June 2001), but I'll have it done this Summer and report on it. [ May 31, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted June 28, 2000 Share Posted June 28, 2000 I'm very interested in this since I roasted while driving the car on Saturday in 93 degree east coast heat.... Need to investigate this to the fullest, as I want heat and A/C in my car. It had A/C from the factory but I ditched the components... Bad move... How much am I looking at to install a complete system in my car??? Mike ------------------ "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted June 28, 2000 Share Posted June 28, 2000 I'd find out what Mike kZ has since that's a better more integrted system. The evaopator core/box and thermostat was $250 from Curtesy Nissan (ouch!) The compressor I got used, so I don't know. I'd figure $100 ought to get you there. The hose kit was around $50 I believe. The condensor was about $120. You'll have to come up with mounts for everything but the condensor which comes with them. I used the old mount for the evap box I had. Courtesy could probably get you one of those also. I'm too old to do without A/C. The D.C. area is so hot and sticky in the Summer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 28, 2000 Share Posted June 28, 2000 hey Mike Kz I live in the Cobb county area. How much is the vintage air system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike kZ Posted June 28, 2000 Share Posted June 28, 2000 The Vintage Air system is not cheap. I paid $945 for it. It's a universal Space Saver, built for mid size street rods and trucks. So it should cool my Z very well. It comes with evaporator, and mounting brackets, standard controls, I opted for the aluminum Proline control,wiring, louvers,ac duct hoses, drain kit, heater control valve. I also have the Sanden 508 compressor,refrigeration line kit, and the same horizontal super flow condenser as Pete. I had to modify the cowl area a bit to fit the evaporator, but it all fit perfect under the dash. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Locutus Posted June 28, 2000 Share Posted June 28, 2000 My advice is if your car came orginal with A/c go find a donar car at a junk yard, and get everything related to the A/C and reinstall it in your car. You can use 134a with those componants just fine, you just have to clean everything with varsol and blow it out real good, and renew all your o rings. This is to insure that the oil used in an R12 system is not left behind as it and 134a don't mix, once you have a clean system put in about 6 ounces of pog oil and evacuate the system, if it holds a vacuum overnight charge the system to 35psi(low side) with the car running. I am going to use the datsun equipment with a chevy compressor. I have been researching this and since all systems maintain the same pressures approx, the datsun equip should handle the compressor just fine. I will keep you posted as I work thru this. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 28, 2000 Share Posted June 28, 2000 Hey Locutus Your plan will work fine, I have mixed and matched lots of ac componants in the past on several cars,no problem , and like you said it is a good idea to switch to 134a while you are doing it. But on that suction side pressure, 35 psi will be close, but that will really depend on the outside temp . needs to be as close as you can for proper cooling. Tony ------------------ 74 260, sbc 350, 700r4, and a few little HP Mods.just gettin started good. www.speedtechcoatings.com Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Locutus Posted June 29, 2000 Share Posted June 29, 2000 I usually put in 35psi in a system, then check the inside temp with it on max air(where it is recirculating the inside air) If it is cooling the air coming out the vent between 40F and 50F you will have an AC that will freeze your buns off. if after letting it run for 15-20 mins and it doesn't cool down to 50, go up 5 psi to 40. I was taught if you go over 40 you increase the chance of over pressuring the system on the highside and having a a/c hose bust, or even failure of the metal components in the system. I have never seen a car that I couldn't get to cool under 50 degrees with 35-40psi. if you have around 40psi and its still not cooling properly, check air movement, check your fan to make sure it is working properly, make sure you condenser, and evaporator are both clean and free of dirt build up and other gunk that may block airflow. If you are getting parts form a junk yard take your condensor and evaporator to a radiator shop, and let them clean and flush them and check for leaks, it shouldn't be more then 20 bucks or so for both pieces. its not very complicated, just be careful and take your time. Don't over tighten compenants, and make sure to you use the right tool. Wrenchs instead of cresent wrench or vice grips(especially vice grips, they distort the fittings so they never seal properly after that). Use lots of liquid wrench when you remove pieces, let them soak to ease removal, they are fragile pieces as far as parts on a car go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted June 29, 2000 Share Posted June 29, 2000 Oh man - I've been curious as a cat about this myself. the JTR TPITBI book had some information on this I believe but it wasn't too helpful other than brackets. Seems like using the original A/C components would make the most sense if the car had them but what works best if it didn't? I've seen people selling the parts for upwards of $400 or more - ouch! I'd be interested in hearing more about how the StreetRod kits work out and how intrusive they are to the passenger compartment. I've got aways to go before I'm going to have to worry too much about this but the more information the better! Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Locutus Posted June 29, 2000 Share Posted June 29, 2000 If you can at least get a datsun condensor, evaportator,and the housings and controls,fan etc, use GM for everything else, and custom make the lines to go betweent the components, Fittings and the rubber hose for making the lines is inexpensive very versitle and flexable. Just make sure you double clamp every line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 29, 2000 Share Posted June 29, 2000 Hey guy's I thought my 2 cents worth would be helpful here. I live in Az. We do alot of a/c work here in Az. We've been warned (a/c seminars & classes) about overcharging. 134a is alot more sensative than R12 when it comes to overcharging. It only takes a little to much & the system loses efficiency. 4 ounces to much & it wont cool to good. With R12 it didn't realy hurt to overcharge a little. 40 lbs on the low side sounds high. I was taught that low pressures have about 1 to 1 pressure to temp. ratio. 40 psi would be a 40 degree evap. You want evap. temps just above freezing (33-35). At work we found that 134 systems prefer being undercharged compared to overcharged. Im assuming the systems you guys are using use expansion valves not orfice tubes & don't cycle. Most expansion valves are adjustable so low side pressures may not indicate system level. If these systems have sight glasses use them to aid in charging. In high temps you will probably still have bubbles in the sight glass in a fully charged system. I wouldn't charge any more if your at 35psi without checking everything else (expansion valve, vent doors, ect...). You may have to adjust the expansion valve. If you buy an aftermarket system it should tell you how much it holds. If your using the factory set up look in a service manual to find out how much it holds. Here in Az with our extreme heat 134a conversions don't work to well when it gets hot out. If you look at the pressure to heat relationships of the two refrigerants you'll understand why. At higher temps the 134's pressures get alot higher than R12's. I recomend getting the biggest, most efficient condensers you can find. If they cost more spend the $. Also get the best fans you can get. When 134a was first used from the factory the systems sucked. Most of the newer systems work great (vent temps in the 30's when its in th 100's outside). We were taught that condensors & fans are the key. Do remember I haven't lived anywhere else so your experiences with 134 may be different. Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted June 27, 2001 Share Posted June 27, 2001 I would love to put A/C in my Z since it was about 112 at my house in Glendale AZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted June 27, 2001 Share Posted June 27, 2001 Dang, I just can't seem to get this right. I'll re-post below. Sorry for the WOB. [ June 27, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RPMS Posted June 27, 2001 Share Posted June 27, 2001 quote: Originally posted by Glenn Richelsoph: Hey guy's I thought my 2 cents worth would be helpful here. ... Most expansion valves are adjustable so low side pressures may not indicate system level...You may have to adjust the expansion valve. Sounds like a good idea. One thing I'm concerned about is the system icing over on humid days. I guess a properly adjusted expansion valve will ensure that this doesn't happen, right? I've got gauges and a moderate level of know-how, but I've never adjusted the expansion valve in a Z. Can you walk me through the procedure? quoteI recomend getting the biggest, most efficient condensers you can find. We were taught that condensors & fans are the key. I guess the biggest would be out of a mid- 70's 454 Cadillac Fleetwood, but I'm not certain that would fit without mounting it on top of the roof... Is there one that's more efficient that you would recommend? Something more modern, perhaps? quoteDo remember I haven't lived anywhere else so your experiences with 134 may be different. Buddy, if I want medical advice, I ask a doctor. If I want a recipe for air conditioning that works, I'll ask someone from Arizona! [ June 27, 2001: Message edited by: RPMS ] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 I don't know how well it works since I haven't driven the car yet (paint jail right now - June 2001)' date=' but I'll have it done this Summer and report on it. [ May 31, 2001: Message edited by: pparaska '] I just wanted to finish my report on this. I now have 225psi on the high side, about 15psi on the low side at 85 deg F. I realize that's low, but it cools well, and the compressor makes alot of noise as it is. But I get 45 degrees out of the vents even on a 95 degree day with 85%+ relative humidity. Works Great! The LTD blower fan is awesome. It will blow dry your hair as well . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Datsun660z Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Hey Pete, I have looked at your page about 1,000,000 times in the last three or four years. But I can't seem to find any clear pics of your AC pump mounting brackets. Are there any, and if so could you please point them out to me? Thank You. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted August 18, 2003 Share Posted August 18, 2003 Jon, no pics. It's so simple as to be ridiculous. Take a piece of angle iron (approx 1-1/4"x1-1/4"x1/8") about 9 inches long. Use the top two bolts from the motor mount/setback plate on the drivers side of the JTR mounting to hold the bracket. Weld two ears that stick up off one side of the angle iron that have a hole in them that passes the bolt that goes through the mounting lugs on the Sanden compressor. Weld in a piece of flat stock into the opening of the angle to box it off (make it stiffer). The really funny part is that the angle iron came from an old bed frame . The adjuster is just an internally threaded piece of bar stock (left and right hand threads) with rod ends in each end. Super simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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