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Need help with possible purchase


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I have found a z for $500. VIN, and door plate say it was built 1/74, so that makes it a 260z. I know that it was only made for 1 year and there were differences depending on the month produced. Some things the are confusing though, I thought they only came as 4 speeds but this is a 5 speed. Also i was looking at the sticker on the underside of the hood and it says the motor is the Nissan3 L24 146.0 C.I.D. Other than those mysteries i had a couple questions.

-Is the Early 74 260z good or bad?

-How do i find out what motor is in there?

-The seller told me it was running good about a year ago, before he parked it to replace a heater core (which he never finished, so hasnt driven since), and claims it should start right up.

- Any advice for this possible purchase?

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sounds like it's a 240Z, though the date seems a little odd. the 5 Speed is likely not the original tranny, likely it's from a later 280Z, the engine though we'll need a little more information. Look and wee if you can find the block number, and the head number. these will help us tell you what it is that's there for you. Pictures are a lot better too..

 

Make sure the title Vin matches both the vin plates and the Vin that's on the Firewall in the engine compartment.

 

$500 is a really decent price for a Z so if the title checks out then you should probably buy it but look on here about all the areas you should check for rust so you'll know what you're getting into.

 

Phar

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The VIN on the dash and on the door jamb match, but ill double check in engine bay(RLS30-0XXXXX), which does say a 240 i guess. The only thing i saw on the motor was R88 i think. Where do i look? I'll have to file for lost title. this guy has had the car 6 years and never got the title. should be able to just go to tax office and file for lost title, right?

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Where in Texas Skahide? you probably saw E88 that looked like an R88. From going through the head files I don't remember an R88 being discussed. You probably have a 240z there. Depending on your end goal with the car. I speak based on the combined advice of almost everyone that has posted on this subject but the MOST important things are how much rust and how straight? My car didn't have any rust but I was so blinded by that fact I overlooked the slightly crumpled front driver's frame rail in the engine bay which subsequently lead me to find that the upper frame rail driver's was tweaked. Fortunately my car is square but in the future is going to cost me. I would rather have a straight car with minimal rust than one that may take some work on the engine. Mechanical work is ALWAYS cheaper and more rewarding for the dollar.

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In East Texas near Tyler. I went and looked at it again today. I literally hooked up jumper cables and started it up. Called the guy and he was shocked saying it hadnt been started in 6 years (I must have misunderstood him before). I let it run, no over heating. Just a little white smoke when i ran it in high RPMs. Looked at the block and it IS a L24. AND IT IS A 4-speed. Tried to drive it but the clutch pedal felt like a dummy pedal (no pressure). I checked and there was VERY little clutch fluid, so i grabbed some brake fluid and tried to bleed it. BUT it would NOT build up pressure AT ALL. What do i need to do? The passenger side floor board is shot. Body has quite a bit of bondo and surface rust all over. Looked in hatch where spare would be and VERY minor surface rust. anyone have pics of what i should be looking for as points of concern? Im totally new to the classic cars. I currently drive a Infiniti G35 and it is so awesome to possibly buy a car that is its "great-grandfather". Lastly, what is the E88 mean?

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E88 is the most common head on the l24. Surface rust combined with Bondo is a VERY bad sign. The fact that there even is bondo is a sign that there is most likely rust beneath. The floor boards tend to be the first victims to rust, but if yours are already coming apart it's likely that there's more rust elsewhere.

 

A little white smoke at high rpms PROBABLY means bad head gasket and/or rings. You'll be looking at a rebuild or replacement in the near future. Get some hydraulic fluid, fill the clutch, and make sure it drives straight.

 

If you're decent with a welder or know someone who is, I'd say go for it. $500 is a good deal for a running car, even if it does need some work. If the frame rails, dog legs, or firewall are rusty enough that you can see through them, it might be a better idea to just walk away from this one. Search for "Mull" on here if you want to see why, he's a perfect example (and a great story to follow).

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The fastest way to tell is by looking at the passenger side of the block towards the rear of the engine, right at the top, just before the head. there should also be an identification plate for the car- engine series - HP - the family s30- and the displacement. this plate is on the passenger side strut tower next to the engine.

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Actually I like the zhome.com site. He has a side view of a z on his site that points to all the major rust areas. Remember that if you're not a welder and want floorboards replaced and done right it could cost you 1500 bucks for the job. That should give you an idea of how much money you can save by trying to find a car with as LITTLE rust as possible. Or you could just trade me your g35 for my Z, lol. Welcome to Z community. In the chassis/brake area and the welding/fabrication area of the forum there is an immense amoun of information on rust repair.

When a car sits for a long time the rings can stick in the ring lands. Most often I pull spark plugs and put a small amount of ATFin the cylinder and let it sit overnight, then turn the car by hand first, then try to start it up. IT will smoke like crazy at first, but helps in unsticking the rings. Your smoking could be from the rings just being frozen on the piston since hasn't run. The clutch probably means that you're loosing fluid somewhere in the systemone of the lines could be rusted, could be the masater cylinder has gone bad, they're fairly easy to replace. If you can properly bleed a clutch you can replace the components.

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Well, after looking the car over i guess i didnt realize how much rust there really was. I was kinda blinded by the great find and price. I am going to pass this one up. I have NO welding skills and from what i read, NOT EVEN CLOSE to enough money to do this right. Thank you guys for the assistance, youve saved me from a big mistake.

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No prob. That's what this place is about. Best of luck in the future. There are great finds out there. Depending on what sort of project you are looking for. If you want an early Z just keep your eyes open. The cancer gets these cars though, that's why mine doesn't go out unless it's sunny.

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