emeraldlion

that magazine picture is pure auto-rotica. I never can get enough of sidewall wrinkle. Well deserved recognition for a truly excellent Z!

Guess I should have specified that some insulation and carpeting would go on. Guess it wouldn't add enough support/stiffness to be any more beneficial than a strut bar or roll bar welded in.

I have looked through some builds and haven't seen this so I assume there is a reason to not. I was thinking that maybe welding a firewall behind the seats, maybe just forward of the toolboxes would block off some noise and maybe add some stiffness. I don't know that I will ever have a full rollbar or anything like that. If it was cut to fit the car, and stitch welded around the edges to the body, would this be of any benefit, or have I been eating to late again and having weird Z dreams?

You have to remove the tail light housing completely. nuts inside the car, just take 'em off. The plastic cover is screwed to the housing.

Looking for a tokico hp set springs/struts if anyone has one laying around or is switching to coilovers.Preferably not beat to heck, but if theprice is right...

Love following your progress Sunny. I don't think I will ever need this level of rear end, but it's good to know that someone is paving the way and documenting it well. Want you to know after bolting up my 9" th350 with your driveshaft everything runs like a champ. No vibrations and driveshaft fit perfect.

When it comes to you Tony, not sure if that last statement is a joke or serious. What amp are you running your klipsch's off of? I have a pair of cornerhorns that I would love to run on a vintage stereo amp. My dad has an early Yamaha natural sound that I am going to give a try this weekend. Right now my newer onkyo does okay, but I don't feel it's doing my horns justice.

I see what you mean dky, never really thought about doing that, but I do see how it's an option.

Good to know, thanks!

Call me ignorant, but I am not seeing a big difference b/w these and the rewinds. Someone please enlighten me.

Lowered springs are shorter. There is a thread in the FAQ suspension forum where JohnC goes over free length vs. compressed length on the tokico blue springs for 280z. This is a good starting point to judge length for chevette springs. Cut them a little long then put on car and compress, see where you are, then uncompress and cut more while still on car. BTW, I definitely want to see more pictures of your car. Some of the tube front end, mounting of the 455 etc.

Soudned to me like he had stock struts. Personally I don't feel like taking the struts off and modifying them at this point in my project, that's why I chose to go with the chevette springs.

There is a pretty big difference in rate and length to run them uncut. I bet your car will look like a monster truck. If you have corner weights JohnC has an equation somewhere that will help you find out what your compressed height will be. I plan on running the cut chevette psrings on the rear, and running cut 280 rears on the front. I have a sbc though. Remember cutting the chevette springs will get you a rate increase. with the extra length you might be able to see as much as a 5-10% rate increase depending on how much you cut. That should put you around 220#

IIRC, the turbo forum had something similar to the above concept. I had to post in the "about me and my build" thread which was supposedly reviewed by admins before I was allowed to post in the other forums. I thought it was a good idea. My most recent frustration was a post in the v8 forum about a carb choke. The poster just wanted to be handed information. Did not appear to know the difference between manual and electric choke etc. I am 29 so I may be just slightly older than the newest wave of "entitlement" youngsters, but It has gotten out of hand. I am 100% behind JohnC on this one. There is SO much valuable information on this site, and to be able to have an archive like this that isn't diluted by idiot posts is priceless. I am not without a couple of dumb questions, and mostly regretted them as soon as I went back and read them. All you have to do is go look at some of the other z websites to really appreciate the members and admins of this forum.

What happened to just taking your coil wire and locking it in the glovebox, or installing a lock on the tool compartment door and locking it in there? Just too time consuming anymore? 'Course, now that I think of it, most of us aren't running coil wires anymore are we...gotta love advancements in tech.

Nice pieces! Take pictures of the install, especially of your spindle pin related endeavors. I've always been impressed with the construction of the t3 pieces, considering the prices. I am a bit of an amateur though. Some of the more professionals might see some flaws

Well, I was going to say sell them the shortblock, especially if there is anything to be made or break even. I would have loved to have bought your longblock, but in all honesty it was just too much engine for my needs, and out of budget range at this point. You may actually have an easier time selling the various gen 1 valvetrain/intake/ignition bits in piecemeal here than the whole package.

Lol, Now I'm rolling. Way to get called out blu. Hope you find the site beneficial Taryn, looks like you have one heckuva Z.

Btw, that plastic connection holder gave me a headache as well. In the end I ended up going at it with my garden branch trimmers and chopped the heck out of it. They've worked well for cutting battery cable too. Best 25 dollar tool I've bought so far.

Looks good. Great background story on the z. I love to see cars that have stayed in the family and been passed down. Giving attention to a vehicle once cared for by your father is one of the top ways to remember him in my opinion. In my case it is a 1962 volkswagen van, which I will hopefull y one day give to my son as well.

Fred, if you haven't already I would read the v8 swap faq section. Lots of info. Go ahead and buy the JTR v8 swap guide and read it through 3 times, then read it again. It took me 2.5 year to have my v8 swap done. I bought pieces as I went, and looked for deals on the classifieds board. Excluding the car I'm in for under 2k for the swap. Gather as many pieces for the swap as you can before hand. Read as much as you can in the forum before hand. Don't let things pile on. Like Jason mentioned, the "might-as-wells" get you. Above all have fun with it. Right now I am using the stock 280z radiator in good condition with the ford taurus electric fan swap and my engine runs cool. It is a mild 283 swap. I have heard of 350 swaps doing okay with stock. If you were going hot 350 or 383 you might upgrade.

I would take it easy on the smart *** responses friend. He was just cracking a joke, kinda.

Are you talking about primer Tony? If so for some reason I don't remember the Z. That was a great movie though.

They don't offer the rear subframe connector for the 280 though. Interference with ARB mounts I believe. I don't know this for sure, but from looking at things, I think you could mount the rear sfc if you were to cut out the stock arb mounts and go to a rear mount setup for arb.

Thanks for the clarification.