Challenger Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Well, right now it idles pretty crappy. It doesnt seem to be able to stay at one rpm consistently, it will jump around at idle, die sometimes, etc. I dont want to contribute this to the emmisions/idle controls but the throttle response is a whole lot better. Before full throttle would actually kill the engine. Now the rpms shoot right up. Plans now are to fix the idling issue. Install a bov on the jpipe, maybe even make a new j pipe. If I can find one thats not too expensive, some kind of a/f ratio gauge to be able to tell whats going on in my engine and then get a muffler. My dad is having a fit and wont let me drive it as is. Its not really loud, but a imagine a muffler might be good... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daeron Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Found a valve cover gasket in my room.... Somehow I find that simply hysterical.... "Oh, hey, look!!! A New valve cover gasket!! Hell Yah!!" Well, right now it idles pretty crappy. Is that even after changing the injector wiring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted May 29, 2009 Author Share Posted May 29, 2009 Yeah Ive done that a couple times. A set of new rod bearings, dsm BOV... I was excited since I sold them for like $30 each. Still idles bad even with new injector connectors/wiring. Im starting to think its more something with my electronics since its somewhat speratic. I might need to pull my injectors off soon and get them all checked flow wise. It might be a matter of a couple cylinders getting more fuel then the others thus making it idle rough?? All I know is I need to get it figured out before I modify anthing else... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrariferg Posted May 29, 2009 Share Posted May 29, 2009 Saw his cars last night. Quite the drive to get there. lol. Absolutely loved the way 78 looks. If anybody else is ever in the area you should stop by and take a look. The Turbo sounds mean when its running. The engine bay is even cleaner in person. I wish I lived closer so I could help get the car running right. It was good to meet another Z enthusiast. I can't seem to find any around here. Thanks for all the parts for my dads car and the spoiler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 Well I have good news and bad news... Bad news- It was still running crappy and I was sitting there idleing and I heard a little pop and there was a little smoke coming from the engine bay. Went in and looked at the PCV tube had come off of the connection, not a problem, put it back on. Then it still wouldnt start so I looked again and the egr cap had popped off. So heres the bad news. I had sandblasted my intake manifold before capping the egr and painting the manifold. I thought I had cleaned it out enough, even washed it out after capping the egr so none of the water was able to cleanthe egr rail. Anyways I found directly behind the egr opening a little bit of oily sand sticking to my firewall... Im pretty sure most of the sand would have gone OUT of the engine but Im pretty sure some would have had to go in. :( So intake manifold will be coming off, probably need to do another compression test to see if everything is still fine. Im kind of pissed I didnt see this coming. Hopefully its just a matter of taking it all apart and putting it back together clean. I really dont want to have to pull the head. So good news- Got myself a glasspack and installed it. Also I was able to find a 1g DSM Bov in town for $10. Ill be picking that up monday. Ill probably just ditch the turbo intake and the stock pop off valve and put on one of my n42 egr intakes that had the egr opening capped realllllly well. We all make mistakes, this is obviously my big one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JSM Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 I haven't messed much w/ my 82 zxt, but just driving it around with 5 cyl only is still fun. However, at times it will run crappy. I mistakenly bumped the wires going into my ECU because I have no kick panel over it, and she came to life! Every once in awhile she will do this and I merely step on the wirles lightly w/ my foot going into the ECU and bam back to good. Kinda strange but maybe something to look into. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted May 30, 2009 Author Share Posted May 30, 2009 Yeah might check that once I get it back together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evan1242 Posted May 30, 2009 Share Posted May 30, 2009 you need to clean all of your electrical connections, and make sure that all of them are tight. i would recommend replacing all of the fuel injector connectors and the one that goes to the air regulator, and the one that goes to the CHTS. have you checked your fuel pressure yet? or the mechanical and electrical timing? also, make sure that you have a nice tight vacuum conection going to your FPR. it can give you trouble if you dont have a really good/tight vacuum hose on there. these are just some things to get you started if you have not already. good luck!! as for JSM, you need to actually take some time/effort to get down in there and clean the connections that go directly to the ECU. there are three of them, and make sure that they are nice and tight. with you kicking the ECU, you will probably ruin it over time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted June 1, 2009 Author Share Posted June 1, 2009 Alright little bit more good and bad news... Good news, got the intake off, cleaned it all with my pressure washer. It is perfectly clean, absolutely NO SAND ANYWHERE!!!! Also found the ports were just as clean as before the intake went on. Also doesnt sound like good news but the way I had my pcv lines hooked up it started spewing oil into my intake manifold which helped keep the sand on the walls rather than in the air and into the engine. Ill reroute the lines back to their original spots and that will clean up all the oil. Now the bad news. Turns out glass packs are a big no no on turbo engines.... Looks like jeffer949 along with a few others had very similar setups and actually found their car slower!! Ahh, itll be ok for now but it will be coming off as soon as the engine running good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Now for the ugliest thing Ive ever made!.... The battery tray! I was poking around and noticed that there wasnt anything to poke.... Pulled out the rust and metal of the remaining tray and welded in my own. It is very very rough, but secure and it fits the battery well. So Im happy. Also picked up the BOV. $10!!! Just need to find a flange to get it mounted. http://www.angelfire.com/mo/JordanG/ They sell a flange with a small section of pipe for $25. Pretty good deal. Also filled the hole near the turbo side of the j pipe. You can see where its ground down. Found the flange and pipe for sale online so Ill hopefully pick that up. Redid the egr cap. Made it out of aluminum plate, and actually did it correct. Looking back I was in a rush to get the intake back on (obviously) and I just didnt make it strong enough, this one will hold great. Picked up a pipe plug to fit the pop off valve too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 You know you could of just made a cover to go over the top of the egr hole right? I took my old egr and used the bottom of it as a pattern and then i just cut out some aluminum plate and bolted it over the top with some gasket sealer. No jbweld and its reversible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Yeah but this looks alot nice and is alot cleaner for getting to the downpipe and rear part of the turbo. I wont be going back to egr so I dont need it reversible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ferrariferg Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 Thats what I plan on doing. I have 2 P90 intakes so if I decide to become more eco conscious then I can just swap them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted June 2, 2009 Share Posted June 2, 2009 But. JBWelld................yuckie.....lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted June 2, 2009 Author Share Posted June 2, 2009 Yeah. This is the only spot I would use jb weld on... everything else ill use METAL weld. Including my BOV mounting... (I read the thread, no jb weld on my BOV) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 So I got it all back together and it started right up. At first it was a little rough then I noticed the one vacume port I had left open for a BOV signal, put my finger over it and it idled fine. Took it out for a drive and was pretty easy on it, stayed close to or below 0 boost. Stepped on it a couple times for just a second and it seemed to pull fine, I got out of it pretty quick just to be safe. After a little while it started hesitating and would shake pretty bad if you revved it up. Now it doesnt want to idle nicely like before. Really has me stumped. Could this shaking be a miss on one of the cylinders? I did check the ecu connections, they were all clean. Also I had removed the air regulator and your left with a plug the same style as the fuel injectors. Can I just leave that as is or does it affect the ecu being that it isnt connected to anything? Last question, I looked into the fuel pressure test kits and gauges. A good gauges is about 15-20 dollars more than the tester. Im considering getting one hooked up so I can see what is going on. Im getting some grey smoke in the higher rpms that I believe to be fuel related. If I can see the fuel pressure as I rev it, might show if my fuel pump is still good, there are obstructions in the lines, fpr, etc. Does this sound like a good idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Man what a bummer. I would say remove injector plugs one by one, however you just did alot of work on those.... If it was na I would suggest ignition modual and I don't know as much about the turbo. I still have that afm if you want to give it a try. Can you drive it at all, maybe come on by, or I can come there sometime this weekend? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aarang Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 You cannot run the DSM BOV open to the atmosphere with the oem EFI. It will idle like crap and have dead spots. That BOV is open and bypassing quite a bit when the engine is running. If you recirculate it before the turbo, it will be OK. I basically had the same setup before my intercooler install and had to run it recirculated. Aaron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Challenger Posted June 3, 2009 Author Share Posted June 3, 2009 Well removing the injector plugs is pretty easy. I can get the intake/fuel rail off in about 15 minutes. Alot quicker then before. I dont really want to drive it much and get stuck on the other side of town with a dead engine. But yeah Im hoping to have this weekend free where we can get together and figure this thing out. Ill let you know later this week. Aaron, I think I mentioned I planned on recirculating. I might actually be ditching the dsm bov to get something adjustable. Im having a hard time figuring out exactly where it will relieve pressure. I actually have someone einterested in the BOV and if I sell it I will have made $15... not bad. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted June 3, 2009 Share Posted June 3, 2009 Hey challenger he was saying to take the injector clips off one by one to see if the car runs any differently. If it doesnt you have it narrowed down to that cylinder. so your not looking at the whole engine for the problem just that cylinder. You can do the same thing with the spark plug wires but be careful not to shock yourself. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.