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Anyone running stand alone, I have a q?


dizzle

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Heres a base timing map, load scale goes from 1 to 16 on top and rpm is the verticle side. This is a japan spec map so the timing if pretty aggressive. Adjust accordingly to whatever octane, turbo, boost, cr, etc you will be running.

 

Load> L1 L2 L3 L4 L5 L6 L7 L8 L9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

6400 34 49 52 52 50 43 37 35 33 32 31 30 29 28 27 26

6000 34 49 52 52 50 43 37 35 33 32 31 29 28 28 27 25

5600 34 49 52 52 50 43 36 35 33 31 30 29 28 27 25 23

5200 34 49 52 52 50 42 36 34 32 30 29 28 26 25 24 22

4800 34 49 52 52 50 42 36 34 32 30 29 28 26 25 24 22

4400 36 49 52 52 49 41 35 34 32 31 29 28 27 26 24 23

4000 38 49 52 52 49 41 35 34 32 31 30 29 28 27 25 23

3600 42 49 52 52 49 40 35 34 32 31 30 29 28 27 25 24

3200 40 49 52 51 48 38 36 34 32 31 30 29 28 27 26 23

2800 38 49 52 50 48 37 34 33 31 30 30 29 28 27 26 21

2400 36 48 51 50 47 36 33 31 30 30 29 28 27 26 24 20

2000 34 48 50 49 46 35 31 30 29 29 28 27 26 25 22 13

1600 32 46 49 48 44 32 30 28 28 26 23 20 16 12 10 06

1200 28 38 46 46 40 27 24 21 20 18 13 11 08 07 06 03

0800 24 32 32 32 32 18 16 16 13 12 09 07 05 03 03 00

0400 16 16 16 14 12 10 04 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00 00

rpm

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Well i am running the SDS system and it only gives a base timing setting, and then a advance or retard to manifold pressure value. I don't know if anyone is familier with this system on a RB but any advice would help a lot?

Does anyone here run SDS on their RB? It is a really slick system, easy to use, but my unit did not have the knock sensor input wire. So I can't monitor when it is knocking. So right now i just have it very conservitive. I am currently only boosting 11 lbs

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Knock sensing is built into every E and F ECU, you just have to install the pin and wire.

 

Starter map for RB's I use 15* at idle, advancing linearly to 35* at 3,500 rpm. Then use the Advance/Retard window to add 15* of advance at idle vacuum, tapering off to 5* in the cruising vacuum ranges.

 

Pulling timing depends on what fuel you're using. On Japan-spec pmp hi-oc, the 26 is happy running all 35* of the base map up to around 15psi...

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So you are familier with the sds em4-6f??

If so i need to get the pin out info for my unit so I can add that knock sensor wire as well as the Rpm switch. I would like to be able to hook up my VCT. And have you hooked up the VCT on the rb25det with the sds? What rpm should it turn on/off? And does it make any difference in power?

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So you are familier with the sds em4-6f??

If so i need to get the pin out info for my unit so I can add that knock sensor wire as well as the Rpm switch. I would like to be able to hook up my VCT. And have you hooked up the VCT on the rb25det with the sds? What rpm should it turn on/off? And does it make any difference in power?

 

Yes, I'm an SDS "top tuner" dealer. The "M" in MJR is for Motorworx :)

 

On the white injector coupler that goes into the ECU, RPM switch is pin #3 and knock sensor is pin #10. If you email them and ask for some pins, they'll sell them to you.

 

There's power to be had by using the variable valve timing feature. The only real way to determine the set point is to run the motor on a dyno in both modes. Where the two torque lines cross will be the cross over point. Of course, that's only for WOT.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Yes, I'm an SDS "top tuner" dealer. The "M" in MJR is for Motorworx :)

 

On the white injector coupler that goes into the ECU, RPM switch is pin #3 and knock sensor is pin #10. If you email them and ask for some pins, they'll sell them to you.

 

There's power to be had by using the variable valve timing feature. The only real way to determine the set point is to run the motor on a dyno in both modes. Where the two torque lines cross will be the cross over point. Of course, that's only for WOT.

 

 

From what I am reading the VVT (or what ever it is called) is supposed to come on at 1050 and then shut off at 4200 on a stock car anyway.

So what do you think would be the best way for me to hook this up to the SDS with sigle on/off RPM switch? I can get a RPM window switch and run it independent of the SDS, or should I just have it be on all the time and have the SDS rpm switch turn off the VVT at what ever point looks best on the graph?? I hooked it up to a button and turned it on at idle and it did not seem to kill the idle or anything. But I do not know if there is a negative to having it be on at idle.

Any tuning tips for me by the way?

Did a little AFR fuel tuning, and with the timing still set fairly conservative I out down 290 hp/ 224tq at only 11 psi. I want to get the engine dial'd in at the lower boost pressure first and then turn it up a little. I'd like to try and get that tq number up if possible.

thanks

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