josh817 Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Ehhhh here you go. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlcE2veSuv4 2 different videos for 2 different places. Sorry about that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun723 Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 Sounds good Josh! The paint looks good in the video and I'm sure once you wetsand it it'll really shine And keep the stereo. There's two types of music you get from a Z. One is from whatever stereo setup you have, and the other is from that lovely L28, or L31 in your case Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 I need a dyno day. My birthday/Christmas session was a dyno day funded by Dad but I think he has long forgotten about that... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris240zTurbo Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 You just missed the FTW Z club dyno day about a month ago, $35 for club members for 3 pulls, I didn't go, was out of town. Check the website www.cowtownzclub.com we've got some good stuff coming up, including a car show at Grubbs Nissan up in your area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeleriousZ Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I can't imagine those pantyhose aren't really restrictive. Does the car still 'blip' when you hit the throttle with those removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 Yah its something with the accelerator pumps I think. Its been discussed in the Weber sticky but I haven't messed with my carbs really. Have a box of jets but no o2 sensor or money to further tune. Oh and Chris, the site is all different from last time I've seen it. The Events section doesn't show upcoming things. :/ The blip happens only if you try to goose it with a lot of throttle. Like I said in the video, if you goose it slowly its fine, but say if I floor it, it chokes like that. Real pain in the ass if you stall out at a light and you have to floor it to get going because it will do that but when it gets out of its dead zone you are blitzkrieg across the intersection. Haha Edit: You can hear the same thing on the maroon Z with the video angle from behind the car I'm thinking maybe I can play with the timing when I get my EDIS 6 in. I'll be using Megajolt with the TPS rather than MAP so maybe I can advance the timing when the throttle is opened up at lower RPM or something. I don't know just yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woldson Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 I wonder if the pantyhose is restricting air flow too much. On a non windy day, remove them and see if the car has more steam on the upper end. Get gator belts. SOOOOOO worth it. Unbelievability quiet. And tough as all get out. Me don't care for raspy exaught (I hate spelling that word), me like deep sounds out the back. Its not a 4 banger. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 I like whatever works. I lurked around in the exhaust section on here and you guys were saying a properly tuned 6-3-2 header that goes into a 3" collector/pipe yields good power. I wanted to do dual 2.25" pipes but I didn't have the money and wanted the best scavenging effect. However, I think the primaries on this header are way too short (26") rather than the 36" and the book says have a pipe atleast 5-something inches long... So who knows. Panty hose should be less restrictive than anything else I would think. But you saw I needed to change them out anyways so I'll take them off. I've been waiting on a member to complete an air box and he said he would sell it to me for only the cost of the aluminum but he has disappeared so I guess I'll just get some K&N's. I have the type of belt thats grooved on one side, like a V-belt or something. I had this weird problem where the car wouldn't rev past 3000RPM on certain days. It sounded like a rev limiter hit or something. Thats what initially got me started on my EDIS 6 setup, but on a trip down to Texas World Speedway I did my usual checks before we left and I noticed I could turn the alternator with my hand even when the belt was on. I tightened it up and the RPM problem was gone. Apparently the belts stretch after a couple thousand miles. At that time I was hearing a squeaky noise too and I thought it was my cam biting the dust but it was the belt, so thats why I think it needs to be tightened again. Anyways, 2nd video is of the motor too! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZR8ED Posted June 25, 2009 Share Posted June 25, 2009 What makes you think that the "falling flat above 5k" is ignition related? Sounds like you have some tuning to do on those carbs. PM if you want some weber tuning help. Good job! Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted June 25, 2009 Author Share Posted June 25, 2009 Yes I'm thinking the same however I think ignition would help too... If I bring it up to 5 or 6k it feels like all my advance went away, has a hard time revving past there, and will make popping/gun shot noises. I read up that the HEI module craps out around that RPM and stuff so I'm not sure. The thing thats cluing me onto carbs is that it only happens while driving. You can see in the video, I revved it to 7k but I wasn't moving. So if its only a problem under load, perhaps its just getting really lean around there. I'll still do my ignition and brakes and maybe after that if I have some extra cash I will purchase a wideband like I originally intended to do. Megajolt has a 0-5v input and produces logs of the timing, rpm, tps/map, etc. So basically I can have a log with my rpm, tps, advance, and wideband! Saves me the money of buying a gauge. Only problem is that these widebands don't depreciate value... On ebay they sell used lc-1 setups for like $20 less than a new one so I have to be prepared to drop $180. Really not that much but with college and still much more to go on this car, I'm really pinching my cheeks on this one... If I had my way I would have 44mm Mikunis. I can get used/rebuild ones for about $1200 and resell these 40mm Webers. I won't do that until after college though I think. Rebuild the entire motor when I have a well paid job (hopefully). I'll keep my polished rods but I want ARP rod bolts, professionally ported head, bigger carbs, etc. A turbo is a lingering thought but I can't stand the wiring task. I WOULD say supercharge just because its so unique, but I don't like having boost all the time, nor does my wallet with gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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