DeleriousZ

It's used on the digital dashes as a type of 'load' meter, it's what makes the bars move vertically.

That's the best I can find.

I know the guy that made that setup I think!!

I like GOOOOOOOOOOOLLLDDD. But seriously, the gold looks fantastic with that colour.

an sr20det is not better/more powerful. If you have to ask if it will fit you are not prepared to complete any kind of swap. Find another vg30e and swap it in, they are everywhere, and a hell of a lot less expensive than an sr.

The stock setup is a draw through MAF, but people have run it both draw through and blow through. A car with a mass airflow sensor doesn't measure boost, in a sense, it measures the speed/density of the air passing through it. There is no boost sensor required on a z31, altho it does have one for both the turbocharged cars and the n/a cars with a digital dash. My input on supercharging a vg30e is to take a pass on it. The amount of work involved is definitely not proportional to the result of it. For the cost of a custom installation (depending on your resources and skill set) would be about the same as a stock turbo swap, depending on price of the supercharger. A stock turbo setup on an n/a engine is good for about 190-200ishwhp with an intake and 3" exhaust on it. The stock ecu will work, it doesn't care how the engine is receiving air, it just cares how much of it (basically.) You will want to match a turbo ecu up to turbo injectors of the proper year, see the link below for more in depth stuff. You will also need to worry about your o2 sensor depending on which ecu you choose to go with. The actual engine that the ecu is used for doesn't make a whole lot of difference, just as long as all of the sensors and fuel delivery stuff that are on the engine are correct for that ecu. linky: http://redz31.net/pages/fuel.html

Man that guy is like the Bob Ross of welding.

The axles differ between the LSD and non LSD's. The mounting points should however be the same. The input flange on the differentials may be different as well.

No, the knock sensor wouldn't cause a no-run condition, unless it was super loose causing it to falsely detect knock. Try unplugging the harness from the sensor and tie it out of the way somewhere.

Do the RPM's stay with the tach or is it just a busted tach? I'm not sure what would cause that. Any sort of rattle from the front of the engine is bad news. Electronic shocks are ~$2000 from the factory, so plan on going a different route if replacing the switch and tracing the wiring doesn't solve the problem.

http://redz31.net/pages/fuel.html

That is incredibly creepy.

get some good flux and some wire braid, it works pretty well. The fastest way IMO would be just to cut and replace. That way you can heat shrink it all.

Time for a time out.

I think you're a tad late on this one killer, this thread is over 3 years old.

lol oh man. As the saying goes: "The ls1 is like a retard on viagra, they'll stick it in anything"

What does the brand of the wheel have anything to do with the fitment troll?

Dude, thread is over 2 years old.

Full of win. Quite possibly the best fitting wheels in this thread so far

black window trim, 16" wheels, boost gauge (and or a gauge with both oil temp and oil pressure on one face)

I'm a huge fan of camber and stretched tires, but there's a point where it gets a little Too excessive. How would they even tow that thing??? It must have been Murdered getting it up onto a flat deck.

FWIW Here is my setup. I found the worst part was getting the NPT fittings to seal into the fuel rails.

What does your boost gauge read for vacuum with the intercooler installed? Has the IC been pressure tested? It sounds like there was a vacuum leak introduced when the intercooler was installed. To answer your original question, yes, an intercooler can be 'too big.' I would recommend a pressure release valve (in this case BOV) in almost any turbocharged system. Are they absolutely required in low boost, low airflow systems? Probably not. However when set up properly (recirculation with a draw through MAF setup) they'll increase performance, extend the life of your turbocharger, and draw less attention from the fuzz. Have you read the book 'maximum boost' by Corky Bell? If you haven't it's a good read to get you up to speed on the basic design of turbocharger systems, even if the book is quite old.

I can second this. I have the same regulator and the first few times I primed the fuel system before running the car and it was having a hard time holding pressure. Now that the car has been run for over probably a half hour it holds pressure a lot better after the pump is off.

Let's break it down. Fuel rails have a 1/4" NPT thread cut into them Fuel pressure regulator has -6 ORB (o-ring boss) ports. Most stainless steel hose fittings have female -an swivel fittings. So. Run 1/4" NPT male to -6AN male adapters from the fuel rail to the fuel line. Run -6orb male to -6AN male adapters on the fuel pressure regulator. This will allow your female -6an fittings to connect your fuel pressure regulator to your fuel rails. This is assuming your fuel pressure regulator is not mounted directly to one of your rails. Clear as mud?