The Infidel Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 I hate old bushings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phlebmaster Posted July 8, 2009 Share Posted July 8, 2009 Congrats! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Infidel Posted July 8, 2009 Author Share Posted July 8, 2009 now im off to do the diff mount. arghhh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Hmm I shoudl check mine. I just did my ball joints, tie rod ends, TC and LCA bushings, and new shocks. No more death shake. But I didnt realize those steering rack bushings go out. I have a set of poly so may as well change them out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Changing those rack bushings to poly is a great step in handling performance. These are a PITA to get in! Soak them in scaulding hot water for a while before trying. Use a lubricant too. There's not much room to work in with the engine in place. IMHO you should also leave the rubber coupling in the steering shaft. The poly here only transmits excessive vibration. That may make the difference on a 'track only' car but a DD is already rough enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datsun723 Posted July 20, 2009 Share Posted July 20, 2009 Holy monkey balls! Your bushings were horrendous! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Infidel Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 so i still have the death shakes from 35-40 and 67-75. although the shaking is better with the new rack bushings (which ill also second the "pain in the ass" factor for install). the car always shook a small bit, but nothing like this. it happened when i swapped wheels to the RB-Rs. so the plan is to go get them re check and balanced. i need to replace the rack boots, so in the process im going to do ball joints and repack the rack and hope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KenshinX Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 check the drive shaft as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Infidel Posted July 21, 2009 Author Share Posted July 21, 2009 Good idea, ill check that also since my mount is toast. But I find it unlikely because the vibration was instant when I swapped wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper Posted July 21, 2009 Share Posted July 21, 2009 Good idea, ill check that also since my mount is toast. But I find it unlikely because the vibration was instant when I swapped wheels. Seems kind of obvious..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Infidel Posted July 22, 2009 Author Share Posted July 22, 2009 [/size][/u][/b] seems kind of obvious..... i had them rebalanced today and it wasnt the issue. I hope my over sized and underline sentence makes it even more obvious that the shaking was a underlying issue made worse by more rotational mass. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ezzzzzzz Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 With these wheels mounted have you checked to ensure that all are actually seating flush? Could be a small wobble or even internal carcass separation. I saw this more that once working at Firestone 25 years ago. The only other thing that comes to mind is an out-of-round tire/wheel. This is based on your statement the the problem flared only when you mounted these. I had a new set of big tires on my old 720 and had a horrible vibration. Turned out the one tire was 1/8" out-of-round. It shook like the truck would come apart although the balance was dead on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 Rotational mass is irrelevant in causing vibration.. If anything, a heavier weight tends to dampen vibrations,(one reason why flywheels are heavy). Imbalance, runout, (axial and radial),(both rim and tire), ROADFORCE., concentricity, and other tire /wheel maladies, are your most likely issues. Was a ROADFORCE type balancer used for this last rebalance? What were the numbers??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jasper Posted July 22, 2009 Share Posted July 22, 2009 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145971&highlight=roadforce&page=2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
quicker240 Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Check 'em. Park the car, set the brake, put your foot on the top/front of the front tire and push hard toward the back (like you are trying to roll the car backwards with your foot). if the whole wheel/tire assy moves back, you need TC rod bushings. They can cause the kind of shake you are describing. Good luck with it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rsicard Posted July 23, 2009 Share Posted July 23, 2009 Also check the Lower Control Arm (LCA) inboard bushings. Then have the toe-in, and camber checked. Check the run-out, lateral and radial, of each wheel alone and the wheels with the tire mounted to make certain they are not TOO out of round or track. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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