How big's that nut?!

[johnc]

You chickened out too early! I ended up jumping up and down on the end of a 5' pipe attached to a 2' breaker bar. When the nut finally let go I fell to the ground with a thud as breaker bar and pipe went flying. But the nut was loose!

 

The next day I went out and bought an impact gun, at my wife's insistence.

[BLKMGK]

Okay, mounted this puppy in the vise and took a shot at it. One shaft popped right out w/bearings attacthced The other, the one that gave me problems earlier of course, refuses to come out. It moves part way and then stops - just sort of rattles in there. On this one the bearing is stuck in there good and isn't coming out with the shaft

 

Lastly, my adapters aren't quite fitting into the pockets correctly. I'm pretty sure a little grinding would drop them right in but I worry this will cause runout. I'm going to speak to a friend of mine who's got the tools to measure this about getting it all centered up Afterwards I'll find a machine shop to drill the stubs once I've gotten them out of course

 

Ideas on popping that last one out guys? I'm soaking it in oil right now

[pparaska]

Slide Hammer on the lug nuts.

 

I hope the swelling goes down soon .

[blueovalz]

BLKMGK, One cautionary note. I've never removed one of these type of nuts (grinded the peened part off too) that this did not affect or distort the threads in some way or another. Be sure to carefully inspect those threads. I finally bought the correct die after nearly siezing the new nuts onto the stubs trying to put them on. It was hardly noticable that they were distorted, and I felt the nut tighting up, but had no idea it would sieze on me.

[Modern Motorsports Ltd]

BLKMGK,

 

I thought you'd redrilled your rear stubs already? (and successfully on the car as I recall?) or you swapping 240 to 280 stuff? In later discussion with Scottie I was informed his original adaptors were made to be a tight fit and some grinding may be required.....you're right it could be out of centre afterwards...I talk about this on my web and its the reason I've altered the mechanism which centres the flanges on the 'revised' adaptors I"ll be making with Scotties blessing.

[Scottie-GNZ]

I was told by the machinist that a little deburring might be required on the adaptor, not grinding. He preferred to make them a little tight than loose. Since they were CNC-machined, I would expect them to be consistent. Not sure I would say the same for the flange. I would debur the the pocket, see where the flange is tight an lightly file that spot.

[BLKMGK]

Actually there was some swelling involved, missed the damned wooden block and smacked my hand at least once

 

The stubs I'm goingto try and use are 280 tubs. I figure if I'm going to the effort of swapping to stronger axles I might as well upgrade the stubs too I don't have a slide hammer either so I'm not yet sure how to remove that one stub, I may try to press it out at my friend's shop if he'll let me but I'm honestly not sure it'll be terribly easy to setup.

 

As for my threads... I actually cut of the peening on on of the nuts completely. That nut came off with ZERO distortion, it looks really good! he first stub however I ended up drilling down the side and splitting, some of that drilling hit the threads and one single hread was slightly distorted. I've run the remaining good nut up and down those threads, no problems. I too was concerned about seizure but it looks like I dodged that bullet this time around. I appreciate the heads up!

 

Lastly, the adapters. First and foremost I'm finding NO fault with the adaper!!!! The stub flange is what I suspect isn't real consistant, it looks cast. I'd need MAYBE an 1/8th inch of grinding on each side, probably less, to get it in. It's REAL close with the problem being the width of the short sides. That is to say the "width" standing it up so it's tallest is a bit much. As I mentioned, I can grind this but if it's off a C hair will it matter? I just don't want to introduce any runout is all and if I start filing and grinding I might. Will be discussing this at lunch with a friend who has access to machgine tools to see if he's willing to measure and cener everything up for me. Not faluting the adapter at all, just tyring to get it as close to perfect as I can while I've got it all apart. Well, mostly apart

 

Hrm, hope I don't have this much trouble with the stubs on the car when I swap them! What bearings will I be using for that? 280? I seem to recall something about a machined spacer for specific bearings or was that for the R200? Can I simply order up 280Z bearings and seals or is there special precautions that should be taken here? Not in a big rush to be honest, have to drill these stubs and will probably do an E-rake from SCCA/Mike when I finally pull the darned car apart sometime this Winter

[pparaska]

The machined spacer is for the 240 and 280 stub axles. The housing is stamped with an "A" "B" (usually looks like an "E") or a "C" denoting which spacer to use. I've never seen anything but a "B" on 4 cars. The bearings and spacers are the same for the 240 and 280Z stubs.

[johnc]

And only buy Nissan, Timken, or SK bearings. Pay extra money for the best parts.

[BLKMGK]

Hrm, so I could maybe use the spacer that's already on the car then? Would the spacer iself say what it was? I've never noted any markings on the housings - the 280 or the 240 ones Where is th emarking?

[pparaska]

I don't remember where the strut housing is stamped, but it's somewhere on the cast part.

 

The spacer is stamped at about half length. The B usually looks like an E, since the stamp they used was flat.

 

Yes, use the spacer that came with the strut housing.

[280Z28]

So it was clearly covered that the nut comes off with:

 

1. have someone hold axle(s) in place with bar between a pair of bolts (hammer/breaker)

2. use a 27mm socket on a 1/2" 400+ ft lbs impact wrench

 

Don't even bother trying to do it another way, waste of time.

 

I'll add an easy way to get the flange off the spline. I needed to re-use my flange when I swapped to the R200 LSD because it fit my driveshaft and the one that came on my LSD didn't (or maybe one didn't come on the LSD, I forget).

 

1) get a small (2"x2" or so works and it's ) 1/4" think piece of steel plate or a 1/2" bolt. don't use a part you need. Don't say I didn't warn you.

2) get an air chisel. if you're using a bolt instead of steel plate, make sure you use a notched chisel.

3) place the plate or bolt against the back side of the flange. squat over the diff and hold back with your feet where it starts to narrow. press (firmly but make sure you will keep your balance if you slip) the air chisel against it, and let that hold it in place, NOT YOUR FINGERS!! Angle the chisel so you're as close to the center of the flange as possible yet still facing "along the shaft" (in the direction you want the flange to go -- off).

4) pull the trigger. let the chisel do the work. use short bursts to make sure it stays on the protective plate/bolt and centered on the flange. let the chisel do the work. the flange will walk off the end in under 5 seconds.