Jump to content

My experience with the Z31 TT CV install


Recommended Posts

Well I thought I had been having issues with my ujoints/half shafts so I finally arranged to get the cv's that have been in my front closet installed.

Like a good little HybridZ'er I searched relentlessly throughout the forums to make sure that I was as prepared as possible. There is TONS of info on this scattered throughout the forum, finding it can be a tad tedious however.


Anyway removal of the stock shafts was pretty straight forward, removed the bolts on the companion flange and pop'd the other end out of the differential. Hole thing 'slid' out pretty smoothly, I was impressed. The axle nut however, was "fun" to say the least. We had an air impact and it wasn't budging, thru the torch on it and then hit it with the impact and it finally let go and came off.


I realized about this time that I didn't write down which side got the longer of the two shafts :ugg:. So I called my friend and got him to search the site for me. Shorter goes on the passanger side iirc.


So I've also read that people recommend flipping the cages on the CV's so I did that. Messy but very straight forward with the PDF file that is floating around on the site.


Further to that people suggest to 'trim' the ends a little to eliminate the possibility of binding within the differential. This is where I/we learned something. There is a reason the very tips of the shafts are tappered, to get the lock ring (or whatever you want to call it over the shaft so it will lock into place). So when you cut the ends like this picture,diff_4.JPG just before the splines start make sure to have them slightly tappered or else it will NOT lock into place in the differential. We were stumped for god knows how long as to why it would not 'click' into place. We tried a little force but nothing. We put the stock back in and "click", son of a ... then we placed them side by side on the ground and it hit us. Unreal. A little tapper and 'click'. :lol:


I used companion flanges from a local ontario Z car member and used the 280zx axle nut but needed to trim the threaded end of the stub axle so the CV would sit flush to the adapter. I needed to get some slightly longer bolts to mate the flanges and the cv's as the stockers wouldn't allow me to use a lock washer but a quick stop to canadian tire and some grade 8 bolts were found.


All said and done I could do this in like 1/3 the time with the knowledge of doing it once. the only 'problem' could be those silly axle nuts that are on there to like 23094gagillion lb/ft of torque. (that is an exact amount, i checked).


Good times. The car feels great and smooth and no binding, no noises just good driving. :)


What was nice was that this was done on saturday and saturday night I drove down to Niagara for Scrape By The Lake (a huge car show) and took 3rd place sunday for Nissan Sport Compact class (2nd yr in a row to be 3rd).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's great that it worked out! Many have told me I should make the swap as well. I keep telling myself that yes I have a lot more power going to the wheels, but my axles are almost perfectly horizontal, and that it is driveline "angles" that really hurt UV joints. I am coming up on 10 years with my VG30ET swap, and I haven't broken a ujoint since I had my welded diff in the car more than 12 years ago.


Congrats on the show too!



Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Janaka: I second Savage42 question about trimming the inboard ends of the CV half shaft. Where have you seen this written? If you have something written about same please share. There is a locking ring contained within the differential. It never occurred to me to measure the former stub shafts removed from the R200 center section and compare them to the CV half shaft inboard ends. That is to say, is there a difference in measurement between the two? I just snapped my Z31 CV half shafts into the R200 CLSD center section and was done with it. After shortening the rear struts per John Coffeys write up the rear wheels and stub axles have a positive camber when the rear "A" arms are adjusted so there is adequate room for the CV half shaft. Make sense?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got 4:11's installed and I beleive the carier is fliped. So the long CV will be on the oposite side. Will this cause and issue? is the diff out of center?:weird:

I've figured it out.


Because i've got 4:11 gears the cariere is swaped inside the diff. I had to swap the inside joint (non servicable side) from one shaft to the other to get the length back to normal.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...