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ltl help please, buying a z


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hey guys and gals, i am back in the market for a z. my plan is to put a sbc in the car with in a year. i have a few of the parts and the jtr book. i have been looking around wear i live and have found a few different cars. i will list the cars below and i was looking to see what the best deal and platform would be for the 350hp chevy. thanks mark...

 

1971- 240 may need starter. Comes with car cover, (2) new struts in box, extra parts. Very neat car but have not driven in 3 years. rust at a min----(1500 does not run or drive)

 

1977- 280 5 speed transmission, partial restored, -New Brakes-New Master Cylinder-New Clutch Cylinder-New Slave Cylinder-New Electric Fuel Pump, gauges will run and can drive rust at a min---(1700 runs and drives)

 

1977-280 Datsun with a straight 6 which does not run and has fuel injection problems. Good interior and good body except for some rust on the bottom quarter panels. Car has brand new tires and rims are in good shape still. good amount of rust but not extremely bad----(700 does not run or drive)

 

1978 280 This car is in great shape for its age and just needs a little work to get running it builds compression but wont fire I think it just has some stale gas. Awesome car for a project I love this car and it is a beauty It has the 5speed tranny with a stock L28E and it only has around 100k on it. Interior is Pretty much MINT. rust at a min---(1000 does not run or drive)

 

1978 280 in great shape no rust at all paint in great shape runs and drives every day. 4 speed 2500

 

sorry for the long post and thanks for any input.

 

mark

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The 280 bodies are more robust than the 240s and will handle the V8 a little better. The rest of the choice depends on what look you want. The 240 has a way better looking bumper set-up than the hideous energy absorbing bumpers on the 280. Look also at the differences in the dash and console. You may like one more than the other. For performance, I'd go 280, but for a drop in engine and driving like a normal person, go 240.

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Your choice really all comes down to personal preference. For the V8 swap, some people like the 240z (low weight) and some (me included) prefer the 280z (once the awful "park bench" bumpers are gone :D).

One thing that you really should consider is the fact that CA has horrible smog laws. I am not sure about the particulars, but I believe that you can only swap an engine that was offered in that model line (i.e. the 280zx engine into a 280z). Hopefully somebody who has already dealt with the smog ordeal can provide you with some information.

For ease of a swap, I would recommend getting a pre-1976 car.

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Your choice really all comes down to personal preference. For the V8 swap, some people like the 240z (low weight) and some (me included) prefer the 280z (once the awful "park bench" bumpers are gone :D).

One thing that you really should consider is the fact that CA has horrible smog laws. I am not sure about the particulars, but I believe that you can only swap an engine that was offered in that model line (i.e. the 280zx engine into a 280z). Hopefully somebody who has already dealt with the smog ordeal can provide you with some information.

For ease of a swap, I would recommend getting a pre-1976 car.

 

he's in fort bragg, north Carolina, dont think he has to deal with smog, also in CA you arent limited to the model line, theres a ton of info on it on the web, if your interested.

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he's in fort bragg, north Carolina, dont think he has to deal with smog, also in CA you arent limited to the model line, theres a ton of info on it on the web, if your interested.

Ah, I saw Fort Bragg and automatically assumed Fort Bragg, CA (former resident of NorCal...)

 

Lee

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I'd recommend the $1000 78' 280z. if it's low rust and mint interior (green? haha! just kidding). the 78' should handle the torque on the V8 and it's easy to get parts still. Starting with as complete as you can is a big deal since you can easlly spend $1000 restoring a car to 1/2 way decent. Getting it running shouldn't be a big deal, since there's not a lot that goes wrong with these. Though an AFM or thermotime can ruin your day if you lose one. But swappign to megasquirt ould solve all that anyway. If you get this one, $10 bucks says it's corroded injector wires. Clean/replace those and I bet it runs. All your options sound doable. it's a matter of which you like best. Do your homework tho.

Pretty much that's my 2 cents. let us know when you make your choice & post picts. .

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