ukcats07 Posted September 12, 2009 Share Posted September 12, 2009 I can't seem to find the dimensions for this pan, but it does have the dipstick tube setup in the pan already (i.e. no welding or fabricating the summit one Z8's write-up calls out) for my 302 conversion. My block does not have a rear-sump dipstick hole in the block. Here's a link to the pan I'm talking about It's a dual sump pan and looks like it will work but if anybody has dimensions, or can find them, that would be great. If not, I'm probably going to go with a Canton style 7qt pan. The only thing that bothers me is that it's a 9" sump vs. the 7.25" from summit--ground clearance for the pan is something that definitely worries me. thanks doug Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted September 14, 2009 Share Posted September 14, 2009 You don't want a 9" deep sump. If you lower the car, the factory 7.5" deep sump gets pretty close to the ground. I had Kevco racing make me a 6.5" deep front sump pan with dual kickouts, racing gates, and a matching oil pump pickup for about $200.00. I now have 7 quart capacity, better oil control, and an extra inch of ground clearance. The guys at Kevco were great to work with. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukcats07 Posted September 15, 2009 Author Share Posted September 15, 2009 Thanks for the info. I went ahead and purchased the Capri pan. I'll post how it works out when I get around to installing the engine and tranny. It looks like it's going to be identical to the summit pan that Z8 calls for in his writeup, just with the dipstick tube built into the pan. Hopefully it is. [edit] should have clarified, I bought the stock replacement Capri pan. Not the 9" racing sump pan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukcats07 Posted September 28, 2009 Author Share Posted September 28, 2009 (edited) Okay, I got my pan and when I go to install it I have like 3/4" of slack where the pan will not lay flat on the block... Is it possible I got a V6 pan instead of the 302 pan? Am I missing something obvious here? Here's the link to the pan I bought, ugh this is frustrating... So after researching a little bit, I found that a high-volume pump might need "minor pan modifications". I checked my dynagear part number and sure enough I have a high volume pump. Is there that big of a difference (height-wise) between a high-volume and standard? I was getting pissed thinking that I got a pan that wasn't what I paid for. Edited September 28, 2009 by ukcats07 research Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jim Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 The dual sump pan requires a different oil pump pick up screen than the normal front sump screen. The high volume pump shouldn't be a problem. Did you use a oil pump pick up screen with a long tube which picks up oil from the rear sump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukcats07 Posted September 30, 2009 Author Share Posted September 30, 2009 Thanks Jim I picked up a standard volume pump at Auto Zone and the pan fits nicely. Unfortunately I didn't realize I needed a main cap with a stud for the rear sump pickup....ordered one the other day and I should be ready to button up the bottom end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Just Jim Posted September 30, 2009 Share Posted September 30, 2009 The rear sump pick up screen attaches to a special main bolt with a stud on the hex end. No special main cap required.Did you end up having to change the pick up screen or just the oil pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukcats07 Posted October 1, 2009 Author Share Posted October 1, 2009 Yeah, I wrote that last post wrong. I ordered the Canton main cap bolt with the stud for the pickup, not an actual main cap. I ordered the summit pickup for rear sump oil pans (part # 123459) and it all fits perfect. Now I'm extremely confused on bolts for attaching the timing cover and water pump.. I see kits for aluminum timing cover and aluminum water pumps and ones for iron timing covers and aluminum water pumps but none for alum. timing cover and iron water pumps..ugh. I'm guessing that it does matter which set I buy otherwise why would there be different sets for different combinations. Any insight from anyone? I have an early model alum. timing cover with the dipstick in the front (which I will be tapping and plugging). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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