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Brake Pedal Play Under the Dash...


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Hey guys, last week I was having a master cylinder bypassing internally. Yesterday it was swapped out, bench bled, and all 4 corners were re-bled as well in the correct order. However I noticed that I have a decent amount of pedal travel before I would get any resistance. I thought it might be the adjustable pushrod in the booster between the booster and master cylinder. It did need some adjustment to make it a tad longer, it didn't solve the slop issue.

 

Next I decided to look under the dash and quickly found the issue. The pedal arm swings back and forth to and from the firewall. There is also a rod that the pedal arm pushes on to the booster to work the brakes when the pedal is depressed. There is about a 1" gap between the 'U' shaped end of the rod and the pedal arm before the pedal arm even touches the 'U' shaped end.

 

So, how is this adjusted or what to I do about it?

 

Thanks guys!!

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It should have a pin that passes thru the clevis (the U shaped piece) and a hole in the brake pedal. Yours has probably fallen out. It's a round pin with a bobby pin style clip on the end.

 

Did the new master solve the brake problem?

 

jt

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It should have a pin that passes thru the clevis (the U shaped piece) and a hole in the brake pedal. Yours has probably fallen out. It's a round pin with a bobby pin style clip on the end.

 

Did the new master solve the brake problem?

 

jt

 

I thought the same thing, but there is no hole in the pedal arm for a pin to slide through.

 

I think I came up with a temp solution anyway by sticking a 5/16's bolt through the space between the 'U' shaped piece and the pedal arm. Its taking up 99% of the slack and was easy.

 

The master cylinder was the problem as I suspected. Against my better judgment I replaced it with a reman unit after going to 3 different parts stores and ordering a new unit only to get a call a day later that they couldn't get a new unit afterall from their suppliers at the prices quoted. So I went ahead and bought a reman unit and crossed my fingers. If it fails it has a lifetime warranty, but if it does fail I will prob just bite the bullet for a brand new piece instead of having to swap out a master cylinder every so often, even if it does cost me $150+ for a brand new one.

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What master did you put on? Was it the ZX 15/16in? I have a similar issue but havent adjusted the pedal. Hopefully that will take out the little bit of slack but not cause the brakes to drag...

 

Stock 280z (not 280zx) master cylinder. I was advised by several that going to the 15/16" master would not be a good idea due to stock 2 piston calipers.

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110% there is a spot for a pin on the pedal arm. If I were you I would put a pin or bolt in it ASAP. You could damage your new master due to the odd offset forces you *could* place on it without the pin.

 

That's the one good thing about the reman master, lifetime warranty.

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