batou

Check and make sure you are not missing a tooth on the flywheel.

Forgot to mention, probably listed on that site, but it is much easier to turn the engine if you pull the plugs first.

It may not be the best, but I love your engine bay. Thats what I aspire to Nigel

Don't use the remote start switch, just turn the engine by the cam gear bolt and a wrench, make sure its in neutral though.

I would recommend lithium grease (white grease) it is more moisture resistant than regular grease and less prone to breakdown.

IE you will have to split the case, cant do it through the shifter hole.

Why not buy 4 drive up ramps, drive up the front 2 and use a floor jack to place the rear 2 under the tires?

One thing I think would screw this up completely. What if you have wider tires installed, would make your contact patch much larger and not change the weight much. Also wouldnt PSI stay around the same range?

310z, Is that stock ride height or do you have lowering springs?

Too bad its illegal in most states...

So how well do they work? I didnt quite catch what setup you used. Maxima brackets/calipers?

Lowes and home depot has it, ill let somebody else chime in about the gauge... I think it is 16g but I am not positive.

Thanks for the write up Meph! -- Bookmarked

I would recommend buying a potentiometer at radio shack and wiring it up to give yourself a volume control.

Make it a Zip file, then post it? Edit: just looked in the downloads directory, the first post includes a .pdf file.

110% there is a spot for a pin on the pedal arm. If I were you I would put a pin or bolt in it ASAP. You could damage your new master due to the odd offset forces you *could* place on it without the pin.

For other people who find this thread looking for tank advice here is some info that took me a good while of searching on the net to find. Since you pulled out about a square foot of old liner out of your tank there is a good chance that the rest of the stuff is flaking off and plugging things up. Go to lowes/homedepot, and in the paint section buy 2 gallons of MEK (about 22$ each) and slosh that stuff around to dissolve the old liner. While your there you might want to get some rust preventer with phosphoric acid. Word of WARNING MEK is Extremely flammable, so be careful with it. After cleaning up the tank you may want to reline it with a higher quality liner, I have heard good stuff about "Red Cote" you can still pick it up at oreillys for about 20$ a can, you will need 2 cans. I know alot of the older guys that give advice about cleaning your tank would say to take it to a radiator shop and have them boil it out for you... now that is good advice, But nowhere in my area was there a rad shop that still did that.

While you check the fuel filter, make sure there is not a bunch of crap in the fuel tank.

Congrats! On another note, I think that was the third time Ive had to agree to the rules lol.

I believe the lock pin is no longer necessary due to using a bolt that has a head, whereas the spindle pin has a nut on either side that must be removed, ie remove one, and without the locking pin the spindle pin is apt to just spin and not allow you to remove the nut.

I 2nd you selling some of these, I would take a set for my 280!

Something like this should be a sticky... I need to go out and check what kinda fluid i stuck in my 4speed. Edit: yep, gonna have to drain my tranny and get something else.

email them to batou1 at gmail dot com and ill host em for you.

I have found it good practice not to toss anything until you know the new stuff works. Even then I keep one or two of a set in case something breaks.

yes reuse the old "washers" May want to clean em up while your at it.