Guest Anonymous Posted July 21, 2001 Share Posted July 21, 2001 Does any one know where I can find information on how to build a SBC 302. I need to know all of the specs, plus some instructions on how to build it. Just wondering is there a book telling you how to build an engine from the ground up, like step to step instructions, if you know of one that would be great too? Thank you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest super280z Posted July 21, 2001 Share Posted July 21, 2001 hey dude if your lookin for the specs on building 302 chevy, chek out mortec.com its a pretty cool site with all the chevy casting numbers and journal sizes, crank throws, nd other really cool chevy stuff. im prettysure its a bored 283 motor or a destroked 327. good luck a 302 would be a great motor patform for a z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted July 21, 2001 Share Posted July 21, 2001 The 302 is the ultimate Z car motor IMHO. There are a couple of different ways to go about it. One is to bore a 283 .125, which is highly suspect and only a few blocks can go that far. The easies is to get a 283 crank and install in a small journal 327 block. All small blocks except the 400 use the same 5.7" long rod. Just large (2.1) or small (2.0) crank bearing. Get a set of small journal rods rebuilt and buy a set of aftermarket 302 pistons in weight and compression of your choice (or one that you and your wallet can agree upon!)Stud and align hone for the new crank. Have rotating assembly balanced and assemble as any other small block. The 4" bore block lets you use big valve heads for maximum unshrouding and airflow. For a street car, I recommend flat tops and 64cc chambers for ~9.5;1 or so compression. A cam with duration in the 230 deg range at .050 should pull to around 7000 rpm in a 302. Try motorbooks.com for "how to rebuild" and "how to hotrod" your small block chevy. Can't go wrong with GM manuals for assembly specs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted July 22, 2001 Share Posted July 22, 2001 im not sure but when i was looking for a set of 302 chevy pistons they where alot more than i was willing to spend.....so i went with a long rod 400 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin Shasteen Posted July 22, 2001 Share Posted July 22, 2001 NoUseForaName292, A rather inlightening book I found as a "Step-by-Step" SBC [How-To] was: How To Build The Small Block Chevrolet" by Larry Atherton & Larry Schreib w/Copywrite Date of 1993 & Published by SA-Design. Their undercaptions read, Easy,Step-by-Step Approach, covers all SBC's. I've read thru it & it appears to be complete. Their authors brag on the fact that they've left no stone unturned & that they have a picture for every step. They also brag that you dont need "ANY" previous experience providing you use their book as a guide. Nothing vague in it. Buy it/order it from your nearest bookstore....you wont be disappointed. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted July 22, 2001 Share Posted July 22, 2001 302 Pistons are very pricey since it is not a commonly built size anymore Expect to pay about 30-60 per piston. 30 being for a 4 valve relief TRW/Speed Pro flat top and 60 for a Ross/Wiseco/JE lightweight piston. It is a perfect motor for a light sports car since it has a broad 1500-6500 rpm power range, similar to a Datsun L2.4, actually. The fact that a mild 302 should make around 300hp and 300lb ft. makes it perfect to use behind a somewhat fragile T5, and with it's short stroke it is 7000rpm plus capable with good rods. Another advantage to the small journal version of the 302 is that bearing speeds are slower so longevity in a high rpm environment is better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike C Posted July 23, 2001 Share Posted July 23, 2001 If traffic is at all a concern, the rod length is probably a non-issue. Most of the lightweight pistons will be designed for a 1/16 top and second ring which would reduce durability on a street driven car. Better money would be spent on aluminum heads with fast burn style chambers which would also let you run more compression. You'd need at least a 2500 rpm stall converter for the 302. A 327 would probably be a better cheaper solution with an auto. In my experience, the rpm's are the number one killer of automatics more than total power output, so the slightly torquier and lower rpm range of the 327 is more suitable (my 331 used to eat TH350s like no body's business in my Camaro. Shifted about 6800 rpm.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted July 23, 2001 Share Posted July 23, 2001 Kevin, I have that book--it was the first engine building guide I ever read cover to cover. Very good for the first-time builder. Very easy to understand and put into practice. Davy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted July 23, 2001 Share Posted July 23, 2001 What do you guys think of going JE and using 6" rods on the 302? I know that the short stroke already gives the 5.7" rods a better rod/stroke ratio, but this would take even MORE side-load off the pistons and let it run more compression to boot. I must say I a seriously considering using a 302/w/auto on my '75 project (I have an '83 Turbo 5-speed and am tired of shifting in Atlanta traffic). You think this is overkill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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