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Crazyoctopus 1972 240z build up (long first post)


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We were having issues last weekend with the engine being temperamental, and figured that it was due to my use of points. So we went out and I picked up a GM HEI ignition module, MSD blaster 2 (oriley's priced matched to $35!), and attempted to wire it up following the standard SITE. Unfortunately it wouldn't start up, at all. I was using plubers tape, and zip-ties to hold it in place, so I knew that the issue was due to the module not grounding correctly.

 

This morning I went down to the local hardware store and picked up a 3" L bracket at about 1/8" thick, some boltsnutswashers, and some electrical tape. I got back to the house and with the help of a ball-peen hammer, and a drill i was able to flatten the bracket out and drill a new hole so that it would gourd to the chassis well.

 

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After that i plugged everything back in, and brraaapppp; she started right up. I waited for her to get warm, and then started to tune the idle. The carbs are pulling 3.5-4 on the synchrometer, idle screws are out 3/4 of a turn, and she is idling at 650rpm.

 

 

While I was at it, and with the hope that she would be moving under her own power, I took Dsalni's advice and cut my fenders an inch in the front so that the tyres would no longer rub.

 

 

Then I took her for a quick spin, and zombie barbecue... she sounded amazing! Tomorrow I will be taking her out into the real world of stop and go with coffee and cigarettes, so we will see how she is really doing.

 

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There are still a couple of things that I need to work out before I rip the wiring out of the car...

 

-Figure out why the brake pedal is as hard as a rock. It is either that the brake booster isnt getting the vacuum it needs, doubtful, or that the 15/16th brake master cylinder that I just picked up at the junkyard needs to be re-built.

 

-Tach doesn't seem to like to go above 5k rpm, but I am pretty sure there is some resister that i need to add, need to search a bit (unless you know off hand wink.gif

Edited by crazyoctopus
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the hole was there when i bought the car, I am probably going to cover it up with a sticker as I really don't like bondo. All the rust was removed from that area and I painted over it quite well so I am not worried about rust in that particular area.

 

The float finally came in today! and after the install and letting the car idle for a minute or so no fuel was leaking out of the carb! Issue resolved!! I have a slight exhaust leak, but i probably need just just tighten the nut down a bit further, so I am not worried about that in the slightest.

 

I do, however, have to re-tune my idle as I was fiddling with them quite a bit while i was trying to figure out what was causing the leak; so that will be quite a fun process... since i already have a colortune I am going to use it after I have tuned it by ear to see how close the cylinders are. After that is complete then I will just have to wait to get the set of coilover conversion sleeves that 240zdan is making and install them to the car.

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thanks awoz87!

Today I finally got around to adjusting the Brake Booster pushrod in hopes that it would solve the brake pedal issue, and after soem trial and error i was finally able to get it to lock up the wheels and properly slow the car down!! It is a good feeling to take it on the streets without having to worry about emergency stops now.

 

As far as the suspension goes i noticed that there was a bit of a front end floating issue while i was on throttle and accelerating hard up a hill, but all of the shocks are completely blown so this will be removed when i get the coil-over conversion sleeves form 240zdan.

 

after all that was settled i headed to the junkyard to pick up a 240sx e-brake assembly so that I will also have a working e-brake when the car goes up in the air in the next few days to do a flush of the engine and radiator.

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dropped by the local junkyard and was able to pick up a clean 280zx dizzy with the e12-80 module for $30! Then I test fitted an FC hatch seal on the 280zx and it seemed to fit awesomely, then found a Volvo 740 wagon and took the door seals.

 

Pictures up shorty to show the fit on the doors and hatch.

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door weather stripping off of the Volvo 740 wagon

 

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-with some silicone I should be able to patch up the corner to perfection. And the doors close with just a hair more force needed than when I didnt have them.

 

hatch seal from a 2nd gen Rx7

 

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-hair more pressure needed, but most of the time it closes fine on its own.

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got the new dizzy in and the tach finally works properly, idles better as well.

 

Here are some sounds of the car, and finally one that doesn't overload the speaker.

 

 

 

Tomorrow, if i have time, I am going to remove the muffler and see if there is a difference in tone. If there is, then I am going to swap the offset muffler for a straight through. I have been listening to this sound for the last couple weeks, and kinda want a clearer tone all the way through... not as poppy. But if that is not possible, then oh well nbd.

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