Wiring questions/opinions

[jeromio]

I'm beginning to think I subconsciously don't want to finish this car.

 

I've been working on wiring the engine. That led me to get a fuse panel from a junkyard (Maxima unit with about 20 fuses and 4 relays). This is now leading me to rewiring the entire freaking car.

 

So, since this is such a hodge, I am looking for some best practices. One diagram I have, shows the ignition switch running to a relay before it goes to the solenoid. This fuse panel has 2 multi pole relays and 2 singles. I am using one single for the fuel pump, I figured I could get away with using one of the multi-pole ones for the blinkers. I guess those 2 multipole relays were for locks or windows or something.

 

Oh yeah, I am also following in Owen's steps with a Maxima blinker/lights/wipers switch set.

 

I already have a relay for the interior fan (although it's not one of these nice integrated ones like in the fuse panel ).

 

For headlights, I am going to need 2 relays, one for high, one for low. So, if I use one relay for the ignition switch that leaves me one short. Or I'll have to add extra relays here and there.

 

Do I have to run separate wires for each headlight? I'm hoping to use heavy guage wire, one for high, one for low and split it off at each light. I'm also running power for the lights from ignition/accessory ON instead of always on - no more dead battery. I'm running new lines for the front lights/blinkers, etc, but keeping the existing stuff for the rear.

 

I've got a list of 6 things that are Ign/acc on and 5 things that are always on. So I'm running a 30amp fused lead form battery to switch, or relay if I go that route, and back to one lead on the fuse panel that has 6 circuits. I'm pigtailing the hot ends of rest of the circuits together and then directly to another 30amp fused wire to the battery. I would've prefered a 50amp, but I could only find fuse holders rated at 30.

 

Anyway, it does seem odd to have all these separate wires and then I'm just bundling them back together. That's a consequence of not knowing what I'm doing. I'm reasonably confident that it won't end up being worse than the crappy original Datsun wiring.

 

I do not want to go back to the salvage yard. I will end up getting something else to tack onto this car that will even further delay me.

 

Here's my list:

 

ignition on (relay?):

------------

head lights

blinkers (relay)

PCM1

guages

 

accessory:

-------------

radio

Heater fan

A/C clutch

defroster

 

always on:

-------------

fuel pump

brake lamp

PCM2

dome light

Horn

 

start circuit:

-------------

starter (relay?)

 

The other 8 circuits I'll just tie off for now. I'm contemplating a swing out mount arrangement for the fuse panel on the passenger side. There'll be extra wire length to allow it to swing down:

Should make future wiring tasks easier.

 

If anyone can offer up any suggestions, comments, opinions (maybe drive to my house and do all this for me?) - very much appreciated. Me not good with wires.

[fl327]

whats wrong with your wiring?

i would just fix whats broken, and not break anything that works good if you worried about finishing it up and driving it.

[BAlford]

When I bought my car, a 1082, it had been on shown in "Thunder on Wheels" for several years. They had changed the sound system several times, removed the dash, heat/air system and most of the normal electrical components from the car. I had to completely re-wire the car. I bought a complete wiring harnes from a 1083 and all of the components from someone on the internet, removed ALL of the old wiring and installed the "new" wiring. Every thing "plugged and played" except the voice modual. A hard job even with a complete factory wiring manual.

 

http://www.waskomtexas.com/zcar

[Tim240z]

Jeremy,

Get a catalogue from Waytek Wire (Waytekwire.com). They will have everything you could possibly need, for very good prices. They ship very quickly too.

If you are running a nice thick gauge wire, then one is ok for the headlights (2 if you include the high beams). If you want higher amperage protection from the battery, maybe consider a circuit breaker. you can get them in manual reset, or automatic reset, and they are designed for higher loads than fuses, and you'll have a bigger choice of amp loads.

I am running 12 relays in my LT1 Conversion 240Z.

Tim

[jeromio]

I have a waytek catalog - got it last year when that link was floating around. Lots of great stuffs in there, and I had planned on ordering a bunch of those nice Packard style connectors and other compenentry. Except that the minimum order on most everything was way too high. Had to order like 10 of each thing. I'm using some cheesy non water resistant radio shack connectors.

 

Len, I did have some wiring issues before - the headlight circuit was highly flakey, as was the blinker circuit. The fuse panel had been abused over its 30 years of life also. But yeah, I am a fool for messing with this right now. It's just another example of the "While-I'm-at-it" syndrome that I suffer from.

[Tim240z]

Jeremy,

AFAIK, minimum orders only apply to the small stuff like spade terminals etc. I have ordered individual stuff from them several times though their website. Although, I bought most of my connectors (male and female spade type) from Home Depot which are decent quality anyway.

Tim

[Guest Anonymous]

hey waytek is great, i ordered a lot of stuff from them for my wiring project.

you can change the url to wire2, wire3 ect up to 5. The minimum order is kind of a hassle but when you look at the number of connectors or something that you will need to do the whole car it ends up working out. I am finding this out more and more, also you have to think that you will screw up 2 or 3 times and so a few extra is a good idea.