ECU led light and auto ecu in stick car

[IdahoKidd]

I am working with a collection of many parts converting my 77 280 into a turbo car with 83 engine and wiring.

 

First question: I have two ecu's, one from an 82 zxt with auto and one from an 83 zxt with auto. (checked numbers on Jim Wolf page) Are there issues with either of these in a stick shift car? IE, do I NEED to get the ecu from a manual car?

 

Second: neither of these have a green led light on them anywhere that I can find. Am I looking in the wrong place or do they not have them, or?

 

Thanks,

 

Leonard

[roger.svoboda]

they got red and green lights and you won't have a problem with a stick. You have to have the ecu out laying on the floor to see them.

[IdahoKidd]

Thanks. ECU's are out, can't find any lights at all. I know i am going deaf, but blind too....................

[roger.svoboda]

Maybe I'M thinking of the z31. looked at the fsm for the s130 and it seems that there is only one light. Appeared to be on the thin edge looked to be a hole. Get the fsm and check out that section. apparently that light doesn't show much. However I do know stick auto doesnt' make much difference cause I put a 5 speed in a 81zxt and it ran just fine.

[IdahoKidd]

Again, this is 83 zx turbo

 

Hey thanks, I found a green light with the key on and engine off. No light at all when running. Can someone tell me where I can find more info on the lights, what they mean, etc. Telling me fsm doesn't tell me much(I'll look, tell me where) I've read and read and don't find any mention. Also, on the bottom of the ecm is an adjustment type screw. Where can I find info on this as well.

 

The car starts and has good throttle response for about 10-15 seconds and then has really poor throttle response. I can manually open the flap in the afm and get it to match the throttle and rpms come right up, but it won't gather rpms on its own worth a damn. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Searches (most) tell me that the green light should be flashing when car is running indicating o2 sensor is working. No flashing green light, so how do I test sensor?

Edited January 17, 2010 by IdahoKidd
clarification

[lowrider]

Again, this is 83 zx turbo

 

Hey thanks, I found a green light with the key on and engine off. No light at all when running. Can someone tell me where I can find more info on the lights, what they mean, etc. Telling me fsm doesn't tell me much(I'll look, tell me where) I've read and read and don't find any mention. Also, on the bottom of the ecm is an adjustment type screw. Where can I find info on this as well.

 

The car starts and has good throttle response for about 10-15 seconds and then has really poor throttle response. I can manually open the flap in the afm and get it to match the throttle and rpms come right up, but it won't gather rpms on its own worth a damn. Any and all suggestions are appreciated. Searches (most) tell me that the green light should be flashing when car is running indicating o2 sensor is working. No flashing green light, so how do I test sensor?

You can test the sensor by sliding the rubber boot off of the conection. Then use a voltmeter to check the voltage coming off of the sensor. At idle the voltage should be around .6 volts.

[IdahoKidd]

Bought a brand new bosch O2 sensor and now (usually) get a solid green light when accelerating. Once the engine levels back off at idle, I get all kinds of light signals. Sometimes a rythmical pulse, sometimes a series of long and short pulses and none of them seem to repeat. It runs really rich with the O2 sensor hooked up and has sluggish acceleration. However, when I unhook the chts, I get good throttle response but no lights at the ecu. Hooking the chts back up, I get a momentary increase in rpms, then back to sluggish and rich. Changed out 3 chts', two used and one new with same end result. Why is the chts causing the grief? Also changed out to a different ecu. Same result.

[lowrider]

Well, i swaped the engine and fuel injection from a 83 na car. I hooked my wideband up, and the light on the ecu only comes on at around 14.5 and higher AFR's. I though my o2 sensor was bad because the ecu light wasnt flashing at idle. It turned out that when the light wasnt flashing at idle was because it was'nt fluctuating at 14.50-14.00 at idle, I was running at 13.80. Although my light was'nt flashing, the AFR's are perfect! If the NA, and Turbo ecu's think alike i dont know... I would sugest getting an wideband setup, Its worth every penny in my opinion.