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Everything posted by lowrider

  1. It's great to see some more people from East TN getting into the Z family. We have quite a few experienced Datsun guys in and around the Knoxville area. Chassis wise there are a few considerations. The 280Z chassis is touted as being stiffer than the earlier chassis'. An earlier chassis can be stiffened, but it involves more work/funds. Personally I would choose the starting point/chassis that would be in the best shape your budget could afford. The least rusted car you can find/afford the better off you are in the long run (IMO). I have my 260Z is setup for cruising/mountain driving/to be well rounded. I doubt it would be competitive in any of the local autocross events but it would certainly be fun. If you'd like i would be happy to get some of the guys together and have a sit down with you. If anything, you would have a few Datsun contacts in the area then.
  2. I still have my stock head unit, but it is simply a place holder. I have a Bluetooth module feeding directly into a 1200W 4 channel amp and a "spare tire" sub in my spare tire well. Up front I have 5x7's under the fronts of each seat and 2-1/4" tweeters/mids in the dash vent pockets. In the rear I have two 6" speakers in the factory locations in the plastic side panels. The sound distribution is pretty good and the spare tire sub provides just enough bass.
  3. Take a look at the RPM gauge in Tuner Studio when you attempt to start up. If you have a tach signal the RPM gauge should show ~400 RPM while cranking. Are the PIP and SAW signals hooked up correctly to MS? If they are swapped, the MS wont see an rpm signal.
  4. I don't have a lot of experience running E85, however from what I've researched it has the tendency to absorb moisture from air after a period of time if the gas tank is left vented to atmosphere. This can cause some issues with corrosion in various areas of the fuel system in this case it could cause rust to form in the tank. I wouldn't be terribly concerned with it as long as the E85 isn't left in the tank unused for extended periods of time. I would also look at replacing the vent and fuel filler hose to an Ethanol compatible material. As for the Walbro 255, depending on the power goals of the car you might find that it wont provide enough flow due to needing 30% more fuel with Ethanol in comparison to Gasoline. It may be something to take a look at.
  5. I apologize for a super delayed response. It's not expensive at all to plastic cast pieces like this. The molds are made from silicon and are taken from the 3d printed part. A few well placed fill and vent holes in the mold and you are good to go. If you're interested in the process there are tons of YouTube video tutorials that show how to do it from beginning to end.
  6. I appreciate the words of encouragement. I have since ditched the P79 in-favor of a solid converted P90a. I'm still planning on picking up a spare P90 to port one of these days, it's a perfect excuse to build a DIY flow bench.
  7. Update: I just realized that this will be my 4th update this year, talk about a major improvement from years past. I believe I left off with attending Zdayz this past May. In previous updates I had set a list of things that I wanted to get done on the Z. The list was: I completed the marked out items before going to Zdayz, which left numbers 4 and 5 on my list. I decided to start tearing the engine bay apart after I got back from Zdayz with the deadline of taking the car to the Cars and Coffee event that is put on three times a year here in Knoxville. I started by tearing the intake and exhaust manifolds off along with the connected components. You can see how tattered and worn the old heat wrap was on the exhaust manifold and how rusty the exhaust housing has gotten. The valve cover paint had also been wrecked by the freaking rats defecating and urinating on it. So, I pulled the intake manifold first and the turbo, down pipe, and exhaust manifold followed. I started with the down pipe and turbo first. Everything got a thorough inspection for anything out of the ordinary like wear or cracking. This was followed up by a deep cleaning and fresh 1200 degree high temp flat black grill paint. Once everything was painted, it got a liberal wrapping in DEI Titanium "header" wrap. The turbo exhaust housing also was treated to a matching "lava" turbo blanket. This picture also shows how I added the external wastegate to the factory exhaust manifold. The intake manifold got a thorough cleaning as well. The heat shield was repainted in the same flat black grill paint and the underside of the heat shield and intake manifold received a fiberglass mat/ silver reflective heat barrier to try and repel the heat from the exhaust manifold. I also added DEI heat tape to the fuel injector bodies as well as adding reflective heat blankets that wrapped around the injectors. I actually did alot of research into the fuel vapor lock situation that plagues these cars and found that the 4.0L Jeep L6 has the same problems. I found numerous posts on the Jeep forums referring people to wrap their injectors in heat tape and urging people to purchase the "injector blankets" to solve the heat soak issue. I figured for the price I would be more than willing to give it a try and see if it solves my hot start problems. I also got tired of destroying wastegate diaphragm on my eBay wastegate and went ahead and installed the Tial piece I've had on the shelf for the past few years. Last but not least I repainted my valve cover in wrinkle black and put everything back together. At this point, I enjoyed driving the car on occasion during the summer. It kinda took the back burner to driving, working on, fabricating, and installing bike carbs on my daily: I made the deadline to get the Z to Cars and Coffee. I was even able to park next to my good friend that also has an early 260Z he is in the process of building. As far the heat management is concerned on the Z, its crazy what some exhaust wrap, turbo blanket, and reflective heat wrap can do. I immediately noticed an improvement in the turbo spool response. I now had issues with the compressor hitting the surge line while using the throttle to try and regulate boost pressure. I did some re-configuring on my BOV so that under high pressure differentials between the intake manifold and before the throttle blade it will vent slightly, allowing the compressor flow to move right of the surge line. The car was driven on occasion with no real issues, even in the heat of summer it never had a problem. It is now in "winter storage" with tons of rat and mice repellent in and around the car. Bonus content: Recently I was given a hand-me-down Canon AE-1 Program from my wife when she upgraded to a digital Nikon. I am a complete Noob when it comes to doing any kind of photography let alone using 35mm film (which you cant tell how the photos turned out until developed). I have a good friend of mine that is super into analog photography so we got together and did a slight photo shoot of the Z and the Wagon. Hopefully this isn't a picture overload on the server. Those of you that see this and make it to the end: I hope you have a Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year!!
  8. @theczechone, I would be curious if this was using the stock inductive type dizzy or a points type. If I remember correctly (I don't want to spread misinformation) the 260Z dizzy had two inductive pickups, if that were the case I could see where that might cause problems. I would be interested in what you find digging deeper.
  9. My pops pulled the trigger on one of these for his 66 Fairlane with a 390. I will likely end up setting it up and ultimately tune it for him. Pending my experience and his results I will likely purchase one for my soon to be force fed, Mikuni bike carb powered L20B that is in my daily driver. The bike carb conversion has eliminated the ported vacuum so I’m currently running without vacuum advance. The CB Black Box has proven to be the most economical solution to digital timing control that I could find. As far as the timing variation is concerned, I will measure it on my dads car when it’s installed. I haven’t measured but I believe the V8 is going to be the most limited by the amount of timing advance I can dial in before arcing across to another post. I will say though, CBPerformance is currently powering high horsepower(300hp+) NA air cooled engines with this setup so it should do all that we need for a relatively mild 390 and little ole’ L20B.
  10. Leon, I got the email with the file! Thank you for sharing! I was able to put the wheel into the rear brake assembly and it appears to have more clearance then my interpretation of your measurements. They look like they will fit perfectly. In return for sending me the scan, I’ll gladly shoot you my bracket models if you’d like.
  11. I'm working in Solidworks, so a step, parasolid, or Solidworks part file will all work. The Step or SW Part file would be preferable. When ever you get the file, my email is: andrew.mielke74@gmail.com That's awesome that you have access to a 3d scanner! That would make life so much easier when trying to model pieces that have complex shapes!
  12. I was finally able to create a representation of wheel and pop it in the rear brake assembly model. It appears that it would fit just fine. I was able to roughly measure 4.75mm between the caliper and the inner barrel of the wheel at the front face, though this is assuming that I interpreted your measurements correctly. When you get the wheel scanned (and if you would like to share) I can place that in the model and be a little more accurate. I've also included a few pictures of the caliper bracket assembly to kind-of show how it was designed, it might give you some ideas for yours. I went the multi piece route because it was easier/cheaper for me to have all of the pieces laser cut and weld them up versus paying for the machine time to whittle one out of solid stock.
  13. I really didn’t do much sharing in the way of documenting the design and building process. The brackets are made of 4 - 3/8” thick 1045 steel pieces that are laser cut and welded together. An FEA on the assembly was conducted and the brackets have a huge 2.65 safety factor at loads that are highly unlikely for even a dedicated race car to see. I went a bit overboard in comparison to most other people rear brake setups (I enjoy the details). I’ll try and model up a representation of the wheel tomorrow and toss it in the assembly to check interference. The rearward offset of these rotors/calipers really help get the caliper away from the wheel (back?) face.
  14. What rear disk setup were you using that didn't fit? I recently went through a design exercise to develop a rear disk setup that would give a good rear bias to my Z32 front calipers/ Odyssey rotors, fit under 15" wheels, and retain a mechanical e-brake function in the calipers. I ended up using all late model Z31 Turbo components which gave me the mechanical parking brake, a 11.1" vented rear rotor, and a matching bias to my big front brakes. If you would be interested, you could take some measurements of the wheels I could pop it in the solid model to see if everything would fit. The front brakes that these complement:
  15. Have you thought of using the print as a plug to make a mold and plastic cast the final piece? I've done this with several projects that need to have a higher heat resistance than what what a typical PLA or Nylon would have. The reason I typically plastic cast is due to cost as well, I don't own a 3D printer and it can become expensive having someone else print in these exotic materials that have a higher heat resistance. It's more cost effective for me to have the print made cheaply in PLA and use it to make a mold to cast from. Here are a few parts I've made using the casting process: The material these are made from has a heat deflection temperature of 250 degrees F. I have seen some resins that are resistant to heat up to 400 degrees F as well. Ash Tray Cup Holder: 240Z Steering Wheel Horn Button:
  16. Update: The last post covered the most of the prep work that I had done before Zdayz this year. I finished up my brake install, as well as installing the gas tank/surge tank. Before I "slayed the dragon" I wanted to make sure I had adequate brakes and sticky rubber to match. I re-bled the brakes at my dad's shop on the lift, and talk about feel awesome. I have a ton of stopping power now and it seems like the calculations I did has biased the brakes perfectly. It really makes me wonder how I've done without thus far. The next thing on the list was to install some new sticky rubber before my trip. After a lot of research in trying to find a 200tw street tire that didn't break the budget I found that I would likely end up having to go down a size from 225 - 205. I finally settled on the Federal 595rs-r' s and tried to buy a set that would be delivered it in time for Zdayz, but I had no such luck. Apparently these bad-boys are highly sought after in the autocross crowds and as soon as they hit the shelves they are gone. I called every company in the US that sold them and everywhere was factory back ordered 3 months. I did some more research and finally settled on a set of 205-50-15 Yokohama S-drives which were delivered 2 days after I placed the order. I don't trust tire shops raising/taking the wheels off of the car so I decided to take a trip to my dad's shop to put the car on the lift, remove the wheels, and take the tires to be mounted. The only issue was I had no way to get the car and the tires to the shop without a huge logistics nightmare. So, I made use of that awesome roof rack I purchased several years back. I loaded all 4 tires across the roof rack and strapped them down tightly so there was no chance of a tire escaping during the 15min drive to dad's. I thought it looked freaking awesome but I got a ton of odd looks and stares driving down the road. Got to dad's and the got tires mounted and the wheels back on the car just a week before Zdayz. The trip to the Dragon was a blast. I woke up around 8:00am, washed the car, went over the check list, and started my trip. It takes me around 2 hours to get from my house in North Knoxville to the Overlook at the beginning of the Dragon. I made one pass through feeling out the tires and brakes (the roads were wet from a morning shower) and headed to Fontana Village to check out the Zdayz festivities. I parked the car and walked around looking at the cars entered into the car show and generally parked around the campus. Around 12:00pm I loaded up and decided that I would start making my way back home. On the way back through the sun had been out long enough to dry up the roads from the shower it had gotten in the morning. Since the roads were dry I felt a little more comfortable pushing the car on the way back, and boy was I impressed. The new tires were tons better than my past sets of Kumho ecsta ast's. On top of the tire grip, I was actually able to brake properly with more force and without having to worry about usage that would lead to brake fade. I was incredibly satisfied with the tire and brake combination. Unfortunately I didn't have anyone running with me to compare how well the combination improved my pace. I pulled over at the Overlook and inspected the brakes, which were barely hot. Sucess! I was fortunate enough to have been highlighted by a few companies that take pictures from the sides of the road on the dragon. Below are a couple that I found on their facebook/websites.
  17. I searched for one a few years ago and also a month or so ago to no avail. I built a surge tank instead. I've also seen people use Holley Hydramats in the bottom of the stock tank. talk about some pretty wild products..
  18. Update: I finally have the brakes assembled on the car. It's been IN-OP for too long. I had a laundry list of things that I wanted to get done along with the brakes before Zdayz this year. These included: 1) Finishing up the brake upgrade 2) Cleaning/ installing new fuel tank 3) Re-installing the surge tank that I made a few years back 4) Re-vamping the engine bay/ adding thermal wraps and protection to a few things 5) Getting the car to run cooler with A/C on. So far, I've completed the first 3 items on my list. I installed the new to me fuel tank and surge tank this passed weekend. I ran into some issues with the surge tank that ended with a ton of spilled gas. I had originally sealed the hole that the wires for the pump inside the surge tank with JB weld. Apparently JB weld degrades with time and exposure to gasoline, I didn't find this out until the surge tank was filled by the lift pump and the fuel poured out of the top of it. I dropped the surge tank and pulled one hose off to drain a portion of the fuel out before using gas tank repair epoxy on the wire opening. I wasn't able to get to it that evening (due to a dinner date with the wife) so for an extra precaution, I placed vice grips on the tank supply line to keep the fuel from siphoning out of the tank and into the surge tank. Apparently I didn't clamp it tight enough, I returned from dinner to find a river of 93 octane gas running out of the car port and into the drive way. DOH. I re positioned the vice grips and it quit leaking, thankfully. I put some epoxy on the wire opening the next morning and all was well again. I got the chance to take the car down the road briefly and found out that I need to clearance the front calipers a bit.They were making a terrible racket rubbing against the front wheels. I need to fab up ebrake brackets for the rear calipers to completely finish the conversion. I also need to re-bleed the brakes the peddle is very mushy. The rear brake disks are actually larger than the original front rotors... One of the biggest reasons that I've been forced to re-vamp the engine bay is due to rats. The car has been parked in my enclosed car port for a good while now and I live next to a cow field. Apparently the field rats decided that the engine bay of my car would serve as a suitable hangout. Fortunately, they had mostly just hung out on top of the intake and valve cover and hadn't built a nest. They at some point during their hangout session decided to chew through one of the injector wires and the wires to my boost control solenoid. The war to kill/keep them at bay has been trying to say the least. I can't catch the little buggers in traps and they apparently wont die of poisoning (They have eaten almost 3 lbs of poison). I'm trying a bunch of repellents and such now with pretty good results thus far I am now looking into putting a garage door up to permanently solve the problem, but I freaking hate these suckers. I've started on number 4 on the list as well. I've added some of the DEI gold heat reflective wrapping to the cold intercooler piping to try and reduce the amount of heat soak, as well as coating the heat shield for the brake master. I've already got a new turbo blanket and some DEI Titanium exhaust wrap to re-wrap the exhaust manifold and down pipe with. I'm also planning on using a reflective heat barrier on the heat shield that goes under the intake manifold as well. I'm tired of having heat issues in the humid 100+F southern summers.
  19. Interesting concept on the intake manifold! I'm curious about the flow characteristics with the inlet coming into the bottom center of the plenum. I could see the flow becoming pretty well mixed up after it hits the top of the plenum. If you'd like to send me the model, I could put it in Solidworks' flow simulation to see what it'll do.
  20. In previous manifolds that I have done I sand blast to remove the final layer of grim to get a consistent finish, then I powder coat them. Although if you don't have access to a sand blaster seattlejester's suggestion with the solvents and fire sounds like it would be the way to go. The heat shield, I've high temp spray painted which holds up well for a few years. As far as the gold foil tape, I would be hesitant placing it on something that close to a possible 1500+F heat source. Depending on the manufacture, gold foil tape isn't rated to handle those types of temperatures. I've actually been doing a bit of research on better insulating the intake manifold via beefing up the heat shield design, and I'm going to be placing a sheet of THIS on both the top and bottom of the stock heat shield when I tear it down in the next month or two. I've previously been running just the factory heat shield that is painted and I'm tired of the numerous heat soaking and vapor locking issues that I have been living with during the summer in the south. So, this year I'm taking a few measures to control under hood heat with the intake manifold heat shield being one of the areas of focus. For porting for the TB, Ive always used carbide burr bits (like below) in an air grinder to smooth the transition between the throttle body diameter and the opening of the manifold. I was able to dig up a picture of my current intake manifold in the process of being shaved and ported that shows the start of smoothing the inlet for a Weber TB. In the end, I removed the casting bumps that protrude down from the top of the opening as well. I hope this gives you some ideas.
  21. I thought I included a picture or two of the rear mounting point with the pivot. The pivot is made of 1/4" CRS that was laser cut at the same place I did my CoOp. I attached the mounts to the same location that the factory tow hooks attached to on the front frame rails. The front cables were made to "pre-load" the front of the splitter and slightly deflect the air dam to get a decent seal along the front edge. The picture above just has the front sat on boxes for mock up, hence the gaps.
  22. I have been lurking alot more on the forums recently, and I've started to feel guilty about the lack of contribution on my end in the past several years. Life has gotten in the way, but my Z has slowly still been progressing. Since my last update, alot has happened both with me and the car. I graduated college in 2014 with a BS in mechanical engineering and started work as a manufacturing engineer. I got married in 2014 as well and we bought a house in 2015. Enough about me, the car has also progressed quite a bit in the passed couple of years, unfortunately I haven't documented everything well picture wise. The last update I had mentioned replacing the stock radiator with an aluminum cross flow radiator. I had to make all kinds of modifications to the generic eBay radiator to get it to fit the car. I cut off both the inlet and outlet of the radiator and had to weld a 90 degree section of tubing on both of them to keep from hitting my intercooler piping and the alternator. I also had to fabricate some brackets to hold it in the car. I ditched the twin 12" eBay fans in favor for a Derale 16217 2 speed 17" fan with the new radiator. You can kind-of see the radiator and fan in the engine bay picture below: I finally bit the bullet and did a CV-axle swap using 280zx Turbo cv axles. I had a friend of mine that was parting a zx turbo out and in exchange for helping him pull the motor, trans, and a few other various parts I got the differential, axles, and stub axle flanges. I had done some reading and read that the 280zx turbo stub axle spline was the same as the 240Z which would have made the axles a bolt in affair. However, one of the joys of owning a 260z is not knowing what component parts you have. I made the assumption that my 260, being an early 74' with 240z struts, would have the smaller 25 spline stub axles but I was wrong. This meant that the zxt stub axle flanges would not bolt up so I had to go back to the drawing board. I did some more research and a fair bit of measuring and decided to make an adapter that would bolt to the existing stub flange and convert to the zxt cv bolt pattern. A couple of hunks of CRS, some time in the lathe and the mill, and I had myself a set of cv axle adapters. The install was straight forward, and only required the modification of the sheet metal grease shield of the outer cv joint. The difference that the cv-axles made in the smoothness of power delivery is amazing. The car used to shake and rattle on acceleration when it had the half shafts installed, all of that went away after the cv-axles were installed. After the CV swap, things started slowing down as far as upgrades are concerned. I spent the majority of the time driving and enjoying the car. I had identified a few areas that I wanted to focus on but I had recently bought a house, so the attention kinda was shifted towards that. I had wanted to construct a support for my flexible xenon front air dam for a few years, so I went ahead and build a bar to reinforce the lower lip of the air dam. The while I'm at it bug hit during the project and I went ahead and constructed a front splitter for the car as well. I constructed the splitter from a scrap bit of .25" alumalite my uncle had brought into the shop from his job as an industrial sign maker. I designed the splitter to mount to the tow hook on the front frame rails of the car. The mount would allow the splitter to pivot in the case of it contacting the ground leaving steep driveways or contacting curbs when pulling to close into parking spots. Because it was pivoted and I wanted to allow movement upwards in case of contact, that meant I couldn't use the usual support rods that are seen everywhere. I chose to secure the front of the splitter with cable so that it could have to freedom of movement upwards but as soon as the high pressure air in front of the air dam would try and force it down, the cables would be in tension and not allow downward movement. I looped the support cables through the bumper mounts and attached both ends to u-shaped mounts on the leading edge of the splitter via ball detent pins for quick removal. Overall, the addition of the car makes the front feel more stable at higher speeds. I have yet to use my monomer to determine the pressure difference on the front of the air dam before and after the splitter addition, but I can say that it cost me 2 MPG with what I assume is drag created by the addition area for the high pressure region to act on. I have taken the car to a few different meets and shows below are a few pictures from those: Recently, I have been planning/building my brake upgrade. I currently have 4 piston Toyota front calipers with the stock drums in the rear. I've kind of taken it as a design exercise to fit a set of front and rear disk brakes to the car that have a few criteria: 1) The calipers and rotors are easily sourced at local auto parts stores. 2) Both front and rear brakes are vented to reduce thermal overload and cause brake fade. 3) Must fit under my 15" wheels. 4) Must retain ebrake function. I started with the idea of using Z32 front calipers paired with Honda Odyssey front rotors. I then did a little research and some calculation which let me to the idea of using late Z31 rear calipers and rotors for a closely matched bias. I then had to come up with some way to mount the calipers and rotors to the struts/spindles. I modeled both the front and rear struts and designed mounts for both the Z32 front calipers and the Z31 rear. This pretty much brings me up to date on the car. It is currently sitting in my car port awaiting for me to install the front and rear brakes. I had both the front and rear caliper mounts made, I purchased my rotors and calipers for the front and the rear as well as drilling the rotors to accept the respective 4-lug patterns. I have tested fitted the front brakes using a spare strut and luckily everything fits and clears the wheels, just barely.
  23. I've been running a bone stock N42 bottom end coupled with a P90 and Holset HX35 at 18PSI for the last 4 years without any problems. Make sure you check the ring gaps / gap them on the large side to accommodate the extra thermal expansion of having a turbo feeding it.
  24. Fail-Bucket strikes again. I can't see any of those pictures.
  25. I have been running a NA-T conversion in my 260Z for the last 7 years. It has gone through several iterations and also several bottom ends (due to me being a noob at tuning). I started out with a stock 83 zx motor / efi and added a stock T3, locked the dizzy, and added a potentiometer inline with the head temp sensor to add some more fuel. It was crude but it worked for a while. I am currently making around the 350ish HP range with a Holset HX35 at 18PSI strapped to the side of a bone stock N42 Bottom end topped with a P90 head and megasquirt 2 orchestrating everything. This bottom end has lived for about 4 years unopened with nothing but the oil changed at regular intervals. To back what everyone else has said, these motors are tough. By far the biggest weakness in my experience are the pistons. If you plan on using the stock pistons, don't rev past 6500 or else it will pull the ringlands. Also, I've lost a couple of ringlands on the pistons due to the ring gap being too tight with the extra heat from the extra compression the turbo adds. If you do crack the motor open you may want to gap your rings a little wide than stock. Granted that failure happened at higher boost pressures and horsepower than you may be wanting to achieve. As turbogrill said, a wideband is a must for any turbo venture.
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