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lowrider last won the day on April 28 2018

lowrider had the most liked content!

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About lowrider

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  • Birthday 08/02/1990

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  • Gender
  • Location
    Knoxville, TN
  • Interests
    Working on cars, Spirited driving, Guns, and such.

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  1. It's great to see some more people from East TN getting into the Z family. We have quite a few experienced Datsun guys in and around the Knoxville area. Chassis wise there are a few considerations. The 280Z chassis is touted as being stiffer than the earlier chassis'. An earlier chassis can be stiffened, but it involves more work/funds. Personally I would choose the starting point/chassis that would be in the best shape your budget could afford. The least rusted car you can find/afford the better off you are in the long run (IMO). I have my 260Z is setup for cruising/mountain driving/to be well rounded. I doubt it would be competitive in any of the local autocross events but it would certainly be fun. If you'd like i would be happy to get some of the guys together and have a sit down with you. If anything, you would have a few Datsun contacts in the area then.
  2. I still have my stock head unit, but it is simply a place holder. I have a Bluetooth module feeding directly into a 1200W 4 channel amp and a "spare tire" sub in my spare tire well. Up front I have 5x7's under the fronts of each seat and 2-1/4" tweeters/mids in the dash vent pockets. In the rear I have two 6" speakers in the factory locations in the plastic side panels. The sound distribution is pretty good and the spare tire sub provides just enough bass.
  3. Take a look at the RPM gauge in Tuner Studio when you attempt to start up. If you have a tach signal the RPM gauge should show ~400 RPM while cranking. Are the PIP and SAW signals hooked up correctly to MS? If they are swapped, the MS wont see an rpm signal.
  4. I don't have a lot of experience running E85, however from what I've researched it has the tendency to absorb moisture from air after a period of time if the gas tank is left vented to atmosphere. This can cause some issues with corrosion in various areas of the fuel system in this case it could cause rust to form in the tank. I wouldn't be terribly concerned with it as long as the E85 isn't left in the tank unused for extended periods of time. I would also look at replacing the vent and fuel filler hose to an Ethanol compatible material. As for the Walbro 255, depending on the power goals of the car you might find that it wont provide enough flow due to needing 30% more fuel with Ethanol in comparison to Gasoline. It may be something to take a look at.
  5. I apologize for a super delayed response. It's not expensive at all to plastic cast pieces like this. The molds are made from silicon and are taken from the 3d printed part. A few well placed fill and vent holes in the mold and you are good to go. If you're interested in the process there are tons of YouTube video tutorials that show how to do it from beginning to end.
  6. I appreciate the words of encouragement. I have since ditched the P79 in-favor of a solid converted P90a. I'm still planning on picking up a spare P90 to port one of these days, it's a perfect excuse to build a DIY flow bench.
  7. Update: I just realized that this will be my 4th update this year, talk about a major improvement from years past. I believe I left off with attending Zdayz this past May. In previous updates I had set a list of things that I wanted to get done on the Z. The list was: I completed the marked out items before going to Zdayz, which left numbers 4 and 5 on my list. I decided to start tearing the engine bay apart after I got back from Zdayz with the deadline of taking the car to the Cars and Coffee event that is put on three times a year here in Knoxville. I started by tearing the intake and exhaust manifolds off along with the connected components. You can see how tattered and worn the old heat wrap was on the exhaust manifold and how rusty the exhaust housing has gotten. The valve cover paint had also been wrecked by the freaking rats defecating and urinating on it. So, I pulled the intake manifold first and the turbo, down pipe, and exhaust manifold followed. I started with the down pipe and turbo first. Everything got a thorough inspection for anything out of the ordinary like wear or cracking. This was followed up by a deep cleaning and fresh 1200 degree high temp flat black grill paint. Once everything was painted, it got a liberal wrapping in DEI Titanium "header" wrap. The turbo exhaust housing also was treated to a matching "lava" turbo blanket. This picture also shows how I added the external wastegate to the factory exhaust manifold. The intake manifold got a thorough cleaning as well. The heat shield was repainted in the same flat black grill paint and the underside of the heat shield and intake manifold received a fiberglass mat/ silver reflective heat barrier to try and repel the heat from the exhaust manifold. I also added DEI heat tape to the fuel injector bodies as well as adding reflective heat blankets that wrapped around the injectors. I actually did alot of research into the fuel vapor lock situation that plagues these cars and found that the 4.0L Jeep L6 has the same problems. I found numerous posts on the Jeep forums referring people to wrap their injectors in heat tape and urging people to purchase the "injector blankets" to solve the heat soak issue. I figured for the price I would be more than willing to give it a try and see if it solves my hot start problems. I also got tired of destroying wastegate diaphragm on my eBay wastegate and went ahead and installed the Tial piece I've had on the shelf for the past few years. Last but not least I repainted my valve cover in wrinkle black and put everything back together. At this point, I enjoyed driving the car on occasion during the summer. It kinda took the back burner to driving, working on, fabricating, and installing bike carbs on my daily: I made the deadline to get the Z to Cars and Coffee. I was even able to park next to my good friend that also has an early 260Z he is in the process of building. As far the heat management is concerned on the Z, its crazy what some exhaust wrap, turbo blanket, and reflective heat wrap can do. I immediately noticed an improvement in the turbo spool response. I now had issues with the compressor hitting the surge line while using the throttle to try and regulate boost pressure. I did some re-configuring on my BOV so that under high pressure differentials between the intake manifold and before the throttle blade it will vent slightly, allowing the compressor flow to move right of the surge line. The car was driven on occasion with no real issues, even in the heat of summer it never had a problem. It is now in "winter storage" with tons of rat and mice repellent in and around the car. Bonus content: Recently I was given a hand-me-down Canon AE-1 Program from my wife when she upgraded to a digital Nikon. I am a complete Noob when it comes to doing any kind of photography let alone using 35mm film (which you cant tell how the photos turned out until developed). I have a good friend of mine that is super into analog photography so we got together and did a slight photo shoot of the Z and the Wagon. Hopefully this isn't a picture overload on the server. Those of you that see this and make it to the end: I hope you have a Merry Christmas and have a Happy New Year!!
  8. @theczechone, I would be curious if this was using the stock inductive type dizzy or a points type. If I remember correctly (I don't want to spread misinformation) the 260Z dizzy had two inductive pickups, if that were the case I could see where that might cause problems. I would be interested in what you find digging deeper.
  9. My pops pulled the trigger on one of these for his 66 Fairlane with a 390. I will likely end up setting it up and ultimately tune it for him. Pending my experience and his results I will likely purchase one for my soon to be force fed, Mikuni bike carb powered L20B that is in my daily driver. The bike carb conversion has eliminated the ported vacuum so I’m currently running without vacuum advance. The CB Black Box has proven to be the most economical solution to digital timing control that I could find. As far as the timing variation is concerned, I will measure it on my dads car when it’s installed. I haven’t measured but I believe the V8 is going to be the most limited by the amount of timing advance I can dial in before arcing across to another post. I will say though, CBPerformance is currently powering high horsepower(300hp+) NA air cooled engines with this setup so it should do all that we need for a relatively mild 390 and little ole’ L20B.
  10. Leon, I got the email with the file! Thank you for sharing! I was able to put the wheel into the rear brake assembly and it appears to have more clearance then my interpretation of your measurements. They look like they will fit perfectly. In return for sending me the scan, I’ll gladly shoot you my bracket models if you’d like.
  11. I'm working in Solidworks, so a step, parasolid, or Solidworks part file will all work. The Step or SW Part file would be preferable. When ever you get the file, my email is: andrew.mielke74@gmail.com That's awesome that you have access to a 3d scanner! That would make life so much easier when trying to model pieces that have complex shapes!
  12. I was finally able to create a representation of wheel and pop it in the rear brake assembly model. It appears that it would fit just fine. I was able to roughly measure 4.75mm between the caliper and the inner barrel of the wheel at the front face, though this is assuming that I interpreted your measurements correctly. When you get the wheel scanned (and if you would like to share) I can place that in the model and be a little more accurate. I've also included a few pictures of the caliper bracket assembly to kind-of show how it was designed, it might give you some ideas for yours. I went the multi piece route because it was easier/cheaper for me to have all of the pieces laser cut and weld them up versus paying for the machine time to whittle one out of solid stock.
  13. I really didn’t do much sharing in the way of documenting the design and building process. The brackets are made of 4 - 3/8” thick 1045 steel pieces that are laser cut and welded together. An FEA on the assembly was conducted and the brackets have a huge 2.65 safety factor at loads that are highly unlikely for even a dedicated race car to see. I went a bit overboard in comparison to most other people rear brake setups (I enjoy the details). I’ll try and model up a representation of the wheel tomorrow and toss it in the assembly to check interference. The rearward offset of these rotors/calipers really help get the caliper away from the wheel (back?) face.
  14. What rear disk setup were you using that didn't fit? I recently went through a design exercise to develop a rear disk setup that would give a good rear bias to my Z32 front calipers/ Odyssey rotors, fit under 15" wheels, and retain a mechanical e-brake function in the calipers. I ended up using all late model Z31 Turbo components which gave me the mechanical parking brake, a 11.1" vented rear rotor, and a matching bias to my big front brakes. If you would be interested, you could take some measurements of the wheels I could pop it in the solid model to see if everything would fit. The front brakes that these complement:
  15. Have you thought of using the print as a plug to make a mold and plastic cast the final piece? I've done this with several projects that need to have a higher heat resistance than what what a typical PLA or Nylon would have. The reason I typically plastic cast is due to cost as well, I don't own a 3D printer and it can become expensive having someone else print in these exotic materials that have a higher heat resistance. It's more cost effective for me to have the print made cheaply in PLA and use it to make a mold to cast from. Here are a few parts I've made using the casting process: The material these are made from has a heat deflection temperature of 250 degrees F. I have seen some resins that are resistant to heat up to 400 degrees F as well. Ash Tray Cup Holder: 240Z Steering Wheel Horn Button:
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