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lowrider last won the day on April 28 2018

lowrider had the most liked content!

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About lowrider

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  • Birthday 08/02/1990

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  • Location
    Knoxville, TN
  • Interests
    Working on cars, Spirited driving, Guns, and such.

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  1. You are correct in your assumption that one leg is the signal ground and the other two pins are the high and low signals. There should be continuity across the common pin to the low pin at its switching temp as well as the high at its switching temperature. If you aren't getting continuity across any of the pins it might be fair to say the sensor is bad.
  2. Check out: https://milkfab-engineering.com/shop/ols/products/240z260z280z-cvaxlekit
  3. If you have the dimensions from the original it would be fairly easy to look up a comparable o-ring from some where like McMaster Carr.
  4. Why not run an electric vacuum pump instead of tying all of the runners together? I did a Mikuni bike carb swap on my 610 station wagon and ran this vacuum pump for the master cylinder and other vacuum driven accessories. I pulled mine from a Volvo in the local pull-a-part and paid next to nothing for it. I have it connected to switched power via a rely and inline fuse with an inline vacuum switch to activate the relay. Whenever the vacuum level drops below the switch threshold it will run for a few seconds then shut off. It's been working great for several years now!
  5. The mounting bold diameter for the rotors is correct at 103mm. The rotors don't slip over the wheel mounting studs like in newer model cars they bolt to the rear of the hub. The mounting bolt pattern to attach the rotor to the back of the hub is 4x103. Source - I produce brake kits for the S30 and have personally measured the rotor mounting bolt diameter.
  6. I made a radio block off a while back that houses 3 52mm gauges. Here are the dimensions. I'm not sure what filament you plan on using, but I don't suggest PLA.
  7. It's great to see some more people from East TN getting into the Z family. We have quite a few experienced Datsun guys in and around the Knoxville area. Chassis wise there are a few considerations. The 280Z chassis is touted as being stiffer than the earlier chassis'. An earlier chassis can be stiffened, but it involves more work/funds. Personally I would choose the starting point/chassis that would be in the best shape your budget could afford. The least rusted car you can find/afford the better off you are in the long run (IMO). I have my 260Z is setup for c
  8. I still have my stock head unit, but it is simply a place holder. I have a Bluetooth module feeding directly into a 1200W 4 channel amp and a "spare tire" sub in my spare tire well. Up front I have 5x7's under the fronts of each seat and 2-1/4" tweeters/mids in the dash vent pockets. In the rear I have two 6" speakers in the factory locations in the plastic side panels. The sound distribution is pretty good and the spare tire sub provides just enough bass.
  9. Take a look at the RPM gauge in Tuner Studio when you attempt to start up. If you have a tach signal the RPM gauge should show ~400 RPM while cranking. Are the PIP and SAW signals hooked up correctly to MS? If they are swapped, the MS wont see an rpm signal.
  10. I don't have a lot of experience running E85, however from what I've researched it has the tendency to absorb moisture from air after a period of time if the gas tank is left vented to atmosphere. This can cause some issues with corrosion in various areas of the fuel system in this case it could cause rust to form in the tank. I wouldn't be terribly concerned with it as long as the E85 isn't left in the tank unused for extended periods of time. I would also look at replacing the vent and fuel filler hose to an Ethanol compatible material. As for the Walbro 255, depending on the pow
  11. I apologize for a super delayed response. It's not expensive at all to plastic cast pieces like this. The molds are made from silicon and are taken from the 3d printed part. A few well placed fill and vent holes in the mold and you are good to go. If you're interested in the process there are tons of YouTube video tutorials that show how to do it from beginning to end.
  12. I appreciate the words of encouragement. I have since ditched the P79 in-favor of a solid converted P90a. I'm still planning on picking up a spare P90 to port one of these days, it's a perfect excuse to build a DIY flow bench.
  13. Update: I just realized that this will be my 4th update this year, talk about a major improvement from years past. I believe I left off with attending Zdayz this past May. In previous updates I had set a list of things that I wanted to get done on the Z. The list was: I completed the marked out items before going to Zdayz, which left numbers 4 and 5 on my list. I decided to start tearing the engine bay apart after I got back from Zdayz with the deadline of taking the car to the Cars and Coffee event that is put on three times a year here in Knoxville. I started by tear
  14. @theczechone, I would be curious if this was using the stock inductive type dizzy or a points type. If I remember correctly (I don't want to spread misinformation) the 260Z dizzy had two inductive pickups, if that were the case I could see where that might cause problems. I would be interested in what you find digging deeper.
  15. My pops pulled the trigger on one of these for his 66 Fairlane with a 390. I will likely end up setting it up and ultimately tune it for him. Pending my experience and his results I will likely purchase one for my soon to be force fed, Mikuni bike carb powered L20B that is in my daily driver. The bike carb conversion has eliminated the ported vacuum so I’m currently running without vacuum advance. The CB Black Box has proven to be the most economical solution to digital timing control that I could find. As far as the timing variation is concerned, I will measure it on my dads car when it
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