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dry ice and tar insulation!


Guest Anonymous

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Guest Anonymous

It works awesome! I just put a layer of dry ice across the floorpan and let it sit and cool for a few minutes. Whacked floorpan with a dead blow hammer from underneath and was mad that it wasn't breaking into pieces. I could hear it cracking, so I scraped away and off it came! Rock hard, not sticky, no residue left behind, and it came off in flakes as big as my hand! I could even lift it off with my bare hands in big pieces once I got it started!

It took me about 2 hours to do both footwells and 1/2 of the transmission tunnel on the passenger side(Ran out of ice damnit!) compared to about an hour to do JUST the tiny area under the driver's seat yesterday.

Definately the way to go! I can easily de-tar the rest of the body in another hour or two. Scraping is for the birds smile.gif

 

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Morgan morgan@z31.com

http://carfiche.com

http://z31.com

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Morgan, that's pretty cool wink.gif. Does it remove the stuff on the underside of the car too? That's what I thought you were referring to at first.

 

I hate that stuff they put on the inside of the floors, etc. It wasn't put down real well in alot of Z's I've seen and a little bit of water gets under it and Whammo! You've got rust BIG time. That's how my floors went.

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Guest Anonymous

No, the undercoating was left undamaged.

I have just the transmission tunnel and hatch area left to go now smile.gif

I'm gonna try liquid nitrogen this time, just point the hose at it and let it spatter on and see how that works. With some luck it'll be so cold it'll just fall off instead of me having to pick the pieces up smile.gif

 

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Morgan morgan@z31.com

http://carfiche.com

http://z31.com

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Very clever! where does one get ahold of liquid nitrogen - or for that matter, just dry ice????

 

I just completed my car's de-tarring. Took about a week with a chisel and hammer to do the whole floor and hatch area, and there's still a "residue" left. Lots of cursing and dozens of cuts on my hands. Pete's right - there is rust hiding underneath that tar, even if the top surface looks dry and pristine. The worst places are where the sheet metal panels join, and are covered by rubbery white glue. Rust wants to form at those joints. Of course, the metal is unpainted in those areas!

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