Mike kZ Posted December 6, 2000 Share Posted December 6, 2000 Where ar you guys getting your POR-15? Can you buy it at a local store, or do you have to mail order it? Where is the best price? ------------------ http://members.tripod.com/~SnowSurfer/mikekz1.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted December 6, 2000 Share Posted December 6, 2000 I mail ordered mine, but I've heard that marine supply stores carry it. Stuff ain't cheap though. And be advised the shelf life after openning/puncturing the can is 6 months. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Drax240z Posted December 6, 2000 Share Posted December 6, 2000 I actually found some locally. What I did was phone New Jersey at the number on POR-15's site, and asked them about distributors, they were able to tell me where the closest one is. One thing I noticed about POR-15, I always seem to use less than I had thought I would. The stuff is really thin and goes a long way, so pour sparingly. ------------------ "Gimme Fuel, Gimme Fire, Gimme that which I desire" -Metallica Drax240z 1972 240z - L28TURBO transplant on the way! http://members.xoom.com/r_lewis/datsun.html http://members.home.net/drax77/newpage.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 6, 2000 Share Posted December 6, 2000 www.por15.com I have used the stuff on floorboards, interior and exterior, engine parts, splash pans, etc. Everything that I have gotten from them is excellent! Keep in mind it is not for highly cosmetic areas and their rust coatings are UV sensitive. It can be topcoated using the right techniques. I also use their POR Patch and POR Epoxy and love the stuff. It DOES spread thin and goes a long way! Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted December 6, 2000 Share Posted December 6, 2000 Hirsch Automotive claims their moisture cured urethane (which is the same type of paint as POR-15) is UV resistant. See: http://hirschauto.com/miracle.htm Here's a quote from that page: quote: 4. MIRACLE PAINT IN CLEAR, SILVER OR BLACK IS ONE OF THE BEST COATINGS YOU CAN USE. IT HAS LITERALLY HUNDREDS OF USES, SUCH AS AUTOMOBILES, TRAINS, INDUSTRIAL, BOATS, FARM & GARDEN EQUIPMENT, METAL FENCE POSTS, RAILINGS, METAL DOORS AND MANY MORE THINGS YOU MAY THINK OF. UNLIKE POR-15 A COMPETITIVE PRODUCT WHICH IS AFFECTED BY THE ULTRA-VIOLET RAYS OF THE SUN, ACCORDING TO THEIR OWN ADVERTISING. OUR MIRACLE PAINT IS RESISTANT TO ULTRA VIOLET RAYS, WITH SILVER BEING THE MOST RESISTANT, THEN BLACK AND FINALLY CLEAR. WHILE ULTRA VIOLET RAYS WILL NOT AFFECT THE PERFORMANCE OF MIRACLE PAINT, IT WILL CAUSE THE COLOR TO FADE. SO IT IS A MUST THAT THE MIRACLE PAINT BE TOPCOATED WHEN USED OUTDOORS. THIS SAME FORMULATION IS NOW BEING USED TO RE-PAINT RUSTING AND CORRODING BRIDGES AND OTHER EXPOSED METAL STRUCTURES. IT HAS EXTREMELY HIGH CHARACTERISTICS PERMITTING IT TO BE USED FOR EXTERIOR AS WELL AS INTERIOR USES. IT CAN ALSO BE USED AS A PRIMER OR SEALER. YOU CAN PAINT ENAMEL, LACQUER, OR EVEN URETHANE OVER IT WITHOUT AFFECTING THE MIRACLE PAINT, BUT DO NOT USE WATER BASED PAINTS OVER IT. IF YOU DO INTEND TO RE-COAT IT, THE MIRACLE PAINT SHOULD BE SANDED JUST ENOUGH TO REMOVE SOME OF THE GLOSS. THIS WILL GIVE BETTER ADHESION TO THE TOP COAT. I've used it in black and silver and it works as they say it does. Wished I'd done the underside of the car with it! BTW, Hirsch recommends not removing the lid (if you do and any paint is left in the lip crevice (stop that! ) the lid will be permanently adhered to the can) but punching two holes, at the edge of the lid (diametrically opposed) and pouring out of the hole. Then clean the lid and use duct tape to seal the holes (to keep moisture out) immediately. HTH, ------------------ Pete Paraska - 73 540Z - Marathon Z Project pparaska@home.com Pete's V8 Datsun 240Z Pages Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 6, 2000 Share Posted December 6, 2000 Pete/all, To the best of my knowledge, POR15 states the same thing. They say that their coatings continue to protect but the color is what is not UV resistant. It is not spelled out but does read that way deeper into their site. Or it used to anyway. I specifically remember reading it. Perhaps they have found otherwise. POR15 does have some UV resistant topcoats that are pretty tough, though. It is probably all about the same. Now I have to check the Hirsch prices Craig Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 27, 2000 Share Posted December 27, 2000 Ordered 2 quarts of POR15 SEMI-Gloss black today! Should be in soon. Any idea where to get weldable primer? Trying to locate the stuff but I'm not having any luck... I know they make it, as I used it years ago, but I'm at a loss since the store has since gone out of business... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pparaska Posted December 27, 2000 Share Posted December 27, 2000 Eastwood has cold galvanizing paint that they claim is weld-through. Search http://www.eastwoodco.com for "galvanizing" and you'll get hits on the spray and brush on types. Personally, I've used this stuff, and I really doubt the usefulness of it in that application. It burns at and adjacent to the welding and what's left is areas right next to the weld in the overlapped steel where there is no paint. I feel the best thing to do is to butt weld, or overlap and use a very good sealer. I really like the firm set seam sealer "SEAM SEALER BEIGE FIRM SET CARTRIDGE Item-no 31024 Z" and the plyable 3M seam sealer. I guess the galvanized paint will help, but it won't protect ALL of the metal in the overlap. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 28, 2000 Share Posted December 28, 2000 Wait a sec... Galvanized and welding? It can't be true galvanizing if they say you can weld on it - wedling galvanized metal is supposed to release noxious gasses that are VERY bad. Am I crazy here? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavyZ Posted December 28, 2000 Share Posted December 28, 2000 wedling galvanized metal is supposed to release noxious gasses that are VERY bad. Am I crazy here?[/b] No, you're not crazy, and yes you can weld galvanized metal...BUT, it will release noxious fumes that cause "galvanize poisoning" if you get too much. Kinda like having a bad flu; knocks you out. We had guys welding the stuff all the time when I worked for a fencing company. Rule #1: always weld the stuff outside and/or with plenty of ventilation. In other words, you always want a breeze so the smoke isn't blowing into and under your welding mask. Just my .02 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Anonymous Posted December 28, 2000 Share Posted December 28, 2000 I've welded galvanized pieces before, one shop used all galvanized metal because of its usage in outdoor environments. It smokes like crazy, makes you nauseous if you do it very long, and as mentioned a breeze helps alot, unfortunately I was using a mig, so the amount of breeze (a fan in my case) had to be slight or you blow the gas envelope from the torch around the weld. Obviously it needs to be ground back where your welding to get a good clean service to weld. If you can avoid it, I would, but you won't die (immediately heh) from it, but it really is sickening to breath. Lone Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 28, 2000 Share Posted December 28, 2000 Years ago when I welded regularly, there was this primer (Grey in color) that was flame resistant and would seal metal BEFORE you welded. That stuff may have been determined as unsafe to use (This was back in the early 80's) so who knows... but it didn't burn off or blister and peal. Oh well...gonna have to do some more research. Pete, I'll be checking out your calk type sealer when I come up and check out your ride on Saturday! Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted December 28, 2000 Share Posted December 28, 2000 Update: Called one of my old classmates this morning and found that the stuff we used to spray is no longer available on the market. Apparently the fumes from the stuff were linked to cancer. Anyway, I'll figure something out... Just don't want to have to deal with a rust issue down the road... Mike ------------------ http://hometown.aol.com/dat74z/myhomepage/auto.html "I will not be a spectator in the sport of life!" mjk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLKMGK Posted December 29, 2000 Share Posted December 29, 2000 Heh, cancer in one form or another huh? I think I'd take rust over the other personally. Hell, I worry about all the buffing compound and aluminumstainless dust I've "consumed" in the past. Finding a good fitting dust mask is a bitch... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted January 8, 2001 Share Posted January 8, 2001 I knocked down the major areas of rust over the last week and sealed the front outter fenderwells. areas that weren't rusted I just slathered the stuff on with. I used 1/2 a quart on the two outer fenders and the tops of the fendermounting points. The stuff brushes on great if you use an ultrafine strand paint brush! One thing to mention though, I bought the semiglass black and when it dried, it was pretty much flat black. I wouldn't recommend it again, based on the additional cost and the fact that I'll be painting over it. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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