84 Turbo Fuel problem

[Kronic_Chronicles]

Drove the car to get my intake piping done, and the car ran out of gas. Now I can't get it to start again. Starts on ether, and checked the coil and plug wires so I know its not a spark problem. The pump primes and runs, filter is new along with lines. I checked for pressure after the filter, along with at the fuel pressure regulator, and i have pressure there, but still won't start.

 

I pulled parts off my wrecked 86 and started replacing stuff. Replaced coil, tps, fpr, crank angle sensor. Still wouldn't run. So I can codes, and got 8:

11 - Crank Angle Sensor

12 - Mass Air Sensor

13 - Cylinder Head Temp Sensor

14 - Speed Sensor (speedo cable broke so thats obvious)

23 - Throttle Valve Switch

24 - Neutral Safety Switch (assuming since I can start the car without pushing the clutch in, that this was failed and I don't plan on fixing it lol)

31 - Air Conditioning (removed so go figure)

41 - Fuel Temp Sensor

 

 

The car had a distributor in the hatch when I bought it, so obviously it had been changed at least once. I swapped between the one on the car, the one that was in the car, and the one in the wrecked car multiple times. Advanced and retarded the timing little by little with each with no changes in codes or performance.

 

 

 

Maf has chalk writing on it so I'm assuming its from a junk yard. I swapped the tps with the one on the wrecked car last week and it appeared to help. Fuel temp sensor broke on the fpr from the wrecked car, so I swapped the sensor from the turbo car into the fpr on the wrecked car when swapping. And I have not touched the CHTS. I should mention that I'm running a TD05H 16G and have multiple vacuum leaks, but the car would start up with these problems.

 

 

The car will run on ether, but won't even attempt to fire without it. It'll turn over all day long but will not fire. Cylinders are not getting fuel. Injectors? My multimeter was messing up so I used a test light and had constant power to both wires for the injectors with the key on and off. I'll check for voltage and resistance today when I get my meter working.

 

Injectors, ECU, or wiring is all I can think of. Yes, I know I have problems with the dizzy not being timed perfectly and it has vacuum leaks. I'm not wanting it to run perfectly yet, just want it to run so I can continue fixing other problems.

[roger.svoboda]

you mentioned everything but fuel pressure. either you have no fuel pressure or the ecu is not sending signal to open injector. You need a fuel pressure gage and a noid light. you need fuel, fire and air. Obviously if it runs on ether the missing thing is fuel all that ignition stuff is not the problem.

[Kronic_Chronicles]

I have not put a gauge on the fuel line before the rail to ensure that I have 30psi at idle, but I do have fuel coming out of the lines. The pump primes when key is turned on, and I can hear the pump shut off after attempting to start the car. Replaced filter with new z32 filter. I took the line off at the fuel rail (line between filter and rail) and primed the pump. Did the same to my wrecked car.

 

The turbo car had more pressure from the line than the wrecked car did. Wrecked car ran when parked. So I do not believe it is the pump. Filter is new so its not that, and the fuel looks good on the other side of the filter. Not clogged. I have a good flow coming out of the FPR so i know the rails aint clogged either. I swapped the FPR out with the one from my wrecked car, made no difference.

 

I've come to the conclusion that its the dizzy, wiring from dizzy to ecu, ecu itself, wiring from ecu to injectors, or injectors themselves. I have swapped the dizzy from the wrecked car (car ran when parked), so I don't believe thats my problem, although I'm not excluding it since I still threw a CAS code.

[Kronic_Chronicles]

Injectors checked out good resistance wise. The voltage going to them wasn't 12V...or my meter is screwed. Read anywhere from 9-20V. Anyway...after testing everything out and getting no where, I swapped ECUs with one from my wrecked car (86/87 NA). I got the car to fire up but wouldnt stay running. Figured this is because of using an NA computer and not a turbo computer. Sound like the ecu is fried is my assumption. Sound accurate?

[roger.svoboda]

put a noid light on the injectors and check the firing pulse instead of guessing they aren't expensive. The ecu you are using may not be compatible with your 84. Do a search. There is a problem with the O2 sensor for one thing and I seem to remember 86 to 87 was different so you need to know for sure what ecu you have. I know for a fact you can't use 86 with 84 or 85. They will start and run about three blocks then puke. why do you insist it is ignition when obviously you have fire in the cylinder or the engine wouldn't fire on ether. Use some common sense here it isn't black magic. Or if so you had better contact Gandolf.

[Kronic_Chronicles]

Lol, no its not magic. It was the injectors not firing. I know the coil works, it wasn't a problem of spark plugs not firing. And yes you were right about the ecu not working. I knew they wouldnt work running wise. It was just a test to see if the injectors were bad or computer had part to do with the problem.

 

$20 bucks for a noid light aint expensive but I'm strapped for money at the moment. As for the 86/87 ordeal, I honestly don't know what parts are 86 and what parts are 87. My wrecked car was manufactured in 11/86. It has the kouki body with a zenki engine set up. Numbers match up on her. But half the parts are zenki and half are kouki. Its not a chuki cause it has a full kouki front and rear body.

 

Anyways, I do appreciate your input. Ppl online have given me the ideas on what the problem could be along with different things to test, although I don't do things in the traditional book method. Its just the redneck in me lol