jacob80 Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 (edited) Hey guys, Well, I have my newest addition to my problems, and hopefully this is the root cause to the others. Here are my symptoms, beginning with the fuse blowing: 1. Well, ever since I don't know when, I've had trouble with starting. I'll turn the key to the on position and turning the key further into the cranking position and it would just click, then as I released and returned the key to the on position, which resulted in another click. "Click click" was the sound. Never any sluggish starter behavior, it either starts or just clicks as I described. This may be related, this may not. Maybe you can help. 2. At idle, my car will maintain fairly linear AFRs until warm up has disabled and then shortly after, my AFRs become VERY inconsistent and the car eventually is starved of fuel and dies. I can start the car again and it does the same thing. 3. I've been having an issue with resets in megasquirt, which show up in megatune. These resets are nothing that shuts my car down, but when watching megatune, the gauges "blip" for a split second, and you can tell that something has reset. This issue has not been resolved, and I have been in the process of trying to pin point my issue when all of the sudden, the next issue occured. 4. I'm blowing my fuse on the 12v+ side of my coil. I am using a blaster 2 coil via this wiring diagram: Here is what happens: Normally, when I turn the key to the "on" position (no cranking), the fuel pump primes for ~2 seconds and shuts off. Everytime the fuse on the coil blows, the fuel pump will stay on constantly, no matter what. This is where it gets weird...I notice that it is staying on and turn the key to the off position, and the fuel pump stays on for ~2 seconds AFTER I have turned the key completely off and following the ~2 seconds after the key is off, the fuse on the coil + side blows (I see a flash from the fuse) and the fuel pump turns off immediately. Now, the first thing that comes to mind is perhaps the relay is stuck/bad? Perhaps something on my relay board has soldered together and arced something? All wire connection seem fine, I have checked continuity of the wires from the coil to the relay board and they seem fine. Any help is appreciated, thank you AGAIN!! Here is my MSQ: http://www.mediafire.com/?hjnzgyz2jgz Edited February 24, 2010 by jacob80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 24, 2010 Author Share Posted February 24, 2010 Additionally, I've also replaced my vb921 with the Bosch upgrade. Not sure if this is relevant. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamH Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 Try a different coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 24, 2010 Author Share Posted February 24, 2010 Try a different coil. Can you support this suggestion? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamH Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Can you support this suggestion? I think it's possible that you may have damaged your coil at the same time you damaged your old coil driver. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 (edited) I think it's possible that you may have damaged your coil at the same time you damaged your old coil driver. Well my coil has a 10 amp inline fuse on the positive post, so what kind of damage could have occurred? Edited February 25, 2010 by jacob80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CamH Posted February 25, 2010 Share Posted February 25, 2010 Well my coil has a 10 amp inline fuse on the positive post, so what kind of damage could have occurred? You don't think it's possible that you damaged your coil by over charging it or over heating it due to having too high of a dwell setting? I don't think that it would necessarily have been saved from this by having a fuse inline with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 25, 2010 Author Share Posted February 25, 2010 (edited) You don't think it's possible that you damaged your coil by over charging it or over heating it due to having too high of a dwell setting? I don't think that it would necessarily have been saved from this by having a fuse inline with it. Good point. But, what if, my dwell settings are optimal and the coil resistance on both windings check out okay? If this is the case, I would like to start looking at my fuel pump relay. I have a feeling it may be causing a voltage spike when it disengages which is blowing my fuse, but then again, why is the fuel pump staying on after the key is turned off in the first place?... Edited February 25, 2010 by jacob80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 (edited) Okay, so here are my test results: Margin MSD calls for: Primary Winding: [.6825, .7175] OHMs of resistance Secondary Winding: [4.3875k, 5.6125k] OHMs of resistance My Results: Primary: .9 OHMs Secondary: 5.021K OHMs Looks like my primary winding may be shot. I'm a little leery of these results because when I simply touch my fluke leads together, I'm getting .2 OHMs of resistance. Should I add this to my numbers, or has MSD already compensated for the resistance of the multimeter (fluke)? Edited February 26, 2010 by jacob80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 (edited) Okay guys, just went out and tried a few things, and now my fuse isn't blowing (yay!). Here is what I did thus far: A) I feel stupid, but all three of my dwell settings were set to 0, so I changed those to: Crank Dwell: 3.0 Running Dwell: 2.9 Minimum Discharge Period: 0.5 B ) Grounded my distributor to my intake manifold (this is most likely negligible, but I did it). C) Replaced my blaster 2 coil with the stock coil off my '72. I popped the fuse in and turned on the key and the pump primed as it should for two second and no blown fuse! I'm still having starter problem But I think it may be the starter, because I am getting 12.5v to the solenoid in cranking mode. Lately, the solenoid click has become a little more faint, so I'm thinking its the starter, better than wiring issues I suppose! I'll keep you updated, I'm waiting for my battery charger to put a good surface charge on the battery, this is the only way it will turn over after "clicking." I'll keep you guys posted! Edited February 26, 2010 by jacob80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 26, 2010 Author Share Posted February 26, 2010 Hey guys, Just letting you know, the car is running great! Not only is it running great, I'm notgetting any resets! I know this because the SecL counts up to 255 and starts over, everytime! I was extremely proud when I extracted this garage queen for the garage and got a couple gallons of fuel. I cannot describe the feeling of this car finally coming back to life after a months messing with my inition module, megatune settings, blowing fuse, "sticking" HP fuel pump, and the coil. I would first of all like to say thanks to you guys, I have learned more trough this car that I have anything. HybridZ rules! I do have another question. Although I did swap out the coil, my dwell setting were all at 0 (as you know) before the problem went away. My question is: Is my coil bad, or was it because the dwell settings were not set? I did test the coil primary winding at .9 OHMs, but I'm still curious as to if this was truly the problem. Could these setting have been blowing that fuse, or is it definitly my coil? Thanks again fellas! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted February 26, 2010 Share Posted February 26, 2010 I can answer one question. If you expect .7 ohms for the primary and your meter leads measure .2 ohms when touching them together, then you will add the numbers. So .9 ohms for the primary sounds correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted February 28, 2010 Author Share Posted February 28, 2010 I can answer one question. If you expect .7 ohms for the primary and your meter leads measure .2 ohms when touching them together, then you will add the numbers. So .9 ohms for the primary sounds correct. Well, I guess I have a coil or the other car then. Let me start by saying my car is running absolutely amazing compared to what I was. My starter issue has been resolved by installing a new starter. I am no longer getting megasquirt resets. I am able to analyze graphs and have great results when accepting new tables. I would like this to be a troubleshooting guide for others that may have this problem as well. My next step is to figure out how to make autotune work and figure out a good AFR table. Thank you everyone who contributed to this thread, I cannot thank you enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvannly Posted March 1, 2010 Share Posted March 1, 2010 congrats! I know the feeling, enjoy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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